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mygirlsdad77 · Mar 3, 2009, 08:29 PM

No problem. You should be set. Let us know how things turn out. Good luck. Take care. Im off to bed for the night.

Dave Ermeling · Mar 3, 2009, 08:36 PM

One last thing. The toilets we have in the rest of the house seem too short. 15" to the top of the bowl. Any recommendations on toilet choice / features?

mygirlsdad77 · Mar 3, 2009, 08:53 PM

Most new toilets flush pretty well. I have found TOTO toilets to be a little ahead of the game when it comes to a good flush. As far as height goes, you will want to look for a highrise toilet(ada complient, also known as handicap toilet) standard toilet measures about 15 to top of bowl, handicap measures about 17 to bowl. The highrise toilet is going to cost a bit more(roughly 100 buck or so depending on what make and style you want). LIke I said, most new toilets are pretty much equal, just find one that you like the looks and height of and has the right price tag on it, and go with it. However, I would look into toto toilets online and see what you think of them. I have had great luck with them(cost a little more). Never had a complaint on one yet. They just seem to flush so much better than the rest. Other than that, Gerber, American standard, Pro flow, etc etc, seem to work just fine.

Dave Ermeling · Mar 4, 2009, 09:45 PM

Guys, if you're still listening, I was at HD today and they had what looked like the Twist and Set you guys posted photos of. Do you slide it down inside the 4" drain pipe then tighten some stainless bolts to draw the bottom piece up and squeeze the rubber seal out against the pipe? They also had one that just had a rubber lip that sealed against the inside of the pipe-no bolts. Which one is the best?

mygirlsdad77 · Mar 4, 2009, 09:56 PM

I would recommend the first one with the stainless bolts.

massplumber2008 · Mar 5, 2009, 05:45 AM

I'm also a fan of the type with SSbolts... :)

You install exactly as you said!

Dave Ermeling · Mar 6, 2009, 06:39 PM

Thanks guys.

Dave Ermeling · Mar 8, 2009, 08:50 PM

Turns out they had a flange at HD that glues inside 4" PVC pipe. It worked out real well. The toilet install went smooth except I've got a slow leak where the satin nickel pipe nipple screws into the copper adaptor on the copper pipe in the wall. I cab barely get a wrench on the fitting but I need to take it apart and use plenty of teflon pipe dope to help it seal up.

mygirlsdad77 · Mar 9, 2009, 04:22 PM

Glad things are going smoothly(other than the small leak). Good job, you are all but finished now.

Dave Ermeling · Mar 9, 2009, 05:52 PM

I guess I should have done more research on the configuration of the plumbing as far as where the water for the toilet comes out of the wall. I put it to the right of the toilet so it would less visible. I had to use a 20" hose since 12" was a bit too short. Also the vanity plumbing ended up not centered on where the vanity light is, etc. Live and learn I guess. Now I need to find a 48" vanity that has plenty of room in the back for plumbing to come through.

mygirlsdad77 · Mar 11, 2009, 03:33 PM

Happens all the time, just get that 48"(make sure drawers in vanity will not affect repiping of lines in cabinet).

Milo Dolezal · Mar 12, 2009, 03:39 AM

Originally Posted by Dave Ermeling

I guess I should have done more research on the configuration of the plumbing as far as where the water for the toilet comes out of the wall. I put it to the right of the toilet so it would less visible. I had to use a 20" hose since 12" was a bit too short. also the vanity plumbing ended up not centered on where the vanity light is, etc. Live and learn I guess. Now I need to find a 48" vanity that has plenty of room in the back for plumbing to come through.

Oooops... Yes, incoming water for toilet should be on the left. But the way you have it should work just fine... it just doesn't look right.

Select cabinet so the drawers don't interfere with plumbing. If you are getting 48" cabinet than you should get cabinet with following configuration:

1. 12" drawers on left, 24" doors in the middle and another 12" drawers on right.
2. Doors only, no drawers
3. Drawers on one side only - but not to exceed 16" in width

Dave Ermeling · Mar 13, 2009, 07:45 PM

Now I can't get this darn small leak to stop. It appears that it's leaking between the sweated on copper threaded fiiting and the brushed nickel nipple threaded into it. I've put plenty of pipe dope on it and got it pretty snug. Guess I might try a different nipple. Anyone have any good ideas for stopping a leak. I can barely get a wrench on the copper fiiting in the wall to hold it while I tighten the nipple.

massplumber2008 · Mar 14, 2009, 05:27 AM

Dave... use about 4-5 wraps of TEFLON TAPE (clockwise) on the threads and then try to re-install the nipple (or use new nipple)... that should fix this up nicely!

Hold against yourself as best you can and tighten the nipple... don't overtighten. This will work.

MARK

Dave Ermeling · Mar 14, 2009, 04:25 PM

Mark, I bought a new nipple and I'll try the teflon tape. I always kind of considered the teflon paste thread sealant better than the tape at sealing but I've tried that now I'll try the tape. Thanks for the info.

mygirlsdad77 · Mar 14, 2009, 04:42 PM

Both pipe dope and teflon tape are lubricants to make the treads seal against themselves better. I think the tape will help solve the problem you are having, and you won't have to tighten the nipple nearly as tight with the tape(also found it seals l little better than dope,for leaky problems.) Good luck.

Dave Ermeling · Mar 14, 2009, 05:09 PM

Lee, I just have to wait and see now. I just put it together again with about 4 wraps of tape. So far no leak. New nipple too though.

Dave Ermeling · Mar 14, 2009, 05:24 PM

Yes, it's the tapered threads that seal against each other but some people think the tape or dope actually seals the joint. They are both just teflon lube.