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19283 · Jun 10, 2009, 10:44 AM

Howdy fellers!

I'm gearing up to put in a tile shower and have a question, actually, two questions. Ground floor: Originally there was a fiberglass shower pan installed, which I have removed. Underneath the pan, obviously, is the drain pipe sticking up. The foundation has been removed around it roughly one square foot. I needed to cut the pipe down to replace it with the primary drain receptacle used in mud shower pans, so I discovered that the area around the pipe is simple sand/clay, so I started digging. I removed enough of the dirt to where the pipe just came loose from the section of pipe that leads to the trap, which actually worked out well, so now I don't have to cut it. It was never glued on. My first question is... is that normal? I planned on replacing the pipe in the same manner I found it, with the appropriate height adjustments made. I plan on using sand to pack around the new pipe up to the point of where I'm a few inches short of the foundation. From there, I planned on adding some rebar for structural support and cementing the rest so it is flush with the foundation. From that point, I can begin with the actual shower plan pre slope mud base, etc.

Does my plan sound solid? For lack of a better term?

Thanks

Milo Dolezal · Jun 10, 2009, 11:31 AM

Hi 19283: no, it is not normal. Plumber simply forgot to glue it in.

You don't have to use rebars to refill this 12"x12" void in concrete. You can just mix a bag of pre-mixed 2500 psi concrete and pour it in.

Pipe should be separated from concrete with plastic Pipe-Wrap. They sell them in rolls in Home Depot. This plastic leaves bit of slack around pipe so pipe won't break during seismic activities or house settling in general.

19283 · Jun 10, 2009, 12:49 PM

Thanks Milo!

I'll get right on it!

Mike

ballengerb1 · Jun 10, 2009, 02:28 PM

Hey Mike, can't help but notice you are doing a mud pan, ever done one before?

19283 · Jun 10, 2009, 02:41 PM

Hi Ballengerb1,

This will be my first. I am confident that I will do it "properly" as I feel like I have done all of my research in the forms of books, internet, etc. I'm going the "goof proof" way by using the Mark Industries kit (pre-pitch, quick pitch, and kirb perfect". That will hopefully ensure I get the proper slope, etc. I feel confident that I understand the steps involved in installing the membrane, cement board, etc , but if you have any knowldege you can share, I would be glad to listen! One can never know too much!

Thanks a bunch!

mygirlsdad77 · Jun 10, 2009, 03:34 PM

Great advice from Milo. And if Bob decides to come back, listen to him, as I believe mud pans are one of his many areas of expertise.

ballengerb1 · Jun 10, 2009, 04:25 PM

You are making a wise choice with the kit. Here how they still sometimes do one from scratch. How to Build a Shower Pan I never do a pan from scratch with kits and acrylic pans being so easy. I do wonder sometimes why some folks are still attracted to a mud pan. Here is another kit for your consideration http://www.schluter.com/143.aspx

Milo Dolezal · Jun 10, 2009, 05:30 PM

In my area custom made mud pans are preferable over other types. They really last for long time. We sometimes work on old craftsman houses in old Pasadena that were built in 1920's and they all have fully functional hot mopped pans.

In California you have to be licensed to do Hot Mop.

I guess the biggest advantage is that these pans can be of any size and shape. Also, you can customize the floor finish to match walls. They don't crack, discolor and/or don't sound hollow when water hits it.

We are presently working on a shower that measures 10' x 5' with 2 drains. It is curved / shaped like a liver. I cannot imagine trying to locate pre-made pan for this shower... :-D

When I built my last house, I also hot mopped my pan. However, I have to admit, my tileman swears by PVC liner...

ballengerb1 · Jun 10, 2009, 05:33 PM

Guess I am just working for more conservative remodelers.

19283 · Jun 10, 2009, 06:22 PM

Thanks very much for all of the advice guys. I feel like I have the knowledge to get the job done properly. As a hobby, I make cedar strip sea kayaks and canoes, so I can appreciate the concept of "water proof"!

mygirlsdad77 · Jun 11, 2009, 03:45 PM

Well, I would say between Milo and Bob, if you do have any further questions, your covered. Good luck on your project and please post a pic of the finished product. Always nice to see a job well done.

19283 · Jun 15, 2009, 02:05 PM

So far so good. I'll update as I get more pics!

Milo Dolezal · Jun 15, 2009, 02:53 PM

Replace that bottom 2"x 4" at the curb with treated member. Otherwise: looks nice and clean !

ballengerb1 · Jun 15, 2009, 08:25 PM

Agree with that Milo, good catch.

19283 · Jun 16, 2009, 05:21 AM

Wow... you are right. I took a leave of faculties when I put that in. I knew I was supposed to use treated and forgot anyway! (I hope that's the last thing I foul up!) Must have been all the nervous antipation of putting the pre-sloped floor in :)

Thanks again for all of the excellent help and commentary guys!