 |
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 02:31 PM
|
|
Why won't well pump shut off?
We have a 4-5 year-ld Craftsman water pump (Model 390-252159) that supplies our water system. It has never given us much trouble, but all of a sudden it just won't shut off, even when it reads 70 PSI on the dial.
I tried turning back the main screw on the top, thinking that might make it shut off at a lower PSI (clockwise... maybe I went the wrong direction?) with no luck.
After unplugging it, and walking away for half an hour, it still reads 65 PSI when I come back to check it which would indicate there is a very slow leak somewhere? But, I would think it would still shut off when pounding that 70 PSI reading.
There is a small puddle under the rear end of the tank... maybe 15-20 square inches... total on the floor.
My basement is unheated and probably only 30 degrees F right now. Could that puddle be just condensation run off?
HELP!!
|
|
 |
Ultra Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 03:20 PM
|
|
Lets check the tank . There is a valve that looks like a car tire valve. Depress that and see if water comes out to see if your air bladder broke. Also tap on from the bottom to the top of the tank and if the clunk doesn't turn into clang and the sound is the same all the way up you are going to need a new tank. If you have a tire gage see what the P.S.I. is. It should be at 2lb less than what your low cut in is set at for the well pump to start.
The small puddle is kind of a dead give away that pressure is leaking and the tank probably be the culprit.
If its really 30 degrees where you water line is then a frozen line. I'm confused water freezes at 32F why do you have a well line in 30F environment? Is the puddle frozen?? To test anything it needs to be thawed out to test
Condensation only happens when cold and hot air mass meets not at 30F and cold well water
21 Boat
If I helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 03:21 PM
|
|
After 90 minutes, the pressure had dropped to 50 PSI... maybe it's not such a slow leak after all. I tend to think it's an air leak though, right?. I mean otherwise the puddle on the floor would have to be larger.
Is that logical thinking, or..
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 03:22 PM
|
|
21boat,
Oh... ok. Thanks. I didn't see your post until after I made the last one. I'll get back to you on that...
|
|
 |
Ultra Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 03:31 PM
|
|
You also could have a bad check valve that lets the pressure drop in the well line and the pump turns on to compensate. Bring the pressure gage up to max on the pump gage. If it starts to drop and no leaks in the house and in the pump basement area there is a bad check valve on the well pump line
21 Boat
If I helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 03:56 PM
|
|
OK... had supper in between, thus the delay in getting back...
There is still air in the air bladder as depressing the stem does not give any water leakage but pure air.
I realized I had turned the valve screw the wrong direction, so cranked it back way up counter clockwise, and turned the pump back on. It had drifted down to 45 PSI, but charged immediately up to the new setting of 50 PSI and immediately switched off.
50 PSI seems to be enough at the faucets, so... problem solved?
|
|
 |
Ultra Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 04:01 PM
|
|
Great ! Glad to hear it
21 Boat
If I helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 04:02 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by 21boat
You also could have a bad check valve that lets the pressure drop in the well line and the pump turns on to compensate. Bring the pressure gage up to max on the pump gage. If it starts to drop and no leaks in the house and in the pump basement area there is a bad check valve on the well pump line
21 Boat
If I helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
21b,
I am not sure what you are suggesting here. It was running full out at 70 PSI before and would not shut off. How would I have "brought the pressure gauge up to max on the pump gauge?" I'm a total plumbing novice and don't understand what you are even suggesting here.
I am confused as to why the pump WILL shut itself down on the new screw setting at 50 PSI, but wouldn't shut down before...
At the moment, I'm just tickled it's shutting off and that there is still air in the bladder.
|
|
 |
Ultra Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 04:20 PM
|
|
If the pumptrol pressure switch is not matched properly with the tank pressure the pump will quick cycle. When messing with the pump psi and getting to far out of sinc with air bladder in tank its pump run pump.
21 Boat
If I helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 05:43 PM
|
|
 Originally Posted by 21boat
If the pumptrol pressure switch is not matched properly with the tank pressure the pump will quick cycle. When messing with the pump psi and getting to far out of sinc with air bladder in tank its pump run pump.
21 Boat
If I helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
Now I'm even more confused than before. What is a "pumptrol pressure switch." I only saw a screw.
Also, my "messing with the pump psi" has caused the pump to turn off, not "pump run pump."
Sorry I'm apparently so dense...
|
|
 |
Plumbing Expert
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 05:50 PM
|
|
The pressure switch turns your pump on and off. The adjusting screw is on the pressure switch.
|
|
 |
Ultra Member
|
|
Jan 5, 2009, 06:28 PM
|
|
Sorry I took a bit to get back
Pumptrol or pressuretrol is the switch that controls how long the well pump runs to build pressure in the lines. Its what you have been adjusting the nut on that sets the pressure contact to run the well pump. If there is only one adjustment on it the its already preset at 20lb on low to before it kicks back on. If there is two adjustment on it then you can adjust the low and high kick in kick off for well pump.
The pump run pump is basically two things a check valve is leaking or the bladder is bad and changes the pressure in the line enough to keep quick cycling the pump going on and off in short burst. There's a cover on the switch look inside that and it might explain it better. Normally the two settings a house water pressure is set st is 20lb low to 30lb high or 30lb low to 50lb high
Is it working all right now?
Signed 21 Boat
If I Helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
|
|
Question Tools |
Search this Question |
|
|
Add your answer here.
Check out some similar questions!
Water pump won't shut off
[ 7 Answers ]
Hi, I have had this problem for 3 weeks now and is about to kick the bucket. I am not a well specialist by any means but I have some plumbing knowledge. It all started with the pump not shutting off. The pressure will only go up to 30 psi and stay there until I shut it off manually. I have a...
The ac pump will not shut off
[ 1 Answers ]
Hello, the pump located beside the gas heater comes on and off with the ac also but it won't shut off. What could cause this?
My heat pump won't shut off on its own!
[ 4 Answers ]
I have a 2 ton Payne heat pump that is truly living up to its name "Pain". It's performance is very inconsistent. 99% of the time, the heater runs constantly. It won't go into on/off cycles on its on. 1% of the time it will remember how to work correctly, and may cycle on and off a few times. ...
Well pump won't shut off
[ 2 Answers ]
Jet pump won't shut-off. I just preplaced the pressure switch because it was leaking and now the pump builds to about 20lb and the pressure gage starts to bounce around. When the pump is unpluged the pressure in the pressure tank drops to 0. Pressure tank is 4 years old (air at 23 psi). I tried...
Heat Pump will not shut off
[ 53 Answers ]
I have a Bryant heat pump that was used very little over the winter. When I went to turn on the air conditioning a few days ago, the outdoor unit would not come on, but the indoor fan and thermostat appeared to be working fine.
I checked the contactor and it was not pulling in, when I pushed it...
View more questions
Search
|