[timpted]

Hi guys, I have a 96 accord that just died one day on the way to school, no spark from the coil, and no gas from the fuel pump, well I replaced the main fuel relay thinking that had to be the cause of all my problems, but Murpheys law is working against me as usual, does any one here have an idea as to what I should do next? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[TxGreaseMonkey]

. Test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Test all fuses very carefully; otherwise, it can waste lots of time and money.

. Test for codes, by attaching a code reader to the Data Link Connector under the dash.

. Perform K-Test on the ECM:

Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (Position II). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate.

Read Sections A and B below for further insights:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post219438

If the Check Engine Light stays on, when the ignition switch is turned to ON, my bet is there's a blown under-dash fuse [ACG (ALT) (S)] or the ECM is bad.

[timpted]

Hi guys, I have a 96 accord that just died one day on the way to school, no spark from the coil, and no gas from the fuel pump, well I replaced the main fuel relay thinking that had to be the cause of all my problems, but Murpheys law is working against me as usual, does any one here have an idea as to what I should do next? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

OK I checked the fuses, I found the ecu fuse under the hood was blown, I thought well that's my problem, I changed it and the car started,(woohoo!! ) I was amazanly happy, so I went for a drive only to have the car die on me, well the same ecu fuse had blown, hummm I thought to myself, this calls for a 15 amp fuse and all I had was a 20, so I put it in. I proceeded to start the engine but the 20 amp blew right off the bat, now why would the 20 blow right away and the 15 last for a while.(Hummmmm) Is the ecu bad? Do you think there might be damage to the new main relay now, this is kind of starting to suck a little. But I do love a good puzzle every now and then. I appreciate any help. Thank you.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

You didn't hurt the new main relay. However, it appears there's an internal short in the ECM. Honda charges around $1,000 for a new computer, with a one-year warranty. However, O'Reilly Auto Parts sells remanufactured ECMs, with a lifetime warranty, for around $300. By the way, there are spare fuses in the under-dash fuse box.

Here's how to replace the ECM:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post235038

[timpted]

Well that's not exactly what I wanted to hear, but oh well. Thanks for your help on this, its much appreciated.

[TxGreaseMonkey]

There's also a possibility the ECM is good and 12v circuits in the computer are shorting to ground. Could you have damaged the wires to the oxygen sensor heater or could the plugs and the pins have melted by touching the header? Check out wiring and connections to all sensors.

[timpted]

Will do that right now, thank you wise one. :)

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Testing for codes may help you zero-in on the problem. Here's some background information on how ECMs operate:

Various inputs to the ECM are TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor, MAP Sensor, ECT Sensor, IAT Sensor, TP Sensor, HO2S, VSS, BARO Sensor, EGR Valve Lift Sensor, Starter Signal, Alternator FR Signal, Air Conditioning Signal, Automatic Transmission Shift Position Signal, Battery Voltage (Ignition 1) Brake Switch Signal, PSP Switch Signal, ELD, and VTEC Pressure Switch.

Inputs are received and processed by the ECM's Fuel Injector Timing and Duration, Electronic Idle Control, Other Control Functions, Ignition Timing Control, and ECM Back-up Functions. These are the primary functional areas within the ECM.

Outputs from the ECM control Fuel Injectors, PGM-FI Main Relay (Fuel Pump), MIL (Check Engine Light), Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, A/C Compressor Clutch Relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve, HO2S Heater, EGR Control Solenoid Valve, Alternator, Lock-up Solenoid Valve A/B (A/T), VTEC Solenoid Valve, and Interlock Control Unit.

[timpted]

Hey!! That's exactly what I have, melted wires coming off the plug that goes into the header, they weren't tied to anything and it looks like they wound up reasting on the side of the exhaust, I am working on getting all this fixed, I'll keep you posted. Thanks again. Kind of weird though, its almost as if you were here looking at the engine. Scaaaarrryyyy. :)

[TxGreaseMonkey]

Go with a Denso oxygen sensor:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post223376

[timpted]

Hey thanks you were right about the sensor, your trouble shooting ability is amazing and straight to the point, I feel like I should pay you something for your help, but I am short on money these days:(... This forum is fantastic, thanks again for your help. Tim