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    spam59pa's Avatar
    spam59pa Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Apr 19, 2009, 12:04 PM
    Bracing concrete step forms
    We're going to add concrete steps outside patio door. There is already an existing patio and we need to know how to brace forms since we can't put any holes in concrete patio to brace the form. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.
    creahands's Avatar
    creahands Posts: 2,854, Reputation: 195
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    #2

    Apr 19, 2009, 12:15 PM

    Hi spam59pa

    What is width and height of new stairs?

    Need this info so we can give right answer.

    Thanks

    Chuck
    spam59pa's Avatar
    spam59pa Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Apr 19, 2009, 02:47 PM
    This is what my daughter wants so hope it makes sense..
    There will be 3 graduated steps 3 foot, 4 foot and 5 foot in length.
    They will be 12 inches deep and 7 1/2 inches tall. If you have any other suggestions please let me know.Thanks Pam
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #4

    Apr 19, 2009, 06:10 PM

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    spam59pa's Avatar
    spam59pa Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Apr 19, 2009, 06:59 PM
    We're a little confused on the drawing. The back piece(2x4) is it attached to the house? That's where the steps will go up against the house. After the cement is poured how do you remove the wood pieces or do they stay attached to the house?
    The way my husband was going to do it was put holes in the patio and put in re-bar and do each level separate from the other. Adding re-bar between each level. The sides he was going to brace by putting there 4-wheeler on the patio up against the form(4-wheeler has a blade on front)and brace it that way. On the other side he could put a brace between the form and the metal cellar way to brace that side. Hope this makes sense. Thanks for everyone's help. Pam
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #6

    Apr 19, 2009, 11:42 PM

    The 2x4 bracing is just there to hold up the end of the 2x8 and keep it from moving. If it can be attached to the house that help, but the pressure from each end should be equal and the ends of the 2x8 forms should not move while pouring. Remove froms after concrete has firmed up and trowel smooth with steel trowel.
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,441, Reputation: 212
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    #7

    Apr 20, 2009, 05:39 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ;
    Remove froms after concrete has firmed up and trowel smooth with steel trowel.
    Hi hkstroud. Above is not how its done sorry..
    Mag trowel the tops and then finish Steel trowel that after mag troweling sets up some, then brush.

    Finish trowel all tops ( treads ) of the steps first and use a dry or wet hoarse hair brush for texture. Then pull the riser forms and use water and a concrete orange sponge to finish the fronts and sides not a steel finish trowel. A marging trowel or a wide slicker could be used if there are honeycombs but the sponge does the finish on the sides after you pull the forms. . It would be very advisable to get a bag or Portland cement in case you have big honeycombs in the riser face after forms are pulled.


    If you are going 5 feet wide I would turn a 2x4 on its side to keep that from bowing so much. I would do them all that way and then have a place to put a kicker in the middle.

    Don't forget to angle cut the boards so you can get the trowel into the area where the riser and tread meet.

    To brace the angled kicker run it to the existing slab. From there run another 2x4 across the patio and to a place you can butt up to OR to then end where the dirt is and then a stake also.

    Spam59... The steps needs to be poured all at once!!

    A pic would be good. I form many of tough steps and job situation/concrete copings off walks etc.

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