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    mdotjames's Avatar
    mdotjames Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jun 14, 2009, 09:34 PM
    91 Honda Civic 1.5 not starting.
    Okay...
    Fuel pump good.
    Fuel pump relay good
    Main relay good.
    Fuel filter good.
    Injectors have been tested and are good.

    All of the above have been tested and are fine. Here are the rest of the details.

    When cranking the starter is firing... has spark... has air but fuel in not getting into the cylinders... as I said before the injectors are clean and work properly...
    Engine light is NOT on... all other lights (etc) work fine...

    Question is "What tells the Injectors to open up?"
    I have heard it might be... that the crankshaft sensor has gone bad?

    Car ran fine has 100k on a rebuilt engine (225K total)... parked it for about a month and now I have this problem... I am stumped...
    Thanks in advance!
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jun 15, 2009, 05:31 AM

    If the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. It's possible to have spark but it's sparking at the wrong time. In these situations, the problem is usually a bad ICM, coil, or distributor housing (bad CKP, TDC, or CYL sensors). If you replace the distributor housing, my advice is to only buy a genuine Honda assembly--too many other new aftermarket assemblies have not worked.
    mdotjames's Avatar
    mdotjames Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jun 15, 2009, 08:37 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    If the CEL comes on and goes off after 2 seconds, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. It's possible to have spark but it's sparking at the wrong time. In these situations, the problem is usually a bad ICM, coil, or distributor housing (bad CKP, TDC, or CYL sensors). If you replace the distributor housing, my advice is to only buy a genuine Honda assembly--too many other new aftermarket assemblies have not worked.
    Thanks... I have had a couple people mention the distributor but it is getting spark... my problem is that there is no gas getting to the cylinders... I think it is something that tells the injectors to fire...
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Jun 15, 2009, 08:47 AM

    This may help:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1245523
    mdotjames's Avatar
    mdotjames Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jun 15, 2009, 01:54 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    This may help:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...ml#post1245523
    It seems like all that is okay... not sure what the distributor has to do with fuel making it into the cylinders...
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Jun 15, 2009, 04:10 PM

    Okay...
    Fuel pump good.
    Fuel pump relay good
    Main relay good.
    Fuel filter good.
    Injectors have been tested and are good.

    All of the above have been tested and are fine.
    What I'm saying is that I'm skeptical it's a fuel-related problem. It has been my experience that many mechanics are quick to assume it's a fuel-related problem, when 90% plus of "crank but won't start situations" are electrical-related. If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), and during this period you can hear the fuel pump run and the main relay clicks on and off, the odds are very high there's a problem with the distributor. Remove a spark plug and see if you see and smell unburned gas.

    If you still think it's fuel-related, attach a gauge and check the fuel pressure. The ECM controls the injectors and I think your ECM is fine.
    mdotjames's Avatar
    mdotjames Posts: 5, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jun 15, 2009, 04:55 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey View Post
    What I'm saying is that I'm skeptical it's a fuel-related problem. It has been my experience that many mechanics are quick to assume it's a fuel-related problem, when 90% plus of "crank but won't start situations" are electrical-related. If the CEL comes on and goes off normally, when you turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II), and during this period you can hear the fuel pump run and the main relay clicks on and off, the odds are very high there's a problem with the distributor. Remove a spark plug and see if you see and smell unburned gas.

    If you still think it's fuel-related, attach a gauge and check the fuel pressure. The ECM controls the injectors and I think your ECM is fine.
    I agree with you... I am 100% sure it is electrical... just not sure if it is some sort of sensor or something... I have checked the wiring and seems okay... Just like you mentioned the CEL comes on 4 2 seconds then goes off... ECU fuse is good...
    When I remove the SP there is no smell of gas... or exhaust from the tailpipe...
    Thanks for your help... should I replace the distributor?
    The car is all stock... and bought new off the lot in 1991
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #8

    Jun 15, 2009, 05:39 PM

    Before doing anything, I would carefully test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

    After that, I would likely install a new ICM and coil in your current distributor. If the problem persisted, I would buy a new Honda distributor housing and install the new ICM and coil from your current distributor. All of this is to try and keep the cost down.
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