Check out some similar questions!

jerbren · Mar 17, 2009, 02:36 PM

I have a mower that is about 15yr old it will run and cut for about 30 minutes. When its cools off it will start again:mad:

ballengerb1 · Mar 18, 2009, 07:45 AM

Make sure the engine is fairly clean and clear all dust and debris from the grill on top of the engine. I also use a compressor to blow out and debris from under the screen.

jerbren · Mar 19, 2009, 09:42 AM

Originally Posted by ballengerb1

Make sure the engine is fairly clean and clear all dust and debris from the grill on top of the engine. I also use a compressor to blow out and debris from under the screen.

I did all of the above. Some one said it might be the coil over heating. What do you think. Thanks for your response.

crigby · Mar 20, 2009, 09:37 AM

Hi,
#0 minutes is the fairly exact time it takes to heat and fail a coil. You have not said what brand or model engine you have, but that assessment cuts across brands and models.
Peace,
Clarke

jerbren · Mar 22, 2009, 06:09 AM

Originally Posted by crigby

Hi,
#0 minutes is the fairly exact time it takes to heat and fail a coil. You have not said what brand or model engine you have, but that assessment cuts across brands and models.
Peace,
Clarke

Crafsman mower with 18 hp briggs &stratton eng 1996 model422437 type1266-01

crigby · Mar 22, 2009, 06:26 AM

Hi,
You have a 42 cu in opposed L-head twin. It has a single unified(two coils in one) ignition armature> It fires both plugs on each revolution even though only one cylinder is making power. The fact that the pistons move in opposite directions provides it with an innate counter-balancing effect.
It does sound that it is the failed part.
Peace,
Clarke

jerbren · Mar 24, 2009, 06:37 PM

Originally Posted by crigby

Hi,
You have a 42 cu in opposed L-head twin. It has a single unified(two coils in one) ignition armature> It fires both plugs on each revolution even though only one cylinder is making power. The fact that the pistons move in opposite directions provides it with an inate counter-balancing effect.
It does sound that it is the failed part.
Peace,
Clarke

What do you think the problem could be

crigby · Mar 24, 2009, 07:20 PM

Hi,
If you have a spark tester, then fail the engine and immediately check it for ignition. My guess is that is what it is. To easliy replace, you will have to remove the air filter and airbox base(it partially conceals 2 of the eight bolts that hold on the blower housing.) Remove the blower housing(3/8" wrench) and the armature rests above one cylinder. Remove the armature( 1/4" socket, usually) and replace.
There is only one other thing that could do it, but "grinding" on the starter after the engine stops should restart it. That would be the fuel pump built into the carb body. It is on the front side and is held together by 3 or 4 screws. It would be caused by the engine burning more fuel than the pump can replace, but the engine should recrank.
Peace,
Clarke

jerbren · Mar 25, 2009, 12:30 PM

Originally Posted by crigby

Hi,
If you have a spark tester, then fail the engine and immediately check it for ignition. My guess is that is what it is. To easliy replace, you will have to remove the air filter and airbox base(it partially conceals 2 of the eight bolts that hold on the blower housing.) Remove the blower housing(3/8" wrench) and the armature rests above one cylinder. Remove the armature( 1/4" socket, usually) and replace.
There is only one other thing that could do it, but "grinding" on the starter after the engine stops should restart it. That would be the fuel pump built into the carb body. It is on the front side and is held together by 3 or 4 screws. It would be caused by the engine burning more fuel than the pump can replace, but the engine should recrank.
Peace,
Clarke

Thanks Clarke I will try all of the above