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    ben b's Avatar
    ben b Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Jun 26, 2006, 06:54 PM
    Low pressure/banging pipes
    I am a first time homeowner with a well my house was built in 1975. The problem I'm having is with banging pipes,when I turn on the hot water at the faucet or when doing laundery the pipes bang violently and very little hot water comes out. I can help the problem by turning on the hot and cold on another faucet. The problem comes and goes but seems to be getting much worse. My well pressure tanks low pressure setting is 42psi on the gauge and high pressure shut off is 46psi ,the inspector seemed to think that wasn't set right. My oil furnace is original and my water is high in acid and untreated. I hope I gave you what you need, any help would be appreciated, sincerely stumped.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Jun 27, 2006, 06:01 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by ben b
    I am a first time homeowner with a well my house was built in 1975. The problem i'm having is with banging pipes,when i turn on the hot water at the faucet or when doing laundery the pipes bang violently and very little hot water comes out. I can help the problem by turning on the hot and cold on another faucet. The problem comes and goes but seems to be getting much worse. My well pressure tanks low pressure setting is 42psi on the gauge and high pressure shut off is 46psi ,the inspector seemed to think that wasn't set right. my oil furnace is original and my water is high in acid and untreated. I hope I gave you what you need, any help would be appreciated, sincerly stumped.

    Hey Ben,

    Your inspector was right. A 4 PSI differential is overworking the pumps motor and costing you more money. Pkus, it defeats the entire purposes of a pressure/bladder tank. Would you like instructions on how to reset your pump control and adjust your bladder tank?
    You have multiple problems. Let's work on them one at a time.
    Banging pipes are caused by air chambers loading up with condensate. They will have to be drained and recharged.
    Back in the 60's we were required to to put shock absorbers,(air chambers) on all bath lavatorys and kitchen sinks. Over time water and condensate built up in them and they must be recharged. First turn off the house at the main house shut off valve. Then open hot and cold faucets at the farthest bathroom to prevent air lock.(This is important.) You will find under each fixture little brass or chrome valves. These are called angle stops. With a small pail held under the angle stop to catch the run off look under the handle of the stop and you will see a nut with the stem running through it. This is called the bonnet packing nut. Put your wrench on it and back it off counterclockwise. Now open the stop and remove the stem and washer assembly, The stop will begain to drain. When it has quit draining reassemble the stop and move on to the next one. Do this on each one of your angle stops. There will be six of them. When you are done, close off the faucets you have opened, turn on the water to the house, and give yourself a pat on the back.
    You have just recharged your air chambers and saved yourself a hefty service call bill.
    Next we'll work on the pumps control and the bladder tank setting. Hang in there with me and we'll get you back in business. Good luck, Tom

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