[Blueforester]

Read the previous thread by PB21 but decided to start a new one as I have the boat house, but house is coming later.

I'm finishing boat house and I want to pull service wire through electrical conduit (2") I installed underneath that is stubbed out to a storage room under the staircase which is where I plan to put a sub panel.

I will have:

2 boat lifts rated 30 amp each
Water pump 30 amp start up
12 outlets, battery chargers, small appliances, fridge, TV, stereo etc.
Security and other misc. lights.
Plan to add a 3rd personal h2o craft lift in future.

Questions:

1. What size panel, type?

2. What size service wire? Plan to run direct bury starting 5' behind seawall. Run will be somewhere around 200'-250' to house.

[tkrussell]

I guess with 78 views of this post, your wondering why still no answer.

You can do your own voltage drop calculations here:

Voltage Drop Calculator

Long distance feeders are a problem, esp trying to deliver 120/240 volts this distance of 200 to 250 feet.

First off, 50 foot difference is too much, provide one distance that is accurate.

Sizing the ampacity of the panel is a problem, as we need to know more detail from the list of loads you provide, and what would be the max load in amps at any one time.

The size panel is somewhat irrelevant until the max load is determined.

I suspect that a 100 amp panel and feeder will be fine.

However to size the feeder conductor is the issue to insure there is 120/240 volts +/- 3 % at the panel with such a long feeder.

The amount of voltage drop will be completely dependent on the max amp load.

You have 2 in conduit to deal with, which should be large enough.

What do you want to use, copper or aluminum wire? Copper wire can be smaller than aluminum, but you need to be ready to afford to purchase this length of wire. Aluminum is cheaper, will need to be larger compared to the same ampacity copper wire.

What is the voltage of the loads?

Using the calculator I provided, you can enter assumptions of the various data.

For example, if you need 30 amps of 120 volt loads,which I think is a reasonable assumption, at 250 feet, you will see that #1/0 aluminum will be needed.

This brings up another issue. If you use a 100 amp rated panel, the termination connectors will not be large enough to handle the large wire needed to reduce the voltage drop, so some method of reducing wire size at both ends will be needed.

Or you can use a 200 amp rated panel, will have larger wire connectors to accept the larger wire feeder, and protect it with a 100 amp breaker.

First need to make a decision on what the max load amps at what voltage to begin sizing this long feeder.

[stanfortyman]

I'm finishing boat house and I want to go ahead and pull service wire through electrical conduit (2") I installed underneath that is stubbed out to a storage room under the staircase which is where I plan to put a sub panel.

I will have:

2 boat lifts rated 30 amp each
water pump 30 amp start up
12 outlets, battery chargers, small appliances, fridge, TV, stereo etc.
Security and other misc. lights.
Plan to add a 3rd personal h2o craft lift in future.

I know I will get flamed for this, but I have to ask.

With all this, money is obviously not an issue. Why not just hire an electrician to come in and do the job right?

[Blueforester]

[/QUOTE]

I guess with 78 views of this post, your wondering why still no answer.
Thanks for reply. I was beginning to think I stumped the panel.

You can do your own voltage drop calculations here:

Voltage Drop Calculator

Long distance feeders are a problem, esp trying to deliver 120/240 volts this distance of 200 to 250 feet.

First off, 50 foot difference is too much, provide one distance that is accurate.

Currently working on site plan. Actually, roughly figuring I can probably reach w/ 142'

Sizing the ampacity of the panel is a problem, as we need to know more detail from the list of loads you provide, and what would be the max load in amps at any one time.

It is unlikely that both lifts, water pump, battery chargers and blenders etc. will all be on at the same time. My concern is having enough power available in case someone flushes the head while I'm raising my boat and the fridge comes on when someone is grabbing a beer out of the fridge!

The size panel is somewhat irrelevant until the max load is determined.

I suspect that a 100 amp panel and feeder will be fine.

What I was thinking about installing

However to size the feeder conductor is the issue to insure there is 120/240 volts +/- 3 % at the panel with such a long feeder.

The amount of voltage drop will be completely dependent on the max amp load.

You have 2 in conduit to deal with, which should be large enough.

What do you want to use, copper or aluminum wire? Copper wire can be smaller than aluminum, but you need to be ready to afford to purchase this length of wire. Aluminum is cheaper, will need to be larger compared to the same ampacity copper wire.

No preference. Which ever cost the least. It all works the same in end. I like the idea of running aluminum for the main run and tie in copper at junction boxes at the house and bank/seawall where the conduit is currently stubbed out

What is the voltage of the loads?

Everything is 120v except water pump which is 240v.


Using the calculator I provided, you can enter assumptions of the various data.

For example, if you need 30 amps of 120 volt loads,which I think is a reasonable assumption, at 250 feet, you will see that #1/0 aluminum will be needed.

This brings up another issue. If you use a 100 amp rated panel, the termination connectors will not be large enough to handle the large wire needed to reduce the voltage drop, so some method of reducing wire size at both ends will be needed.

Or you can use a 200 amp rated panel, will have larger wire connectors to accept the larger wire feeder, and protect it with a 100 amp breaker.

First need to make a decision on what the max load amps at what voltage to begin sizing this long feeder.

I'm almost certain max load will be < 100amps. I would rather have a little more than not enough.


I guess I do not have the specific information as I have not started the house yet.

I guess with 78 views of this post, your wondering why still no answer.
Thanks for reply. I was beginning to think I stumped the panel.

You can do your own voltage drop calculations here:

Voltage Drop Calculator

Long distance feeders are a problem, esp trying to deliver 120/240 volts this distance of 200 to 250 feet.

First off, 50 foot difference is too much, provide one distance that is accurate.

