Check out some similar questions!

fixerupper45 · Dec 31, 2008, 03:11 PM

What's is the best way of installing new stair treads over the old ones. Nails or glue?

Thanks

21boat · Jan 1, 2009, 02:52 AM

"Nail or glue" BOTH
Are the old treads sound and solid enough to nail to? This is an odd question What are the new treads made of an how thick? Wouldn't it be easer to pop the old treads and nail in the new? What ever you glue old wood has to be free of waxes and dirt and roughed up heavy grit sandpaper scratch old surface.
There is an wood epoxy in the big box stores than can be used to glue and nail new treads. There is also "liquid nail" caulk that can also be used and a swirl on old and the nail. No matter what you will have to use a product between old and new to keep the squeaks out. Finish nail at an angel so nail can't back straight out over time.

Signed 21 boat

If I helped to answer your question please rate my answer

Clough · Jan 1, 2009, 04:31 AM

Hi, fixerupper45!

If it were me and you're talking about rubber or some other substance out of which the treads are made, I'd be taking out the old treads and using nails to install the new ones directly on the stairs.

The above observation by 21boat is an excellent one!

Are the old treads sound and solid enough to nail to?

Using an adhesive of some kind can be subject to the elements of heat, cold and water and might fail when someone steps on them because of being damaged by the elements in some way.

If something is going to be safe, then I like to be able to see that it's going to be safe. I can't really see if an adhesive is working or not. I can see if nails aren't doing their job, though.

Just my thoughts on this...

Thanks!

21boat · Jan 1, 2009, 05:11 AM

Thanks clough for the good tip on adhesives The adhesive I recommend is for interior or exterior. Good point thanks! I go for old tread out and new yellow pine 5/4 bull nose in. I'm waiting to see what the "tread" is
Happy New Year

Clough · Jan 1, 2009, 05:31 AM

Yes, it would be good to know exactly what the old and new stair treads are made of. I may have been being presumptuous in my reply.

Happy New Year to you, too!

21boat · Jan 1, 2009, 05:43 AM

I hate to repost But I'm laughing so hard I can't see too type!!
I will guarantee I can out "presumptuous" you any day! 1 ha ha ha I'm a newbee here and I was to presumptuous and took a thread / rope and ran with it boy did I get hammered Ha ha The pun here is look at my history and the red dot "pull rope" I personally feel that being presumptuous is a good thing when said in good conscience. I see it as lets not forget the main objective its not about us its about the person needing help so ALL answerers means someone is thinking
Happy New Year!

fixerupper45 · Jan 1, 2009, 06:53 AM

Originally Posted by 21boat

"Nail or glue" BOTH
Are the old treads sound and solid enough to nail to? This is an odd question What are the new treads made of an how thick? Wouldn't it be easer to pop the old treads and nail in the new? What ever you glue old wood has to be free of waxes and dirt and roughed up heavy grit sandpaper scratch old surface.
There is an wood epoxy in the big box stores than can be used to glue and nail new treads. There is also "liquid nail" caulk that can also be used and a swirl on old and the nail. No matter what you will have to use a product between old and new to keep the squeaks out. Finish nail at an angel so nail can't back straight out over time.

Signed 21 boat

If I helped to answer your question please rate my answer

Well first of all were talking about a factory built staircase were the treads are actually recessed into the stringers. The old treads are 1" yellow pine in fairly good shape. I wanted to replace the carpeted staircase with a country style one. Solid wood treads with white risers.

21boat · Jan 1, 2009, 01:34 PM

Fixerupper45. The first thing I was concerned about was you adding another 1" onto the first riser going over the the first tread making that riser to high for code. and the last step would be the opposite which an odd step at the top is also a code breaker Because feet get a quick memory and tripping can easily happen.
So are we looking at two stair cases? One yellow pine ad the second is the "factory built" that has the carpet on" The carpet steps are they ply or pine and cleated "wedges in back" and it's a pain to cut out and get a finished look? If you can be fine on the risers thing then the "nail / Glue" was your only concern. As I said before use both. You got your work cut out for you on making very close cuts to get the New treads and risers cut close to sides of stringers. I assume the new surface added risers will bump out on the tread so the tread will be about 1" wider to make up for the riser being added to .

Signed 21 boat

If I helped to answer your question please rate my answer

fixerupper45 · Jan 1, 2009, 03:43 PM

Originally Posted by 21boat

Fixerupper45. The first thing I was concerned about was you adding another 1" onto the first riser going over the the first tread making that riser to high for code. and the last step would be the opposite which an odd step at the top is also a code breaker Because feet get a quick memory and tripping can easily happen.
So are we looking at two stair cases? One yellow pine ad the second is the "factory built" that has the carpet on" The carpet steps are they ply or pine and cleated "wedges in back" and its a pain to cut out and get a finished look? If you can be fine on the risers thing then the "nail / Glue" was your only concern. As I said before use both. You got your work cut out for you on making very close cuts to get the New treads and risers cut close to sides of stringers. I assume the new surface added risers will bump out on the tread so the tread will be about 1" wider to make up for the riser being added to .

Signed 21 boat

If I helped to answer your question please rate my answer

Im hoping that won't be a problem with the extra 1 inch of rise... I know Its not code,I really didn't give it much thought,just dove wright into it.There was really no other way to get that look.The old treads are stained with old paint and full of knots and holes Is there any way of E-mailing some pics to you during my project. Im pretty handy as far a building things... this is probably going to be a lot more then a couple of weekends worth of work... already have the new treads stained and pollied.. just finishing up painting the risers... using 12mm MDF... I guess there is no way of getting around that final rise at the top.. Thanks for your input... Its greatly appreciated... Jim

21boat · Jan 1, 2009, 04:05 PM

I'm not trying to bust on you here but that last riser is a kicker. Not to be redundant but,
When a person goes up a string up steps the feet subconsciously goes into automatic memory. In a series of steps if I raised a riser 1/4 to1/2 inch I will guarantee at some point in time there will be a person(s) that will trip whiteout doubt. Your last riser to the landing the foot will do a thump because of the 1" difference. I really wish you could sawzall the treads off and go new on the get go.
If you want to send pick I'm using my gals E mail. Mine after provider switch etc Mine is stuck so e mail to [email protected] And let me see what you have and I be happy yo help. In our rehabs we get into replacing bad steps.

Signed 21 boat

If I helped to answer your question please Rate my Answer