Check out some similar questions!

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 08:14 AM

Here is a picture of the trap I made. I have not glued it up yet, but there is not much room to change it. What are your thought about this? The trap goes right into a sanitary tee and then drops into a 90 which slants down to the main out. The vent is coming out of the top of that sanitary tee. I am wondering if I have inadvertently created a s-trap due to the space limitations? Let me know if this is OK? I don't want to move on till I get your feedback.

Also, when I tried to link two fittings, the length of 2 inch pipe I cut was a little to small, I think. I feel like the ends only went in 3/4 or a little less of the way into the hub. And then I had to push the entire length over about a 5 degree to get it to line up. Do you think that will hold up? The joints seem tight but I am not sure if this will leak in the future. What are your thoughts? I have enclosed a picture and circled the joints I question. They may be fine I really can't tell.

PS I know I did a sloppy job with the primer. What can I say. It runs everywhere and I have no idea how to control it. I am purple.

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 11:17 AM

What's your thoughts on the fittings that are potentially not pushed all the way in?

Thanks for all your help Tom!

massplumber2008 · May 29, 2009, 01:53 PM

Hey hey all...
'
jjustinia... that trap looks like it is roughed in too high above the floor to work on a regular tub. Are you building a platform..?

The center of the inlet to the trap also looks to be too far off the end wall (wall with tub/shower valve in it)... usually about 1.5" from face of stud to center of drain.

Tell me/us more about what you are installing.

Let me know...

MARK

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 04:56 PM

thanks! I agree the trap is not glues in yet. I have since chiseled the wood so I can pivot the sanitary tee to the right more and getting the back portion of the tee closer to the wall. I am installing a kholer bancroft whirlpool 5 foot tub. I am going to set it down on the floor no platform. When I glue the tee into the 90 going away from the tub the trap will probably drop a half an inch. I was also thinking the instead of using a street 90 to the trap I could use a hubed 90 and put an inch or two of pipe to drop the trap lower. The whirl pool has some room up front so I am not worried about the pipe neat the wall, but I am worried the mouth of the trap will be to high for the pipe to slip in. I was going to wait till I drop the tub in for a test before I glue anything more so I can adjust it all to the real plumbing of the tub. I was going to cut a 12 X 12 access panel in the wall behind the plumbing, it is a linen closet on the other side. I would really appreciate your input before I pour the mortor to set the tub so I am sure to do it correctly. Thank you Mark and Tom!

PS. I know I only needed to use 1 and a half but my wife's har cloggs the drain and I wanted the best drainage I could get.

Milo Dolezal · May 29, 2009, 05:54 PM

1. The vertical kitchen sink drain adapter should be above drain level.
2. There should be few inches of horizontal pipe between SanT and trap 90
3. It appears you reduced the trap to 1 1/4". That would not be correct for tub. I should be 1 1/2" adapter.

Looking at you pics , you are way too high with trap for tub installation. You installed the trap inlet on San T. You could have install Y in horizontal position, giving you few extra inches for connecting trap and tub overflow.

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 06:02 PM

The reason I did not do that is because then the trap drops too low and will not fit as it hit the sheet rock below it. There a finished basement below, so that is why I kept it up. I don't think the 90 coming out of the san tee will interfere with the tub it is the need to get the mouth of the p trap lower so it does not hit the tub drain asembly. At least that is what I am thinking. If I add some length to trap where it connects to the 90 it would go lower and I could control it precisely. There is a joist on the left where the pipes disappears and I have no access there. The pipe travels 2 feet before it re-emerges in the basements. I had to glue it all up and poke it through the hole. I had no room for any horizontal before the trap as it would push the mouth beyond the center line of the tub. How bad a problem is this??

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 06:06 PM

I figure if I get the tub to fit, its good. Am wrong about that?

I reduced it from 2 inch to 1 1/2.

Also nothing is glued so I can do anything after the 90 coming out of the joist. I welcome/need your help!

Also Milo, in your number 1. What are you referring to? This is a tub drain not kitchen drain. I have a 2 inch trap adapted down to 1 1/2 and then a slip nut connector. Is that not correct? Other than the fact that I went with 2 inches and not 1 1/2.

massplumber2008 · May 29, 2009, 06:13 PM

That trap adapter is 1.5".. so all set there.

Like Milo said, however, there are some issues that need to be addressed. The biggest problem I see is that to fix this you really need to cut into horizontal piping and that would probably mean cutting up more of that joist.. and that will not be a good thing!

