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    ziehr_ca's Avatar
    ziehr_ca Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jan 10, 2009, 10:48 PM
    92 Civic cranks, won't start, rotor not turning
    After reading all if the threads and testing the electrical components I have what might be an easy question to answer.
    Should the ignition rotor be easy to turn by hand in order to access the bolt that removes it?

    Mine seems to be locked in place and doesn't rotate when the engine cranks over, thus not creating a spark to the engine.
    Does this point to a bad bearing in the 2 year old distributor or could it be pointing to more major problems (as in a blown timing belt). The alternator and crank belt do rotate when I turn it over though.

    Thanks for any help you can direct towards me.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #2

    Jan 11, 2009, 06:50 AM

    The rotor should not be able to be turned by hand. Only cranking the starter motor should turn the rotor. Sounds like the timing belt broke.
    ziehr_ca's Avatar
    ziehr_ca Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jan 11, 2009, 09:43 AM

    Ouch, that is what I was afraid of.
    What are the chances that the valves aren't bent if the belt didn't break while the engine was running?
    STORY: it ran fine but then I got stuck in the snow and I left it, came back days later and it wouldn't start. It was extremely cold here during that time.
    Thanks
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #4

    Jan 11, 2009, 12:47 PM

    Valves and pistons should be fine, if the timing belt didn't break or slip.
    ziehr_ca's Avatar
    ziehr_ca Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jan 15, 2009, 07:18 AM

    Thanks tx, it was the timing belt
    It actually broke into 5 pieces and pushed its way through the bottom of the cover by the crank!
    I might be in the market for a new engine...
    Haven't gotten it back together yet as I am waiting on a new cover, Any tips on ensuring the timing is accurate?
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #6

    Jan 15, 2009, 07:29 AM

    Best to buy a Haynes Manual.
    ziehr_ca's Avatar
    ziehr_ca Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jan 16, 2009, 01:23 AM

    The Haynes manual has helped me quite a bit in this process (although not as much as this website).

    I finished the timing belt change tonight and good news, the engine sounds smooth and doesn't seem to have bent any valves with the timing belt self-destructing.
    Just one issue though, the idle is really high and won't slow when it warms.
    Would being a tooth off in lining up the cam gear to the timing belt cause a high idle? I thought I had it lined up with the head but now I am second guessing myself.
    TxGreaseMonkey's Avatar
    TxGreaseMonkey Posts: 16,761, Reputation: 5597
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    #8

    Jan 16, 2009, 06:53 AM

    . Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.

    . Check throttle linkage adjustment. Ensure cable has not popped out of the throttle bracket near the left strut.

    . Clean the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) with brake cleaner.

    . Check/replace the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor.

    . Read the link below:

    https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post842969
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