[Just-This-Guy]

Hey everyone.. I'm just wanting someone to look at my work and let me know its OK. I know I could have just put the GFI in the other panel, but the box and breaker came free with the hot tub and I needed to use the sub panel to also power the garage since the main one was full..

Its not quite finished yet, but I'd like to know if it looks right now before I continue.. Thanks in advance... :)

I'm also wondering if the Blue Wire coming out of the TECK cable is the same as the white wire.. Thanks again.

[tkrussell]

Are you in Canada? That is where TECK cable is often used. The blue may be used in place of white there, I believe. The blue may need to be re-labeled to white.

I think the blue should connect to a neutral lug on the GFI breaker, very close to the pigtail. The white pigtail is correct connecting to the neutral bar. But without the neutral load (blue) connected to the GFI, the breaker has nothing to reference. And will not operate properly.

Otherwise it appears to be fine.

[KISS]

I looked at the Mike Holt site and there was a post there that SOME 2 pole GFCI breakers do not have a neutral lug, but do have a pigtail. I suspect this is the case here.

If it is and the Hot Tub uses neutral, then the GFCI should pop immediately when a 120 V load is utilized.

[tkrussell]

The 2 pole GFI breakers that do not have a neutral connection are 240 volt rated only, for loads that do not have a neutral.

For loads that have a neutral, a 120/240 volt rated breaker is needed, and will have a neutral lug on the breaker near the pigtail.

[Just-This-Guy]

Thanks everyone for your time. Here is a picture of the GFI. If I'm understanding everyone, I'm to connect the blue wire to the screw above the pigtail. It just seems that if the pigtail is supplying power for the blue wire, it's not thick enough..

[KISS]

Yep, Load neutral goes to the SPA. Remember that neutral carries the difference current between L1 and L2. If you have a 30 A 240 load, then N carries nothing.

If you have a 120 load of 10 A to L1 and a 20 A, 120 V load to L2 and a 15 A 240 load using L1, L2, you have:

L1=10+15=25 A, L2=20+15=35A, L2-L1 = 35-45 or 10 amps.

If you don't put Load Neutral there, the breaker will immediately trip.

[Just-This-Guy]

Ok, As you can see from these pictures most of the work is done. Yay! Just one final question.. In the last picture is my main panel. But there is no way I can put this big of white wire under that screw. I see inside the case that the ovens white wire has been put into a single strand of some heavy gauge wire. Is that what I must do? Or is there something else I should be doing.

[KISS]

What you need is a screw lug connector. This is by no means the only type: SCREW LUG CONNECTOR, #6-4/0 AWG, 3/8" HOLE, DOUBLE BARREL - Connectors & Terminal Blocks - Electrical Distribution Parts - Electrical

More like this one:

IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC. - Powr-Connect™ Single-Hole Solderless Lugs for Copper Conductors (Offset)

Just get the stud size and wire size right.

[Just-This-Guy]

Fantastic.. Thank you so much for your help.. If your ever coming to visit Canada bring your swim suit, your invited over to bask in the glory of my new hot tub.. :)

[KISS]

1. Need vacation (1 down)
2. Have invite (2 down)
3. Have Passport (3 down)

:D

[Just-This-Guy]

I'd offer to bring you out, but this little project has blowen my budget by over $1000.. Mind you, puncturing the gas line while digging the trench didn't help.. that will be a costly repair.. Sigh.. But at least the power is done now.. The inspecter came buy today and said it looked very pretty, just fix two things and connect it to the tub. Then we went outside and he said "you can't put that there!" "thats a huge safety issue.. Those over head lines have to be at least 4.5m away... This is pissing me off and I'm not sure it will ever be finished..

But come on down when its done.. :-)