[NONELECTRICIAN]

I have a marley heater 4 foot. On the heater is a double pole thermostat. There's 2 black wires and 2 red wires. 1 of the black wires reads cycle, the other black wire reads off. 1 of the red wires reads l1 and the other red wire reads l2. The power source coming to the heater is 2 black wires @ 220v from the panel. The heater either stays on all the time or f I change the wiring around it blows the breaker. Any help would be appreciated and respected. Thank you, rick

[KISS]

That's the corniest wiring diagram that I have ever seen. It doesn't make any normal sense even to me. This is the diagram: http://www.qmarkmeh.com/Develop/prod_pdf/2500wiring.pdf

Why one would wire that way is beyond me.

Power in is the two red wires. Power out are the two black ones. I'm still shaking my head.

You say that they are lebeled i1 ani2. I'l bet it's L1 and L2 or Line 1 and Line 2.

Cycle and OFF make some sense to me too. OFF probably means that this contact is only open in the off position. Cycle is the one that's being interrupted.

It does NOT appear that red and the black wires are continuous on a call for heat.

Sorry I didn't get to this early.

I went out tonight for a formal tour of gardens and fountains. Got a look at the infrastructure running the place from heated soils, PLC controlled fountains, temperature and venting controls in a place where the building frame is stainless steel on 1000 acres of land. The Orchids were gorgeous as well as some Brazillian jungles.

[NONELECTRICIAN]

That's the corniest wiring diagram that I have ever seen. It dosn't make any normal sense even to me. This is the diagram: http://www.qmarkmeh.com/Develop/prod_pdf/2500wiring.pdf

Why one would wire that way is beyond me.

Power in is the two red wires. Power out are the two black ones. I'm still shaking my head.

You say that they are lebeled i1 ani2. I'l bet it's L1 and L2 or Line 1 and Line 2.

Cycle and OFF make some sense to me too. OFF probably means that this contact is only open in the off position. Cycle is the one that's being interrupted.

It does NOT appear that red and the black wires are continuous on a call for heat.

Sorry I didn't get to this early.

I went out tonight for a formal tour of gardens and fountains. Got a look at the infrastructure running the place from heated soils, PLC controlled fountains, temperature and venting controls in a place where the building frame is stainless steel on 1000 acres of land. The Orchids were gorgeous as well as some Brazillian jungles.

Thank you for for answering and I'll give that a try today. I'm really not sure myself that's why I asked. I'll keep you posted if it all works out. By the way, are you a friend of Bill W. Thanks again.

[NONELECTRICIAN]

Thank you for for answering and I'll give that a try today. I'm really not sure myself thats why I asked. I'll keep you posted if it all works out. By the way, are you a friend of Bill W. Thanks again.

Tried that scenario, it works but it's always on. The thermostat doesn't turn it off. The heater is new and worked fine before the room was remodeled. I read with a meter across the L1 and L2 and with the thermostat in the off or calling for heat position reads 220. I'm thinkning now that the thermostat is bad. Do you agree. Thank you again.

[KISS]

Since you have a meter. Between L1 and L2 there should ALWAYS be 240 V. That's he side that connects to the breaker.

Since you popped the breaker at least once, the contacts could be fused.

If you remove the switch and use the ohms scale. X1. Write the value of the resistance to the nearest ohm.

Turn the tstat to the OFF position.

You should have no continuity between any of the wires.


Turn it just past off:

There should be continuity between two of the wires. Write down the colors and labels for these.

Turn it full ON:

There should be continuity between the other two wires. Write down these terminals and colors.

Table should look something like

... L1... L2
OFF... x... x
CYCLE(<SP)... 1... 1
CYCLE(>SP)... 1... x

>SP means greater than set point


Once this is known, a final test would be done with the stat operating to look at degradaton by looking at the voltage ACROSS the contacts.

[NONELECTRICIAN]

Since you have a meter. Between L1 and L2 there should ALWAYS be 240 V. That's he side that connects to the breaker.

Since you popped the breaker at least once, the contacts could be fused.

If you remove the switch and use the ohms scale. X1. Write the value of the resistance to the nearest ohm.

Turn the tstat to the OFF position.

You should have no continuity between any of the wires.


Turn it just past off:

There should be continuity between two of the wires. Write down the colors and labels for these.

Turn it full ON:

There should be continuity between the other two wires. Write down these terminals and colors.

Table should look something like

........................L1.........L2
OFF..................x........... x
CYCLE(<SP).....1............1
CYCLE(>SP).....1............x

>SP means greater than set point


Once this is known, a final test would be done with the stat operating to look at degradaton by looking at the voltage ACROSS the contacts.

The leads across L1 (Red) and L2 (Red) come up on the meter 1, open. This is with the stat either off or anywhere on the dial. The same for Off (Black) and Cycle (Black). If I put lead on Off (Black) and other lead on L1 (Red) the circuit closes, but when I turn the dial off or anywhere it remains closed. Same thing with placing one lead on Cycle (Black) and the other lead on L2 (Red). It seems to me as though this is shot, would you agree! Thank you again

[KISS]

Yep. Contacts are welded closed.

[NONELECTRICIAN]

Yep. Contacts are welded closed.

Thank you for your time, I appreciate it.