[newjlb]

My 1950s house was built from materials salvaged from an old barn. Tells you how square everything is. My next project is to remodel the bathroom. It is 73" deep by 58" wide. The vanity, toilet and tub are in line on the right 73" wall which backs up to a bedroom closet (wall contains chimney then 50" deep 30" wide closet). I plan to move door from the left 73" wall to the right 73" wall and place the toilet where the door was. I found a small corner vanity to put opposite the toilet which will leave adequate room between them. I want to put a 48" shower in the closet area on the right wall. I have found a 3 piece shower that will work there or I am considering a tile shower. Presently the tub is imbedded in the wall on both ends (to make it fit in the 58" width). There is a cheap vinyl surround installed (They put a piece of sheet rock over the window which is now cracked so you can see the outline of the window). I have had a plumber I used to put a nice full bathroom in my basement look at the plan and other than wanting to raise the floor 1" to accommodate the toilet thinks the plan is doable. I plan on doing all of the other work myself as I did in the basement. The basement had a toilet in the area that we framed as a bathroom, but nothing else. We changed the direction of the toilet and added a vanity and a one piece 48" shower. I expected the cost to be about the same as this work that was done 3 years ago, but he wants $2400 for the labor and pipes. The basement was $1400. Does this sound reasonable? I will remove everything including all the drywall, so back to removing the tub. It appears to be two pieces, a tub and a front panel. There is a rather large assess panel in the closet to allow disconnecting everything and I do not want to reuse any of the fixtures. How do I tell what the tub is made of? If you rap on it is sounds like steel. If it is steel, can I cut it with a ripsaw with a metal cutting blade? Is there a better tool that I could rent to cut it? Or do they make cast iron tubs that would be 2 piece? If it is cast iron, I understand that I could just use a sledge hammer. I am not sure how to tell what it is made of. I am a 60 year old grama who has spent the last 8 years updating a little house that I can afford by doing it mostly myself with a little help on the heavy stuff like hanging the drywall and the complicated stuff like plumbing. The bathroom is going to require some financing, but I can't take 9 months to complete it like my other projects (pay as you go and do it while working full time). I have one last question. Could the toilet it self just be raise on a small platform that is just larger than the base of the toilet. I would like the seat to be 17" from the floor, so if I get a 14" toilet wouldn't a platform work? I would prefer not to have to deal with a 1" floor level difference into the hallway. Thank you for any input.

[speedball1]

Sure sounds like a steel tub with a plastic enclosure While we remove a cast iron tub in pieces we take out plastic and xsteel tubs in one piece We go in the access panel and unhook the trap and drainage. We then remove the dsrywall from the other end. The tub will be screed or nailed to the studs but onceyou remove them the tub can be lifted from the back end and walked out of the room. No sledge hammers, no saws and the tub comes out in one piece.

I have one last question. Could the toilet it self just be raise on a small platform that is just larger than the base of the toilet. I would like the seat to be 17" from the floor, so if I get a 14" toilet wouldn't a platform work? I would prefer not to have to deal with a 1" floor level difference into the hallway

I don't understand the question. Tou want a toilet that sets 17" from the floor? Why not install a handicapped bowl that sets 18" above the floor? A 14" toilet to us means a bowl that roughs in 14" off the wall instead o f a regular 12" bowl. But you're referring to height aren't you? You have a 1" step or step down from the bath to the hallway? One other thing. Chances are that you have cast iron drainage in your 50's house. Do you plan on doing the plumbing yourself and if so do you have the tools and skills to run the drainage and water by yourself? I wish you luck and if we can help just ask. Tom

[newjlb]

I am sorry that I didn't make the seat height question very clear. I will have a plumber do the drains and install the fixtures. He will replace all of the lines that are there now. The floor is open to the basement below and the furnace is under where I want the toilet, leaving him 6" to work with to install the toilet drain. He would prefer 7" for the toilet drain and asked about raising the floor one inch. I am tearing out the bathroom to the studs and will be replacing the subfloor (most of the floor is under the tub that will be removed). It is my understanding that you have your choice of the height of the toilet seat on different models from 14 to 17 inches up from the floor. If I get a toilet that is 14 inches from the floor to the seat and install it on a 2" platform that is only slightly larger than the base of the toilet, it seems to me that I will end up with a toilet that is 16" from the seat to the floor and, as the bowl extends several inches out from the base at the floor, not have any interference from the platform. This would give my plumber 8" to install the toilet drain. I thought I would get someone else's opinion before finalizing the plan. I am doing the rest of the work myself, as I did with the bathroom in the basement. I do not think I can get the old tub out in one piece-I think the bathroom was built around it. The room truly is 73 inches by 58 inches, and even with everything else removed, turning the 60 inch tub to get it out the door seems like a daunting task. I thought there might be a tool I could rent to cut it in three pieces so I could take out the middle, then get the ends out of the walls. Thank you.

[speedball1]

Choose from various heights, ranging from juvenile models typically found in preschools to chair-height models for large adults or people with special needs. The typical height from bowl rim to floor is about 14 to 15 inches. As the population ages, toilet manufacturers have responded by raising the toilet heights to be comparable to standard chair height. In fact, the current wording for the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA) is becoming the norm - 17-19 inches with 18" being a handicapped bowl. Good luck, Tom