
Originally Posted by
21boat
For proper adjustments for any chain saw as you tighten the screw lift up the chain and start to pull the saw off the ground. If the chain guides lifts out of the bar slot but not completely out then its the right tension.
If your tightening the cover nuts while still holding tension, I'd say your following the same procedure.

Originally Posted by
21boat
Hi fellas. A lot also depends on the wood you are cutting. Last year I started to burn up a chain/bar because of the chain being to snug. factory set/manual New Husk..The saw works to hard that snug.
Agreed, with the "Bar" method, I have noticed one has to leave the chain a little looser to achieve the proper tensioning.
Maybe it's a mechanical "thing" with crigby and me, but it just "feels" better with the bar at a higher angle.
I posted a new thread 'bout the new to me, "adjust built into the bar" I can't get any lift outa' that bar.

Originally Posted by
21boat
My tree cutters like to file down there rakes to cut faster. My adjustments seems to work on all our saws. I'm going to try the reverse here just to see how it goes.
:cool:
Ok guys, stand back.....stand back......Boss gonna' test new cutter :D

Originally Posted by
21boat
I still have a 24" John Deere I bought in 79 thats wearing me out.
Now, that's a lotta bar oil!

Originally Posted by
21boat
Nice! How long have you had yours?
K