Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    onemore's Avatar
    onemore Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Apr 6, 2009, 04:22 PM
    What's it worth
    1934 100$ federal reserve note
    Clough's Avatar
    Clough Posts: 26,677, Reputation: 1649
    Uber Member
     
    #2

    Apr 6, 2009, 05:54 PM

    Hi, onemore!

    Flying Blue Eagle is an Expert on this site who has the current documentation concerning the possible monetary value of such things. As such, I'm sure that he will be along eventually to address your post.

    In the meantime, and as per Flying Blue Eagle's request, it would be helpful if you would post the following information concerning the currency that you have. I know that you have already provided some of the information that is asked for in the quote that is below when posting your question.

    #1 - The denomination of the currency, such as $1.00, $2.00, $5.00, $10.00, etc.
    #2 - Series date - Examples: 1935, 1935A,1935B, etc.
    #3 - Signatures - Examples: Priest - Anderson or others.
    #4 - Color of seal and color of serial numbers. Is there a star before or after the serial number? If so, what color?
    #5 - What is written above on the very top of the currency? Examples: SILVER CERTIFICATE, Federal reserve note, treasury or coin note. Legal tender note, etc.
    What the paper money is worth monetarily will also greatly depend on the graded condition of it. Do you know what the graded condition of it is?

    If you might not, then what is below should be helpful to you. Flying Blue Eagle will also need to know what the possible graded condition of it is.

    What is posted below is quoted from the following site and is for paper currency. 1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money?

    1.9) How do you grade the condition of paper money?

    The condition of a note is critical to its value. Lowering the
    grade of a note one notch can decrease its value by 1/3 or even
    1/2. An expensive note which falls between two categories might
    be worth a thousand dollars more in the higher category than the
    lower one. Thus, it's often important to be more precise than
    using a limited number of categories.

    But here's a general guideline. Note that many dealers have
    slightly different grading systems, especially with various
    sub-grades of uncirculated. There's no official system of grading,
    unfortunately. But these are pretty much universally accepted.
    I've received a lot of input and tried to hammer out the best
    descriptions for each category.

    Crisp Uncirculated, UNC or CU: This means absolutely not the
    slightest sign of any handling or wear or folding or *anything*.
    Some people use additional grades to distinguish qualities such
    as perfect centering or other printing characteristics. Certainly
    a note which has centering problems which are visible from a
    distance of 1 meter (3 feet) should have this mentioned in the
    condition description.

    Almost Uncirculated (or About Uncirculated), AU: This means there
    is a slightly detectable imperfection such as a counting fold on one
    corner or slightest fold in the center (nothing which breaks the
    surface of the paper) or a pinhole. At first glance it looks like
    an UNC note.

    Extremely Fine, EF or XF: Generally three light folds or one strong
    fold which breaks the surface. There may be slight rounding at the
    corners.

    Very Fine, VF: May have several folds although the note is still
    crisp and has a minimum of dirt. There may be minor tears or very
    small holes but nothing which distracts from the overall appearance
    of the note. Take an uncirculated note and crumple it once in your
    hand, then flatten it out: this is a Very Fine note. Repeat the
    crumpling and it's still pretty much a VF note.

    Fine, F: A circulated note where individual folds and creases may
    no longer be visible. To distinguish this from a VF note, when
    inspecting a Fine note, it clearly does not look like a note which
    has merely been crumpled a few times: It doesn't have the crispness
    and brightness of a VF note. No tears may extend into the printing.
    This is your average in-the-wallet note.

    Very Good, VG: Tears and small holes can be present. The note is
    not crisp at all. The is your lower quality in-the-wallet note.
    Lots of people on the 'net don't realize that a note in "very good"
    condition is really pretty lousy.

    Good, G: Small pieces missing, graffiti. A worn out note.

    Fair: Major tears, etc. A badly worn out note.

    Poor: Even worse.

    To grade a note precisely, it can help to hold the note about
    20 cm (7 inches) under a strong light source (use the same source
    for comparing notes) and on top of a white piece of paper and
    use a 3x or 4x power magnifying glass. Make sure your hands are
    clean before handling a note. This method will show a lot of
    minor imperfections which are not normally visible.

    Note that note from many countries have standard features which
    exist for even Uncirculated notes. Some notes from Bangladesh,
    Bhutan, Burma/Myanmar, India, Nepal, and Pakistan are only found
    with staple holes where staples are always used to hold packs of
    notes together. Most dealers list Uncirculated notes of this type
    as having the usual staple holes (often abbreviated as uSH-UNC).

    Also, some notes printed in France (for about 15 different
    countries) have a slight crinkle effect.

    Thanks!
    Flying Blue Eagle's Avatar
    Flying Blue Eagle Posts: 2,056, Reputation: 225
    Ultra Member
     
    #3

    Apr 6, 2009, 08:08 PM

    onemore - clough gave you a site that you need to visit so you can give me some of the answers to my questions that i need to give you the exact answer you wan study the note on both sides and then look at the requirements that is needed for each condition and grade::i will also need the following answers;; #1-color of the seal::#2- one or both signatures::#3- the full name iof the issuing bank:: #4- the series date that is on the front side:: example- ( 1950;; 1950a;;1950b;1950e; ) ( ect) :: clough's post is above mine::( thanks clough<for the help}
    I will be waiting for your reply ;; you al have a great day and god bless ::f.b.e.

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

What's my old school stuff worth? [ 4 Answers ]

Hey guys, I'm just wondering how much some of my video game junk is worth, all right well there like all old school game stuff, please plug in the price that each of the items that you know is worth about- *how much is my n64 worth with no box but works excellent? -how much are the following...

What's my art worth? [ 1 Answers ]

Hi, I have a print or watercolor by Harry Leith Ross signed and I need to know if its real. I saw the original oil painting in a fine art gallery online. Please help me or point me in the right direction. I have one more by George Henry Durrie signed G.H.D. Farmyard, Winter. The Leith Ross...

1957 silver certificates, what's worth? [ 3 Answers ]

I have a 1957 & 1957a silver certificates. What are they worth?

1957B series silver certificate one dollar bill and a 1905 us penny what's it worth? [ 12 Answers ]

I have a one dollar silver certificate bill. 1957b series three folds no stains good conditions and just wondering if it had any more of value? Also I have a U.S one cent from 1905 very rare looking in great condition does it have any value?

What's it worth [ 2 Answers ]

I have a gold herring bone braclet that I've had for about 20 years, and not real sure of its quality or worth. The only marking I have found is an S stamped in the metal on ends where the clasps are. Can anyone tell me what the S stands for and what is its possible worth/value for the...


View more questions Search