I think you should dry fit the tub with the tub waste assembly in place so you can see what we are talking about...

The distance issue between sanitary tee and the trap 90 is required because when installed as close as yours it can allow hair/soap scum to build up and capillary action can occur and siphon the ptrap dry over time... not very healthy!

I know it is hard to believe this.. but there are so many rules.. so many reasons as you are seeing now!

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 06:31 PM

How about this? It is lower.

Milo Dolezal · May 29, 2009, 06:58 PM

BTW: thanks for posting these photos. They are great help and leave nothing to imagination...

I meant "drain adapter" . I don't know how the "kitchen" got there... :-D

I still think you are too high with all those adapters on the trap. You could remove them and use 1 1/2" All Rubber (grey) Flex Seal coupling. It will be lot easier to connect. See the pic...

Depending on how deep is the cavity of the tub - I still think the trap elbow and part of the SanT may interfere with the floor of the tub. They should be below the floor level...

( you can purchase this coupling in Home Depot for about $4.00 )

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 07:27 PM

Well I am sure as it is set up now the trap adapter is low enough. I looked at the tub. I am also sure the trap arm is going to be located in the cavity between the actual tub and the wall. The problem I am seeing, and please tell me I am wrong! is that because of the pipe I used to drop the trap the water level in the trap will go higher causing water to pool in the tub because the arch into the san tee is so high. Please tell me I am wrong about that thought!

I will take a pict of the tub cavity so you can see the room it is a fiber glass tub.

Milo Dolezal · May 29, 2009, 07:29 PM

Yes, your concern is valid. If the trap arm is located too high, you will have water standing in the drain.

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 07:54 PM

This is the back of the tub. I took the san tee and put the it and the trap arm at positions they would be in. it seems that it would fit below the jet tubes. In fact it is higher then where it would be when it is in the wall.

Milo Dolezal · May 29, 2009, 08:10 PM

Yes, it will be problem. Big problem. If installed as presented in the latest photo, water won't drain completely. You will have about 3" of water standing in the tub. The top of sanitary T has to be below the bottom of the horizontal overflow assembly drain. See the enclosed drawing...

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 08:19 PM

I am beginning to realize I have a big problem, as you say. I am going to have to rip out what I have already done and redo it. The real problem is the hot water line prevents me from getting the trap down. I am going to have to cut it and re-route it around the PVC. I placed the trap in there and that is what is really in the way. With the copper moved I can have the tee ley down and the trap arm can connect directly into it and the vent will come out of the tee. Can't see any other alt. is that a good plan?

Milo Dolezal · May 29, 2009, 08:30 PM

Besides: you are not using correct P-trap. What you have is P-trap 180 degree bend - but you are also using regular 90 ell connected with piece of PVC pipe. It is wrong. If you use regular trap, then it uses street / sharp turn 90 that glues directly into the 180 degree bend. You will save about 3" right there. See the pics...

Usually, we are able to fit the trap in w/o it extending below the ceiling. You can cut out that horizontal-to-vertical drain 90, make that hole in the joist bit larger (upwards), move the drain higher, than install Y, connect trap and than glue in 90 going towards the vent.

But it even looks like that with regular P-trap you won't have to drill bigger hole. It looks like it will fit...

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 08:37 PM

Here is a mock up of my new plan. Once I move the copper line I should be able to put this set up in. vent out the top and waste line into the joist on the left

Milo Dolezal · May 29, 2009, 08:44 PM

Yes, this is the plan ! I like you even used proper P-Trap ! Like it !

( It still looks to me that you are reducing all the way to 1 1/4'... )

If you REALLY want to reduce directly from the p-trap than get 2" x 1 1/2" Street Drain Adapter. You will eliminate one reducer from your present set up and safe an inch in the process...

jjustinia · May 29, 2009, 08:56 PM

Thanks, it will be a lot of work to redo, but then it will hopefully be correct. I took some pics to show that the adapter is 1 1/2 inches. You have to look carfefully at the sites the arrows are pointing at. Hopefullly everyone thinks this is the correct plan.

Thank you for your input and helping me to get this right. I hope!

Milo Dolezal · May 29, 2009, 09:00 PM

OK, OK, I believe you..! :D:D:D It is 1 1/2".

Maybe I can give you a hint on installation: Install Overflow on the tub first. Set the tub in place. Once tub with overflow is in place, install p-trap and connect with 2" drain in the floor. If it is in very tight place, you can use Flex Seal coupling to connect the drains.