 |
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Aug 3, 2008, 07:08 PM
|
|
Leaky tank
I have replaced both the inlet hose and ring that fits inside the toilet. It still leaks out of the toilet from the tank. I even put plumbers putty hoping that I filled a crack. Any suggestions besides hiring a plumber. Lol
Jeff
|
|
 |
Senior Plumbing Expert
|
|
Aug 4, 2008, 03:40 AM
|
|
Hi Moose:
Sounds like it is time to replace the TANK BOLTS... there should be 2 or maximum of 3 of these bolts.
You should also replace the tank gasket at the same time... but this gasket gets mounted on the OUTSIDE of the tank in between the tank bolts (over the large nut in center).
Sometimes these are sold as a KIT... see picture below.
Replace the bolts, tighten bolts hand tight, then start to tighten them down systematically a little at a time until you end up with a level tank front to back and side to side and have only about 1/4" movement in tank when finished. DON'T lock the tank down to the bowl... could crack it... ok?
Also... plumber's putty will not help you here. Setting the tank squarely to the bowl, replacing bolts and gasket, and tightening in correct manner will... ;)
Let us know how you make out...
MARK
|
|
 |
Eternal Plumber
|
|
Aug 4, 2008, 05:36 AM
|
|
Something I might add is to check the large nut that secures the flush valve. Sometimes the manufacture doesn't tighten the nut complete and if it slips by the installer you have a leak out of that. If you're going to ask for a tank gasket it might be known as a spud washer. One last thing. Do not tighten the tank bolts so much that the tank sets ridged. It wants to have about 1/4inch " of play/rock. If you have no play in the tank and someone leans back the tank could crack at the base where the bolts are. Good luck, Tom
|
|
 |
Plumbing Expert
|
|
Aug 4, 2008, 06:43 AM
|
|
Agree with both answers above. It may get tricky, and frustrating, if you don't have at least some experience doing it. Follow Mark and Tom's advice and you should be fine.
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Aug 4, 2008, 06:16 PM
|
|
Here are some pictures to give you a better idea of what I am trying to explain. I hope I was able to send the pictures with this message. As you can see the three components. The one photo of the bottom of the tank shows you what I see. The only ring to seal is on the inside. How can I tackle this with new information. Which I should have presented in the first place.. Thank you very much and I will rate you guys this week for your quick response from last night , etc..
Jeff
|
|
 |
Senior Plumbing Expert
|
|
Aug 4, 2008, 06:27 PM
|
|
Moose...
Flexibel water connector is fine...
At the bottom of the tank you are missing the "spud washer" or can also call it the "tank to bowl gasket" and the large nut that fits over the threads in the picture (exterior)... I posted a pic. Of the spud washer at last post.
Let me know if you understand.. or if I am missing something...
MARK
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Aug 4, 2008, 08:05 PM
|
|
Mark,
I should feel more foolish. The one part that I need to include was sitting in front of me at the computer. In the first image there is a plastic nut that pulls down that threaded pieces which from the third picture lies the spud washer sticking out around the edge. I had this nut tighten snug. Then it was cranked down. Later on like I might have mentioned it was found with a puddle when doing routine housekeeping. I very thankful for all the help you are providing.
Jeff
|
|
 |
Senior Plumbing Expert
|
|
Aug 5, 2008, 04:13 AM
|
|
Jeff...
The spud washer we are talikn about is the washer that fits the flush valve threads... not the fill valve threads (as you have highlighted in last pic.).
Looking at the inside of the tank I think this is a good time to purchase a whole new FLUIDMASTER COMPLETE REPAIR KIT for your toilet (see picture below). These are sold at all home supply stores. The flexible water supply tube looked fine.
The inner flush valve washer is clearly knurled and puckered (that in itself could be the issue for you... the outer flush valve SPUD WASHER is missing in pic. Below) and the brass bolts and the bolt washers are clearly old... and therefore the fill valve is probably getting old/worn down, too. Check out pic. Below to be sure we are on same page in terms of which valve is which.
The flush valve washer must have been exposed to a cleaning tablet or two over the years? If so, don't use in tank products anymore... famous for destroying the rubber seals/flappers, etc. If you did not use in tank cleaning tablets or simlar then the parts are simply defective and like I sadi... time to replace them across the board!
Fluidmaster will have step by step instructions to help you resolve this once and for all!
This is a 1/2 hour job once you have the parts... ok? Remember, no putty! ;) And, don't overtighten the fill valve nut... could crack the toilet!