Currently working on site plan. Actually, roughly figuring I can probably reach w/ 142'

Sizing the ampacity of the panel is a problem, as we need to know more detail from the list of loads you provide, and what would be the max load in amps at any one time.

It is unlikely that both lifts, water pump, battery chargers and blenders etc. will all be on at the same time. My concern is having enough power available incase someone flushes the head while I'm raising my boat and the fridge comes on when someone is grabbing a beer out of the fridge!

The size panel is somewhat irrelevant until the max load is determined.

I suspect that a 100 amp panel and feeder will be fine.

What I was thinking about installing

However to size the feeder conductor is the issue to insure there is 120/240 volts +/- 3 % at the panel with such a long feeder.

The amount of voltage drop will be completely dependent on the max amp load.

You have 2 in conduit to deal with, which should be large enough.

What do you want to use, copper or aluminum wire? Copper wire can be smaller than aluminum, but you need to be ready to afford to purchase this length of wire. Aluminum is cheaper, will need to be larger compared to the same ampacity copper wire.

No preference. Which ever cost the least. It all works the same in end. I like the idea of running aluminum for the main run and tie in copper at junction boxes at the house and bank/seawall where the conduit is currently stubbed out

What is the voltage of the loads?

Everything is 120v except water pump which is 240v.


Using the calculator I provided, you can enter assumptions of the various data.

For example, if you need 30 amps of 120 volt loads,which I think is a reasonable assumption, at 250 feet, you will see that #1/0 aluminum will be needed.

This brings up another issue. if you use a 100 amp rated panel, the termination connectors will not be large enough to handle the large wire needed to reduce the voltage drop, so some method of reducing wire size at both ends will be needed.

Or you can use a 200 amp rated panel, will have larger wire connectors to accept the larger wire feeder, and protect it with a 100 amp breaker.

First need to make a decision on what the max load amps at what voltage to begin sizing this long feeder.

I'm almost certain max load will be < 100amps. I would rather have a little more than not enough.


I guess I do not have the specific information as I have not started the house yet.

[Blueforester]

The last post did not work as planned! Let me try again.


Originally Posted by tkrussell
I guess with 78 views of this post, your wondering why still no answer.


Thanks for reply. I was beginning to think I stumped the panel.

You can do your own voltage drop calculations here:

Voltage Drop Calculator

Long distance feeders are a problem, esp trying to deliver 120/240 volts this distance of 200 to 250 feet.

First off, 50 foot difference is too much, provide one distance that is accurate.

Currently working on site plan. Actually, roughly figuring I can probably reach w/ 142'

Sizing the ampacity of the panel is a problem, as we need to know more detail from the list of loads you provide, and what would be the max load in amps at any one time.

It is unlikely that both lifts, water pump, battery chargers and blenders etc. will all be on at the same time. My concern is having enough power available incase someone flushes the head while I'm raising my boat and the fridge comes on when someone is grabbing a beer out of the fridge!

The size panel is somewhat irrelevant until the max load is determined.

I suspect that a 100 amp panel and feeder will be fine.

What I was thinking about installing

However to size the feeder conductor is the issue to insure there is 120/240 volts +/- 3 % at the panel with such a long feeder.

The amount of voltage drop will be completely dependent on the max amp load.

You have 2 in conduit to deal with, which should be large enough.

What do you want to use, copper or aluminum wire? Copper wire can be smaller than aluminum, but you need to be ready to afford to purchase this length of wire. Aluminum is cheaper, will need to be larger compared to the same ampacity copper wire.

No preference. Which ever cost the least. It all works the same in end. I like the idea of running aluminum for the main run and tie in copper at junction boxes at the house and bank/seawall where the conduit is currently stubbed out

What is the voltage of the loads?

Everything is 120v except water pump which is 240v.

Using the calculator I provided, you can enter assumptions of the various data.

For example, if you need 30 amps of 120 volt loads,which I think is a reasonable assumption, at 250 feet, you will see that #1/0 aluminum will be needed.

This brings up another issue. If you use a 100 amp rated panel, the termination connectors will not be large enough to handle the large wire needed to reduce the voltage drop, so some method of reducing wire size at both ends will be needed.

Or you can use a 200 amp rated panel, will have larger wire connectors to accept the larger wire feeder, and protect it with a 100 amp breaker.

First need to make a decision on what the max load amps at what voltage to begin sizing this long feeder.

I'm almost certain max load will be < 100amps. I would rather have a little more than not enough.

I guess I do not have the specific information as I have not started the house yet.

[Blueforester]

I know I will get flamed for this, but I have to ask.

With all this, money is obviously not an issue. Why not just hire an electrician to come in and do the job right?

That's not a flame, but rather a good question. My wife ask me the same thing all the time. I'm a hardcore DIY. Do not mind doing the work, enjoy doing the work. But to your point, I'm confident I can "do it right." I'm seeking a good solution. I'm finishing up the major construction of the boat house and the wiring phase is coming up quickly. I ran across this website doing a little research and thought I would try it out. Reading through some of the post there are several that respond here that I can tell are actually very knowledgeable on this subject

[tkrussell]

Then I recommend you pull 3 #4/0 XHHW Aluminum for the two hots and one neutral and 1 #2 XHHW Al for the green equipment ground, use a 200 Amp rated panel and feed it with a 100 amp breaker at the main distribution point.

At the main #2 wire will need to be used to extend and reduce the #4/0 because it will not fit in the new 100 amp breaker.

[Blueforester]

Thanks! I think that is a great solution. I plan to install panel so I can begin running wiring for fixtures and make the connection for the water pump. I will probably pull service wire to panel and coil up the rest. When I get the site work started I plan to trench for utilities and lay in the serice line to the main at the house. As part of the electrical plan for my house I will include setting a 100 amp breaker at the main and making the reduction and connection.

Thanks again!