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    diy4u's Avatar
    diy4u Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Oct 21, 2008, 05:13 PM
    In wall washing machine connections
    I am planning on moving my laundry from the basement to the first floor, and am curious as to what the current products/methods are for connecting the washing machine. Years ago I used a plastic box that contained a single lever shut off valve, and also a place to hang the drain hose. As I remember, the flange of the box mounted flush to the surface of the drywall. Is there anything new in this area, and do you have any tips on making the connections. The basement ceiling is open in that area, so there is working space. As I have not done soldering, I was thinking of using the Shark connectors as the existing water connections in the basement are right below the new area and I don't have far (or many fittings) to get to the new location. There is also an existing pVC vent in the area.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #2

    Oct 22, 2008, 04:15 PM
    Washer boxes haven't changed that much,(see image) you can't see it but there is a hole in the center for the washer hose. If that vent you plan on connecting to has fixtures draining it from above,(and most of the do), you will have to either run a separate vent or install a AAV, (see image). Good luck, Tom
    diy4u's Avatar
    diy4u Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Oct 22, 2008, 04:28 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1 View Post
    Washer boxes haven't changed that much,(see image) you can't see it but there is a hole in the center for the washer hose. If that vent you plan on connecting to has fixtures draining it from above,(and most of the do), you will have to either run a separate vent or install a AAV, (see image). Good luck, Tom
    Tom, I have a 3 hole Oatey box, and plan on using a single lever shutoff which came with it. I am in a ranch house, and the 1.5" vent I referred to comes up from the old location in the basement, through the wall in the area I am working, and then up to a roof vent. I plan on branching off with a Y fitting from that pipe and use it as the drain for the new location. I'm not to sure just how to fasten the drain pipe to the bottom of the box after a P trap, and was assured that using a 1.5" dia was acceptable.

    Any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #4

    Oct 22, 2008, 04:51 PM

    You can glue it in with ABS / PVC glue. It holds well. Don't forget: the raiser should be no less than 30" but preferably 36" high. And yes, we still use those recessed washer boxes up to today...
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #5

    Oct 22, 2008, 04:58 PM
    If you're sure the vent's dry cone off the vent with a 1 1/2" sanitary tee and trap with a 36" stand pipe,(see image). Your washer box should have a horn that fits inside the washer stand pipe. If that isn't enough support you can fur out from rhe wall and attach it with the ears that came with it. Good luck, Tom
    diy4u's Avatar
    diy4u Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Oct 22, 2008, 05:09 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1 View Post
    If you're sure the vent's dry cone off the vent with a 1 1/2" sanitary tee and trap with a 36" stand pipe,(see image). Your washer box should have a horn that fits inside the washer stand pipe. If that isn't enough support you can fur out from rhe wall and attach it with the ears that came with it. Good luck, Tom
    The sketches are a big help! How do you do them? It might help me with my questions if I made a sketch showing the problem. Great info!
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #7

    Oct 22, 2008, 05:40 PM

    Tom, are you using an exsa sketch for your drawings?lol. I would actually be very interested in knowing how to do diagrams such as yours. Please give more info. Would definitely be constructive on this site.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #8

    Oct 22, 2008, 07:45 PM
    Are you guys serious? That was a old free hand drawing I made up for a one time answer. I scribbled it and scaned it in to disc where I tucked it away up in my data base. As for 4U I Think you have to do the same thing and download it to AMHD using the "Attatchment" feature. Hope I've helped, Tom
    diy4u's Avatar
    diy4u Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Oct 22, 2008, 09:42 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1 View Post
    Are you guys serious? That was a old free hand drawing I made up for a one time answer. I scribbled it and scaned it in to disc where I tucked it away up in my data base. As for 4U I Think you have to do the same thing and download it to AMHD using the "Attatchment" feature. Hope I've helped, Tom
    The only question I have left is running the 1.5" pipe into the box. The 3 holes look all the same to me, and are made for valves to snap in. The collar on the bottom of the box is too large for the 1.5, if that is where I am supposed to glue it. Is there an adapter I should use for this connection?
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #10

    Oct 22, 2008, 09:55 PM

    The recessed box is made for 2" pipe. I would suggest to use 2" trap and riser - but if you decided to use 1 1/2" than get 2" x 1 1/2" ABS or PVC bushing, glue bushing into the box, then pipe into the bushing.
    diy4u's Avatar
    diy4u Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
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    #11

    Oct 22, 2008, 10:04 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Milo Dolezal View Post
    The recessed box is made for 2" pipe. I would suggest to use 2" trap and riser - but if you decided to use 1 1/2" than get 2" x 1 1/2" ABS or PVC bushing, glue bushing into the box, then pipe into the bushing.
    I am using 1.5" only because that is the size that I am connecting to down in the basement (already existing). Thanks for the info - with that I should be able to do this project. This is a great website!
    mygirlsdad77's Avatar
    mygirlsdad77 Posts: 5,713, Reputation: 339
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    #12

    Oct 23, 2008, 03:31 PM

    I can't rate your answers either Milo. Sorry, but this is how I would have rated it... Agree, should have a two inch riser, trap, and drain, (according to code, which on this site, sometimes seems to matter and sometimes, not so much.) You will be fine with the 1 1/2 as long as your drain is clear of buildup, and is properly vented. The 2x1 1/2 bushing is the way to go.
    Milo Dolezal's Avatar
    Milo Dolezal Posts: 7,192, Reputation: 523
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    #13

    Oct 23, 2008, 10:37 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by mygirlsdad77 View Post
    I can't rate your answers either Milo. Sorry, but this is how i would have rated it...... Agree, should have a two inch riser, trap, and drain, (according to code, which on this site, sometimes seems to matter and sometimes, not so much.) You will be fine with the 1 1/2 as long as your drain is clear of buildup, and is properly vented. The 2x1 1/2 bushing is the way to go.
    Good point... I've noticed some time ago, too... ::D

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