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NITRO-BTU · Jun 14, 2009, 08:22 AM

Hello People, I have a KITCHEN AID gas dryer Model # KGYE660WAL1, and need to check for electricity to all connectors. The drum turns, but there is No heat. I have checked the "igniter" for continuity / its bad... open circuit. However, trying to check all the other connectors has failed me. ALL CONNECTORS INDICATE an open circuit, when tested with a 110v line checker. YES the dryer is plugged in, and the drum is turning. Also, I have bypassed the thermal fuse using a blade type auto fuse.
WHAT AM I DOING WRONG, and where do I go from here?
ANY, and ALL SUGGESTIONS are Welcome. Thanks-To-All, Nitro.

PS. The dryer is now 16 years old, having only replaced the thermal fuse once, several years back.

donf · Jun 14, 2009, 09:38 AM

I don't understand your diagnostics.

How are you testing for continunity? Do you have the proper fuse in the unit? If not then put the proper fuse in. Turn power off before you change the fuse.

Do you have a multi meter? If not, please get one. Set the meter on 1K Ohms. Place the black probe on the Power Supply end of the fuse. Chech for continunuty across the fuse. If it is good then move the black probe to the frame ground and using the schematic follow the circiut through looking for ground shorts.

NITRO-BTU · Jun 15, 2009, 04:15 AM

Originally Posted by donf

I don't understand your diagnostics.

How are you testing for continunity? Do you have the proper fuse in the unit? If not then put the proper fuse in. Turn power off before you change the fuse.

Do you have a multi meter? If not, please get one. Set the meter on 1K Ohms. Place the black probe on the Power Supply end of the fuse. Chech for continunuty across the fuse. If it is good then move the black probe to the frame ground and using the schematic follow the circiut through looking for ground shorts.

Hello donf, I thought I was quite clear, but apparently not. Let me say that the electrical igniter is bad, and that the connectors to the igniter[VIA] DO NOT indicate any power. The fuse thing is simple. I removed the original fuse, and used an automotive blade style to complete the circuit. The small blades on the fuse mate with the electric connector just fine. This fuse has been working great for months... however, it is not "Thermal." I have a couple of multi-meters, and test lights.
WHAT SAY YOU about the connectors ? Nitro.

Just an hour ago, Still searching on line sites for info... ME/MYSELF/and I Discovered that the Electrical connectors in Question are low voltage, 1 to 3v. Is this AC/or DC voltage... THIS IS ANYONE'S GUESS ! If this TROUBLESHOOTING site is correct, then No wonder my light did not light, Dah! NOBODY KNEW THIS?
P.S. WOULD ANYONE ELSE LIKE TO GIVE THIS A TRY ?

Stratmando · Jun 15, 2009, 05:56 AM

Follow the circuit through from line in, to the igniter. With voltage, not continuity.
Also while drum is turning, measure across thermals, should read voltage to ground but no voltage across the 2 terminals if thermal is closed.

With power off, you should be able to follow continuity, if looking for opens.

donf · Jun 15, 2009, 05:56 AM

Nitro,

I'm sorry you disagree with my suggested diagnostic path. However, you have a very great advantage over me. You can see what you have in front of you, I cannot.

Regardless of that, my diagnostic path is a correct path.

Did you replace the igniter yet? Do you have the schematic of the dryer handy? Can you scan it and e-mail it to me at [email protected]?

BTW - here is my reasoning. Either the igniter failed because of age or something else failed in the circuit that took the igniter and fuse out.

Therefore, I would normally disconnect the dryer from the electrical source and start searching the circuit for a ground fault, you know like a wire that rubbed to long against a frame and then grounded itself.

Anyway, so sorry I responded to the question and caused you aganst.

donf · Jun 15, 2009, 06:26 AM

Strat,

I'm inferring from his last posting that he has already done that.

If the fuse is connected with the failure of the igniter, then something took both out at the same time. That tells me there is a short in the circuit. To me the safest and easiest way to find the short is to use an Ohm meter and step through the circuit until I find the path to ground from a voltage carrying circuit.

To do this with power on opens you up to causing the short while you are looking for it and getting shocked.

Also, I would make sure I disconnected the gas source while I'm playing around on the circuit. No sense blowing up by causing a spark at the wrong time.

Nitro- would you consider posting a picture of the circuit in question? Also it would be nice to know whether the fuse failure is related in any way to the installation of the igniter.

Also, I still suggest that you replace the fuse with a fuse that is designed for your circuit. Using the automotive fuse may be masking circuit failures.