Let us know what you think here...
MARK
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Aug 6, 2008, 07:09 PM
|
|
I will take this suggestion to my local plumbing store and get the right kit. BTW I read your profile. I am finishing my pre-req's for nursing and did Microbiology in 8 weeks. Man that was rough...
 Originally Posted by massplumber2008
Jeff...
The spud washer we are talikn about is the washer that fits the flush valve threads...not the fill valve threads (as you have highlighted in last pic.).
Looking at the inside of the tank I think this is a good time to purchase a whole new FLUIDMASTER COMPLETE REPAIR KIT for your toilet (see picture below). These are sold at all home supply stores. The flexible water supply tube looked fine.
The inner flush valve washer is clearly knurled and puckered (that in itself could be the issue for you...the outer flush valve SPUD WASHER is missing in pic. below) and the brass bolts and the bolt washers are clearly old....and therefore the fill valve is probably getting old/worn down, too. Check out pic. below to be sure we are on same page in terms of which valve is which.
The flush valve washer must have been exposed to a cleaning tablet or two over the years?? If so, don't use in tank products anymore...famous for destroying the rubber seals/flappers, etc. If you did not use in tank cleaning tablets or simlar then the parts are simply defective and like I sadi...time to replace them across the board!
Fluidmaster will have step by step instructions to help you resolve this once and for all!!
This is a 1/2 hour job once you have the parts...ok?? Remember, no putty!! ;) And, don't overtighten the fill valve nut...could crack the toilet!!
Let us know what you think here...
MARK
|
|
 |
Senior Plumbing Expert
|
|
Aug 7, 2008, 03:43 AM
|
|
Microbiology is a detailed subject... huh? Not easy in 8 weeks for sure! Either was summer seesion organic chemistry I and II... great stuff, but if I had to follow one more electron I swore I was going to hang the instructor!
Let us know how you make out with toilet... ;)
MARK
|
|
 |
New Member
|
|
Aug 7, 2008, 09:44 PM
|
|
I got the kit and will attempt it this weekend.
 Originally Posted by massplumber2008
Microbiology is a detailed subject...huh?? Not easy in 8 weeks for sure! Either was summer seesion organic chemistry I and II...great stuff, but if I had to follow one more electron I swore I was gonna hang the instructor!!
Let us know how you make out with toilet...;)
MARK
|
|
 |
Senior Plumbing Expert
|
|
Aug 12, 2008, 05:37 PM
|
|
Thanks for the greenie Moose70 and the update (see post #2 if anyone else reads this). I also misspelled flexIBLE at post #6... :( Hate when I mistype something!
Good night...
MARK
|
|
Question Tools |
Search this Question |
|
|
Add your answer here.
Check out some similar questions!
Toilet tank doesn't refill. No water in tank make it flush
[ 17 Answers ]
My toilet was working properly before tonight. :p There was no slow leak sound; nothing.
Now when the handle is pressed, nothing happens. I opened up the tank and found there was no water in the tank. :( I've been searching the Internet for answers, but haven't found any that address this...
1994 ford f150 won't switch to front gas tank from rear tank
[ 7 Answers ]
I have a 1994 ford f150 xl 4.9 straight v6 with dual gas tanks.
When I try to switch over to the front tank from the rear tank the truck stalls out and won't start. Why is this and how can I fix this problem? <PS> even if I switch over before I even try starting the engine the truck still...
Gas flow from front tank into rear tank on an F150 pickup
[ 2 Answers ]
Help: I have an F150 2 whl drive pickup, manual transmission. Straight 6 cylinder.
The gas flows from front tank into the rear tank. Not a huge problem, but when you fill both tanks, gas starts running out of the rear tank because the front one is still trying to fill the rear one. Gas mileage...
Leaky Water Tank Pressure gauge
[ 1 Answers ]
I have well water and my water tank pressure gauge has a small leak. What are the steps that I need to take to safely replace it? Also can I purchase the new pressure gauge at a Home Depot or Lowe's?
Thanks,
Bill
Leaky Toilet Tank - Small Air Bubbles Forming Around Flapper
[ 4 Answers ]
Hi All, My toilet tank is leaking into the bowl, causing the fill valve to run every 5-10 minutes to refill the tank. I have identified the problem as being with the flapper. Tiny air bubbles are forming around the seal preventing the flapper from making a good seal and keeping the water in the...
View more questions
Search
|