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    goulie's Avatar
    goulie Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Oct 21, 2008, 09:24 AM
    How to replace Symmons diverter Handle part T-30?
    This piece is made of plasic and broke off at the 90* neck angle. (at least it is stuck on shower mode which, if it had to break, is what I would prefer.) I have ID'd the part # but have a couple of quesitons about replacing it. First, how difficult is this for the average joe? I have a diagram showing how to take the unit apart, not sure how to get the broken piece out however? Once the old is removed, does the new piece just slide into place or is there a trick to it? I think (? ) I see the small clip piece (T-27CL) but not really sure, do I also need to order a new one of these? Finally, should I replace the spindle (TA-25A) since I will already have the unit open to replace the handle? It does not seem to be leaking but is about 12 years old I think... thanks for any help on this!
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Oct 21, 2008, 04:03 PM
    goulie,
    You gave us everything but the model number of your valve so we could look it up. I have part numbers but no valve to check them back against. What shower valve do you have? Regards, Tom
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #3

    Oct 21, 2008, 04:59 PM
    Goulie...

    I see you have a symmons shower valve. The T-30 part is an easy fix.

    Here, remove the trim and remove the obvious stuff. Then take a long screw and see if you can screw it into the broken plastic part left inside the valve. If successful, will be able to screw into part and simply pull it out.

    Then just need to install the new part using the old clip and set into place. It should be that easy... ;) No tricks with this part (about the only part with no tricks... ;) ).

    Changing the spindle assembly is not necessary at this time... if not leaking! When you see dripping, etc. then it's time!

    Let us know if need more on this valve... :) I install these every other day!

    MARK
    mdstrain's Avatar
    mdstrain Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #4

    Jul 23, 2010, 05:55 PM
    No answer, but I just did this and now water is running cold?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #5

    Jul 23, 2010, 06:17 PM

    Mdstrain...

    The diverter has nothing to do with hot or cold water...

    If you have lost hot water as a result of working on the spindle assembly (T-30) then you may have somehow disturbed the stem assembly (TA-10) and will need to remove it and see if you can clean it/free it up using CLR or vinegar... soak for 20 minutes or so. Otherwise, you'll need to replace the entire stem assembly... UGH!

    When you shake TA-10 it should rattle... if not, try the CLR or vinegar. If your TA-10 rattles then we have another issue here... let me know.

    Check this link out for part numbers...

    http://media.photobucket.com/image/s...mmonsvalve.jpg

    Back to you... OK?

    Mark
    Andrew350's Avatar
    Andrew350 Posts: 2, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #6

    May 27, 2011, 10:25 AM
    Im replacing the same part now, because my Diverter Spindle stripped out and stopped diverting from shower to tub. It's a TA-25A temptrol-diverter spindle, and a T30-Kit Temptrol- Diverter handle kit, the little white plastic piece with the o-ring on it. You said put a long screw in it and try to pull it out, I used a 5/16" lag screw and threaded it but could not pull it out. I didn't want to force it to prevent breaking a pipe but is there any other way to get this out? Or do I just need to pull harder?

    Hope you guys are still active on this forum or this will be one sweaty memorial day weekend!

    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #7

    May 27, 2011, 12:25 PM

    Hi Andrew...

    You shouldn't need to thread the 5/16" lag bolt in too far...could compress the diverter spindle into the walls of the valve and make it real hard to pull out.

    In your case, I would say you just need to pull harder here...have a friend hold the valve body and then you yank the 5/16" lag bolt with a pair of pliers... should work.

    Let me know what happens, OK?

    Mark

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