NITRO-BTU · Jun 15, 2009, 12:20 PM

First to Strat, The 1 or 2v reading I got was across the terminals. When checking from a terminal to gnd, What voltage should be there ?
Second to Don, The fuse Im talking about is a thermal which blew months ago. I replaced it with the auto blade type, and it seems to work good, knowing I have No Thermal protection now. The fuse is still good, so it Did Not take out the "igniter."
I looked at the schematic, and it shows 2 temperature sensors inline [series] with the thermal fuse. I checked both sensors at room temp, and they are a closed circuit. THERE IS NO BREAK IN THE ELECTRON FLOW.
The timer runs out, but doesn't turn off the dryer on the "auto cycle," probably because the clothes aren't dry. However, the timed cycle does shut off, even when the clothes are still wet.
MY QUESTION TO ANYONE WHO KNOWS FOR CERTAIN, What Voltage do the 2 coils operate on for the gas valve, the igniter, and flame sensor?

THANKS PEOPLE for your help, and concern. Sincerely, Nitro.

Stratmando · Jun 15, 2009, 12:28 PM

How is the Gas sensor?:
338906 Whirlpool Gas Dryer Sensor $22.36
Also, type in your model in the search box for other parts if needed.

NITRO-BTU · Jun 15, 2009, 01:00 PM

Originally Posted by Stratmando

How is the Gas sensor?:
338906 Whirlpool Gas Dryer Sensor $22.36
Also, type in your model in the search box for other parts if needed.

Strat, How do I check the gas sensor ? I thought everything was checked except for the timer. What about the voltage that turns-on the coils... Do you know what voltage is required? Thanks, Nitro.

Stratmando · Jun 15, 2009, 01:08 PM

Still looking.

Stratmando · Jun 15, 2009, 01:17 PM

Here is come more parts, they also have the coils for the solenoids. Do they test OK?
Also scroll down to Dryers:
http://fixitnow.com/faq.htm#dryers

donf · Jun 15, 2009, 05:35 PM

Nitro,

If you can get us a clear copy of both the schematic and wiring diagram then we can tell you what the voltage.

With power on and the gas off, if you back up from each terminal point to the next point in the circuit and measure with a meter you should quickly find the points in the circuit where the voltages change. Then you start looking really hard at the circuit as it moves back to the terminal point.

Are the sensors Low heat and high heat? I would expect that they would only use a trickle voltage. The sensors will open and close based on the heat. High heat will certainly kill the flame and will not allow any flame until the temperature lowers.

Most of the water heaters I've worked on will only use about a millivolt. The only way I've caught that small of a pulse is with an O scope.

I would work the High Heat sensor by hand with an Ohm meter and make sure that it physically opens and closes. Then I would try it under power and verify that you see a status change on the sensor.

I know it is a silly question, but you have verified that the dryer is getting gas, correct? :)

NITRO-BTU · Jun 16, 2009, 06:40 AM

Strat look no further, I believe your Correct. Probing a terminal, and gnd. Gave me 110v on the blue lead going into the burner assembly, but nothing on the red lead.. . From the solenoid coils out to the flame ignitor, both leads white, and black read 110v. So, the "red" lead was the only one that has no voltage when probing from a terminal to gnd. Does this make sense to you? Please advise, Thanks, Nitro.

donf · Jun 16, 2009, 06:46 AM

I'm out of here since I seem to unable to add any value to this post. :)

Good luck Nitro.

Stratmando · Jun 16, 2009, 07:08 AM

You say you have power to solenoids, do they appear to work(operate valve).
Did you have any luck on a schematic.
Coils have similar resistance?

NITRO-BTU · Jun 16, 2009, 01:24 PM

Originally Posted by Stratmando

You say you have power to solenoids, do they appear to work(operate valve).
Did you have any luck on a schematic.
Coils have simular resistance?

YES Strat, The connector to the coils has a blue, and red lead. The blue has power, but not the red. The way I first checked for voltage, was to probe the blue, and red together, but that method showed at best 1to 2v. So, I did as you suggested, and got the required 110v. I didn't try to power the coils to activate the valve, nor did I check Ohm's in the coils. I am not good with schematics. ALL CONNECTOR WIRES HAVE 110 VOLTS EXCEPT THE RED LEAD ! Thanks, Nitro.

NITRO-BTU · Jun 16, 2009, 03:01 PM

HERE'S THE LATEST... The flame sensor is good.. . As for the 2 coils, The Ohm's readings are as follows.
The Readings were taken on the 20K SCALE.
3 wire coil 1.35 & 1.90 ohms
2 wire coil 1.22 ohms
THE BALL IS IN YOUR COURT GUYS ! Thanks, Nitro.

Today 6/17, I found another fella on a different forum with the same ohm's reading for the 3 lead coil. However, his 2 lead coil had a "zero reading," which I believe means a short. He replaced the two coil set, and he was good to go ! Thanks, Nitro.