[xxfile]

Where is the thermastate housing?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Use any engine ground.

[xxfile]

All right, let me try again

[xxfile]

So yeah, it's the yel/grn wire, the terminal on the right, I press the black lead of the multimer into it, and check it against ground (using red terminal), I have a negative voltage. Does that indicate a bad ECM? Because when I try to jump for the CEL code, the CEL stays on. But why am I still getting spark?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You hooked the leads up backwards.

[xxfile]

No, I have the multimeter with me here, it's correct...

[povkham]

Where is e c m locate

[TxGreaseMonkey]

povkham, this should help:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

[gerrythrash]

Hello txgreasemonkey...
I did a Google search on the problem I'm having with my Honda Civic and ran across this thread. I hope you can offer some insight. My 95 Civic has 326,000 miles on it. I know that's a lot, but I'm out of work right now, and can't afford a new car... so I need to try and keep this one going, especially to help me with in my job search. Anyway... it cranks... but won't start. I had it towed to a repair place... and they told me the distributor failed. So I later put in a new distributor... and new spark plugs, plug wires and did a tune up. When I try to start it... it still cranks but won't start. It sounds like it wants to start... but something isn't happening. I read this thread about the ECM... so I'm wondering if that could be it. The check engine light is not on... and when I just turn the ignition switch on... the engine light goes out after a couple of seconds. Do you think I should test the ECM? What else should I test for?

Thanks for any advice you can give.
Gerry

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Test all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or mult-imeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Be very thorough in testing EVERY fuse, since it will save a lot of time and money.

. Ensure you can hear the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II).

. Clean the main ECM ground (brass connector), located on the thermostat housing.


gerrythrash, since the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), the ECM is likely okay. If the problem persists, after performing the steps above, I would focus on the distributor, even though you've had a new one installed. We have had many problems with new after market distributors for Hondas. After market Ignition Control Modules and coils are fine, but the problem is with the distributor housing--likely with the internal sensors (CKP, CYL, and TDC). I would take the distributor back and try and get another one. I only recommend genuine Honda distributor housings.

[gerrythrash]

Thank you so much for the information. I'll check the fuses and see what I come up with. It's a brand new distributor I put in... so I'll be bummed if that's the problem, since I ordered it through an online auto parts seller, and would have to go through the trouble of packing it and sending it back. I'll let you know what happens.

[gerrythrash]

Thank you so much for the information. I'll check the fuses and see what I come up with. It's a brand new distributor I put in... so I'll be bummed if that's the problem, since I ordered it through an online auto parts seller, and would have to go through the trouble of packing it and sending it back. I'll let you know what happens. One thing I don't understand, however. You suggest checking all the fuses. So if a fuse that has nothing to do with the ignition system (cooling fan fuse, for exampe) goes, that can cause this crank/no start problem?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

I'm quite sure the problem is with the distributor, if everything else checks out okay. On my 1993 Civic, I purchased just the distributor housing from Honda and installed an aftermarket ICM and coil. That was almost 8 years ago.

Regarding the fuse question, the answer is no. Since it's so easy to check everything with a test light or multi-meter, why not test everything? The prime fuse for your car starting is the ACG (S) (ALT) fuse, in the under dash fuse/relay box.

I'm virtually certain the problem is with your new distributor. Be sure to keep me posted.

[gerrythrash]

Thanks again. I'll let you know what I come up with.

[gerrythrash]

Hi again TxGreaseMonkey...

So here's the thing. I bought a testing light and tested the fuses. All the ones in the under-hood box are fine. But... in the fuse panel under the dash, NONE of them work. Not one. And I know that ACG fuse is there. But here's the weird thing. The headlight fuses are there also, and if I turn the lights on, they still work. So I'm wondering if the main relay or some other relay could be the culprit.

Your thoughts?

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Sounds like your ignition switch is bad. Check it for wear, pitting, and melting:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post224652

The flow is positive battery terminal, under hood fuse box, ignition switch, under dash fuse/relay box. I think that says it all. From the fuse check, I now think your ignition switch is the culprit. Should be an easy fix.

This is why I keep harping on checking fuses with a test light or multi-meter, where you are testing for power through the fuse. A simple visual inspection of the fuses would not have uncovered the problem.

Good job!

[gerrythrash]

Hmmm... that's interesting that you say that. This past December, my car was stolen, and when I got it back, the ignition switch was totally screwed up... Icouldn't get the key to turn it. So I had it towed to a Honda dealer, and paid them $500 to put in a new ignition switch assembly. It worked fine for about three weeks, then when I went to start it, it cranked but wouldn't start. Also, incidentally, during this three weeks, I noticed the SRS light would stay on. So I'm wondering if all of that is related. So this is a relatively new ignition switch.

I'll check it out. Thanks again.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Go back and check the 50A (IG) fuse in the under hood fuse box. IG means it goes to the ignition switch. Turn the ignition switch to ON, and touch the test light to the screws on each end of the fuse. It should also have a window for you to examine.

Clean the main ground. Ensure your test light was clamped to a good ground, when you checked the fuses in the under dash fuse box.

[gerrythrash]

Hi again... so check this out. I just went down to check the ignition switch. I completely took out the lower cover, and all the panels. Just for fun, I retested the fuses on the under-dash fuse box (thinking I could get a better angle at the fuses). So... all of the fuses are fine... except Nos. 7, 9, 11 and 13. Fuses 7 and 9 are the headlight low beams, 11 is for the taillight, instrument panel and license plate light... and 13 is the starter signal. I replaced them with spare fuses, and they don't work. I then put one of those fuses in a slot (matching the amps) that had a fuse that worked, and the replacement ones also work. So what do you make of that?

[gerrythrash]

I also checked the 50A ignition fuse under the hood... it's fine.