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    marilynj's Avatar
    marilynj Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Dec 19, 2008, 10:18 AM
    Kenmore dryer won't heat
    Kenmore dryer quit heating all of a sudden. Any ideas.
    Marilyn
    hvac1000's Avatar
    hvac1000 Posts: 14,540, Reputation: 435
    Heating & Air Conditioning Expert
     
    #2

    Dec 19, 2008, 02:07 PM
    Model number gas or electric?
    Flying Blue Eagle's Avatar
    Flying Blue Eagle Posts: 2,056, Reputation: 225
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    #3

    Dec 19, 2008, 04:13 PM

    Marilynj - There are about 7 different causes,that could cause your trouble,with the
    Dryer :: I will lisdt them and what you can do to check and test each one till you find the culpret. { #1- No power from the wall receptical ( check) in the main power panel- for tripped double breaker, reset' if you have screw in fuses - there will be TWO fuses to check;; #2- Clogged lint screen - Clean out good and also the vent going out side and the vent door on the outside wall:: #3Faulty THERMOSTAT- ( NOTE -you will need a VOLT-OHM meter for these tests:: You can pick one up at Lowe's in the electrical dept. for about 10.
    00 dollars, Get one that will handle up to and above 220 VOLTS ) Note ;;Make sure that the power cord is unplugged :: Remove the top council so that you can get to the back side and to all the switches :: GO TO THE THERMOSTAT SWITCH :: NOW TO TEST - SET THE VOLT OHM METER TO RXI scale, Disconnect both the wires and clip a prob from the meter to each of the wire terminals :
    TO TEST THE SWITCH <TURN THE SETTING TO ANY SETTING ( EXCEPT ) FLUFF DRY )IF;
    The meter reads " ZERO " the thermostat is good ,if high reading, the thermostat is " DEFECTIVE _REPLACE:: #4- To test the start switch - Disconnect the two wires comeing to it ( HEAVY WIRES ) - clip the probs from the meter to the terminals where the wires come off - NOW press the start button IF METER reads ZERO< THE start switch is good if a high reading then it is defective and needs replaced,,:: NOTE - You neede to replace wires after testing ,so we forget wher and how they go :: #5- TO TEST THE TIMER- Disconnect one wire and connect a prob to each one of the terminals the wires are hooked to ;; SET THE SLECTOR TO NORMAL DRY ;; If meter reads ZERO ,the sewitch is good ifthe meter is high then it is defective and needs replaced ;;; Ok -Now if every thing is ok and works ,put it back togreather and lets go to the back panel . WE will have to remove it to get to the other items that needs to be tested;; #6-Next is the HIGH TEMPERTURE PROTECTOR< THERE MAY EVEN BE TWO OF THEM ON SOME UNITS < THE ONE that is always there will be on the outside of the duct covering the heating coil:: NOTE - whenever the TEMPENTURE is exceeded ,The protector cuts the heating coil off and will stay off untill the temperture has cooled down below a set tempture. #6A- lets test the protector, MAKE SURE THE METER IS STILL SET TO RX1scale :: Disconnect one of the wires going to it < now clip the probs to the wire terminals , If the meter reads " ZERO" then the protector is good, if it has a high reading ,it is defective ( REPLACE ) NOTE - if the protector is a three wire you will test it across the two outside terminals::; A second protector on the AIR OUT LET DUCT:: #7-to test the heating coil to see if it is grounded out :: Disconnect both wires insert the probs from the meter into the terminals of the heater, - if meter reads between 8 and 20 ohms -heater is good, if reading is high then it is defective and needs replaced;;; #7a- TO test for
    Grounding:: remove both the wires from the heater , insert one of the probs into the terminal and the other prob touch the outside of the duct - if meter reads high then the heater is good , if the needle swings toward low reading the heater is defective and needs replaced ::: Well I hope this helps you out, Im leaning that the tempture got hot and protector cut it off OR the heating coil went bad :: Good luck and have a better day tomorrow and GOD BLESS:: PLEASE RATE MY ANSWER BELOW ::: F.B.E.

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