[rudy68]

Ok, this shouldn't be this difficult, but I'm now officially stumped. I'm a pretty handy guy, and have replaced faucets and even run drain lines. But this seemingly very simple project is beating me!

I would like to replace a Watco push pull drain in our master garden tub. Removing the top part was as simple as I expected it to be. I just unscrewed the cap, and unscrewed the stopper itself. It unscrewed and was removed - very simple!

Now for the difficult part. I thought that the drain body itself would also unscrew, based on my understanding of other instructions I've seen.

The body itself absolutely won't unscrew. I don't know what the plumbers might have used to seal it, but I'm now concerned.

I tried everything to unscrew it. It won't unscrew by hand, so I tried using needle nosed pliers (keeping them open, with one jaw against two opposite cross members inside the drain body to use as leverage). I put so much pressure on the needle nose pliers I actually bent the steel forged jaws!

Anyone know any secret? Of course I'm turning counter-clockwise, and I can see no other screws or any other mechanical fastening.

I would HUGELY appreciate any insight, as I actually put a small scratch in the tub already and am resisting the temptation to get a bigger hammer... :)

Thanks much!!

[rudy68]

Ok, this shouldn't be this difficult, but I'm now officially stumped. I'm a pretty handy guy, and have replaced faucets and even run drain lines. But this seemingly very simple project is beating me!

I would like to replace a Watco push pull drain in our master garden tub. Removing the top part was as simple as I expected it to be. I just unscrewed the cap, and unscrewed the stopper itself. It unscrewed and was removed - very simple!

Now for the difficult part. I thought that the drain body itself would also unscrew, based on my understanding of other instructions I've seen.

The body itself absolutely won't unscrew. I don't know what the plumbers might have used to seal it, but I'm now concerned.

I tried everything to unscrew it. It won't unscrew by hand, so I tried using needle nosed pliers (keeping them open, with one jaw against two opposite cross members inside the drain body to use as leverage). I put so much pressure on the needle nose pliers I actually bent the steel forged jaws!

Anyone know any secret? Of course I'm turning counter-clockwise, and I can see no other screws or any other mechanical fastening. I'm pretty sure the builder's plumbers used silicone on the drain body originally.

I would HUGELY appreciate any insight, as I actually put a small scratch in the tub already and am resisting the temptation to get a bigger hammer... :)

Thanks much!!

[letmetellu]

You are doing the right thing in trying to turn it counter clockwise, but the needle nose pliers might not do the job. Here is how I do it. I have a tool but you may have to make yourself one. Find a steel pipe with an outside diameter that will go down into the drain that you want to remove. Now use a hack saw to cut notches in the end of the pipe so the notches will go down into the open spots in the drain and straddle the cross bar in the drain. Now use a wrench to turn the pipe counter clockwise, it should turn with quite of pressure applied. It is just tight from the putty that was applied under the drain to keep it form leaking plus age makes them stick.
I would like to know if this helps you.

[rudy68]

Thanks for the input - I will definitely try this.

I'm actually afraid the original plumber used silicone, not putty like I would think you're supposed to. I have been able to get little bits of silicone out with my razor blade around the drain body.

I did try and use a pipe as leverage against the pliers handles. Believe it or not, the forged steel of the plier jaws actually bent, but the drain body itself didn't budge!

Holy cow!

Any insight from you guys would be HUGELY appreciated.

Rob

[massplumber2008]

Hey Rob:

These can be super easy sometimes and ridiculously difficult at other times... sounds like you're somewhere in the middle about now.

Letmetellu had good suggestion about notching pipe (when I was younger I made one like he mentioned and then welded handles onto the pipe for leverage)... see last picture... called a basket strainer wrench.

Anyway, if making this tool is not handy for you then they sell a dumbell tub drain wrench (just what they call it.. no insult intended... ;) ) at all home supply stores (home depot,Lowe's, ace hardware, etc.)... see 1st picture below. Plan on using a large wrench to turn the dumbbell wrench (place towels in tub around area you are working to minimize scratches if slip).

If that fails or the cross bars break off then you may need to step it up and purchase an internal tub drain wrench (see 2nd picture)... this tool almost never fails to remove the tub drain... but is usually only available at a plumbing supply store or online.. ok?

They also sell a an internal tub drain key wrench (see 3rd picture)... these are also only found at plumbing supply or online... but also work great!

FInally, if none of these work.. or you just plain lose patience then you may need to cut the old unit out... but before you do this come back and chat with us for a few minutes. Is there an access panel from behind the tub?

Let us know what you think...

MARK

[rudy68]

Awesome! Thanks so much for the list of tools! I ordered the Dumbbell wrench (no offense taken, in this case it may be an appropriate title!), so I should have that tomorrow. I'll keep you updated.

The other problem is that I really have no access anywhere to underneath. It's a 2nd floor master, so nothing from below. Nothing from behind because my wife's vanity is there. And the well thought out builder plan didn't allow for an access panel on the front - I'd have to remove all tile on the front, which is custom travertine.

Is it just me, or should the original plumber have used putty instead of silicone? Why would they choose to use silicone?

Any other input on how to deal with this silicone issue?

Thanks for any and all help!!

[massplumber2008]

Some plumbers use putty... some use silicone.

All in all.. with the right tool silicone should not be a big deal... as long as it is not a damn adhesive caulking... that could give you trouble!

Access panels aren't really used much anymore behind tubs. Most contractors will agree that when issue arises THEN it is time to cut wall and install one... home depot sells a great SNAP IN access panel. But, I don't think you will need to do it at this point.

Anyway, try the dumbbell wrench... let us know how it goes...

MARK

[Milo Dolezal]

Mark said it: use wrench as in pic #1. Put it inside the drain and unscrew.

[rudy68]

Woohoo!! It worked!

I was right that the other plumber used silicone, but using the basket wrench finally broke it loose!!

It was difficult to turn, even after it started to break free. You should have seen the giant gob of silicone!

Thanks again all - a huge time and money saver!

[Milo Dolezal]

When you reinstall, don't use silicone. Use Plumber's Putty instead.

[massplumber2008]

Hi Rudy:

You mean to tell me that this was killin' you so badly that you couldn't wait for the dumbell wrench to arrive tomorrow and you just had to go out and purchase a basket strainer wrench??

That's a riot!! I would have done the same thing... ;)

Hey, thrilled to hear you're all set! I didn't want to get into the details involved in the worst case scenario for this... It gets pretty ugly, time consuming and frustrating when the old tub waste needs to be cut out but the tubular brass under/behind the tub just disintegrates and the job just grows and grows... Glad your job didn't grow into that!

Let us know if anything else pops up.

Mark