 |
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 10, 2009, 06:12 PM
|
|
Plumbing drainage
My drain pipe from the washing machine started backing up in the last 2 weeks. Today I snaked the vent from the roof and then snaked 25' into the house to see if there was a blockage. I can put the garden hose in the drain without a problem but when the washer is at the peak of draining it throws up. What else do I need to do. Please help as I have no money to hire a plumber. Thanks so much!!
|
|
 |
Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
|
|
Jan 10, 2009, 08:57 PM
|
|
What size is your drain pipe. Current code requires 2" but the new 2009 code calls for 3" since 2" fails too often. Newer washer just pump too much volume.
|
|
 |
Ultra Member
|
|
Jan 10, 2009, 09:03 PM
|
|
The hose doesn't put as much water in the pipe as the washer does and add suds to that. From the top of the drain pipe to the U trap by the floor what does that measure and the size of the pipe? Did you change detergents ( more suds) that could be the effect diff.
You say snaked 25' into the house did that include the washer pipe and the U bend at the bottom was snaked?
This might seem irrelevant to you but are you on sewer or septic/ drain field. Is the washer the lowest point of the house?
Let me know. Exactly what was snaked in the house
Signed 21 Boat
If I Helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 11, 2009, 12:11 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by ballengerb1
What size is your drain pipe. Current code requires 2" but the new 2009 code calls for 3" since 2" fails too often. Newer washer just pump too much volume.
This house was built in 1961. I put in a new a new trap and it is 1 1/2". That is exactly what it has been originally. When I took off the trap I ran the 25' of snake into the house. This has been the same washer that has been in the house for the last 5 years. This back-up problem just started a few weeks ago. Thanks for your help!
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 11, 2009, 12:17 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by 21boat
The hose doesn't put as much water in the pipe as the washer does and add suds to that. From the top of the drain pipe to the U trap by the floor what does that measure and the size of the pipe? Did you change detergents ( more suds) that could be the effect diff.
You say snaked 25' into the house did that include the washer pipe and the U bend at the bottom was snaked?
This might seem irrelevant to you but are you on sewer or septic/ drain field. Is the washer the lowest point of the house?
Let me know. Exactly what was snaked in the house
Signed 21 Boat
If I Helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
From the top of the drain pipe to the U trap is about 2'. I replaced the U trap and drain pipe. I did not change detergents. I took off the U trap and snaked into the house 25'. I am on sewer. The house was built in 1961 and the pipes are l 1/2". I have not changed anything and that washer has been used for 5 years. I did not change anything. It all of a sudden would overflow when the washer was at the highest volumn of water output. Thanks for your help!
|
|
 |
Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
|
|
Jan 11, 2009, 12:39 PM
|
|
From the day a drain pipe is installed it starts getting smaller and smaller on the inside diameter due to scum and other debris. Most often the stuff we drain has a scrbbing like action on the pipes but not always, they can and do slowly clog up. Newer washers also have higher output of drain water and these 2 reason have caused the plubing code to change and require a 3" pipe. Many things that worked in 1961 will no longer meet code because we have learned a lot more since then, we don't use aluminium wiring in home any more because of past failures.
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 11, 2009, 01:49 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by ballengerb1
From the day a drain pipe is installed it starts getting smaller and smaller on the inside diameter due to scum and other debris. Most often the stuff we drain has a scrbbing like action on the pipes but not always, they can and do slowly clog up. Newer washers also have higher output of drain water and these 2 reason have caused the plubing code to change and require a 3" pipe. Many things that worked in 1961 will no longer meet code because we have learned a lot more since then, we don't use aluminium wiring in home any more because of past failures.
At this point what do I do? I cannot change the pipes under the house from what they are right now. All of the rest of the plumbing works fine, i.e. toilets, dishwasher.
|
|
 |
Eternal Plumber
|
|
Jan 11, 2009, 02:12 PM
|
|
Hey bKathy,
At this point what do I do? I cannot change the pipes under the house from what they are right now
As pointed out in a earlier post washer pumps are more powerful so they can overpower the system. For openers the stand pipe's too short at 24". It should be at least 36".(you could always add a "surge pipe" (see image)to the stand pipe. But I'm afraid you're going to hafta do the same thing I had to do with my old 1 1/2" washer trap and stand pipe.
Make the washer hose and stand pipe a closed system. This can be done by adding a compression fitting, (see images) to the stand pipe and closing it off.
Or you could simply jam rags around the hose and seal it with duct tape. This will force the discharge past the trap and out into the main. Good luck and thank you for rating my answer. Tom
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 11, 2009, 06:04 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by speedball1
Hey bKathy,
As pointed out in a earlier post washer pumps are more powerful so they can overpower the system. For openers the stand pipe's too short at 24". It should be at least 36".(you could always add a "surge pipe" (see image)to the stand pipe. But I'm afraid you're gonna hafta do the same thing I had to do with my old 1 1/2" washer trap and stand pipe.
Make the washer hose and stand pipe a closed system. This can be done by adding a compression fitting, (see images) to the stand pipe and closing it off.
Or you could simply jam rags around the hose and seal it with duct tape. This will force the discharge past the trap and out into the main. good luck and thank you for rating my answer. Tom
I am wondering if I need to have it cleaned out from the sidewalk to the house. My son and family live in the house and they say that the tub and sinks have been slowing down over time with drainage. What do you think?
|
|
 |
Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
|
|
Jan 11, 2009, 06:07 PM
|
|
Wish you had mentioned those slow drains earlier. I think it might be a good idea to have a plumber with a good sewer rodder take a good look at all your drains. If you want to try yourself we can walk you through it or you can go with a pro. What do you think?
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 11, 2009, 07:16 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by ballengerb1
Wish you had mentioned those slow drains earlier. I think it might be a good idea to have a plumber with a good sewer rodder take a good look at all your drains. If you want to try yourself we can walk you through it or you can go with a pro. What do you think?
My son lives there and he just told me today about the slowing drains. How would I do it myself? Would it just be cheaper to hire someone with the tools to perhaps go from the main cleanout at the sidewalk and clean to the house. I do have a big tree in the front yard and I wonder about roots. Thanks!
|
|
 |
Eternal Plumber
|
|
Jan 12, 2009, 06:57 AM
|
|
You may rent a sewer machine, (see image) and snake the washer roof vent but I have a hunch it won't stop your back up. To be sure you must change the washer drainage into a closed system. You may now snake yhe rest of the roof vents. Put out enough cable to reach the base and 20 feet more.
Now locate and snake from the house cleanoutto the street. If the tip cones back with roots let me know.
If, after all that you still have slow running drains then you must remove the "J" bend from the trap and send a hand snake, (see image) up into the wall. On sinks and lavatories you will only have to put out 6' of snake. Do this on all slow running drains. More questions? I'm as close as a click. Tom
|
|
Question Tools |
Search this Question |
|
|
Add your answer here.
Check out some similar questions!
Plumbing/drainage in older home
[ 1 Answers ]
Hello -- our 50-year old Cape Cod with well and septic is experiencing some drainage/plumbing issues and we would just like to know which expert to all in. We don't want to waste a call (and fee) if we are incorrect in our analysis. We have had our septic pumped out within the last 8 years, so we...
Redoing cast iron drainage plumbing in PVC
[ 1 Answers ]
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/plumbing/cutting-cast-iron-drain-pipe-257290.html
Hi there,
I'm a first time user and have just been reading through a lot of posts and being amazed at how much info is here and what great and thorough answers! I am remodeling a 1 story home in Tennessee and have it...
Drainage Plumbing Problems
[ 1 Answers ]
Every time a toilet is flushed (we have 2) or the tub is drained or shower used, or washing machine is draining... there is a GLUG! GLUG! GLUG! SOUND that comes out of the kitchen sink... and it is loud! Also, anytime anything is draining, i.e. tub, toilet, washing machine... sometimes the toilet...
Drainage Plenum for new plumbing
[ 14 Answers ]
Is it sufficient to have a single 4 inch vent for a bath, a toilet and a sink draining into the sewer line from the main floor of our house to the basement sewer stack and is the placement of the vent important in the plenum (see web page: http://web.mac.com/pughimag2/iWeb/Site/Library.html
Plumbing Drainage systems
[ 1 Answers ]
This question is in regards to the Washington D.C. area.
Is there a certain angle in which my drain pipe from my sink needs to be to connect to the main sewer drain in the house? I had a plumber come in & tell me my drain line was at to steep of an angle. That doesn't make sense to me, but I'm...
View more questions
Search
|