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hoser · Jul 2, 2008, 10:09 AM

Hello,

We have a house about a year and half old that is still under warranty. Our 2nd floor enclosed glass shower stall is leaking water on the ceiling of our kitchen. "Supposedly" the builder thought it might be faulty caulking around the shower. The caulking was replaced and there is still a water leak. The builder thinks it might be a proper seal on the glass - I doubt this. As well, I tested to see if I could simulate a leak by shoving a rag in the drain hole and running water till it was about an inch thick level and then letting it slowly drain. Still no leak. Only when you run water as you take a shower or run water without anyone being in the shower. I suspect that the shower was never properly installed when the house was built as the builder has missed other small "finishing items".

Thoughts/comments??

N0help4u · Jul 2, 2008, 10:45 AM

I had the same problem and it turned out to be the shower head itself. Once I changed the shower head no more problems.
Are you getting unwanted water besides the kitchen ceiling? If it is on the bathroom floor then it probably is the shower enclosure.
Keep calling them back until they fix it right since it is under warranty.

hoser · Jul 2, 2008, 10:51 AM

Originally Posted by N0help4u

I had the same problem and it turned out to be the shower head itself. Once I changed the shower head no more problems.
are you getting unwanted water besides the kitchen ceiling? If it is on the bathroom floor then it probably is the shower enclosure.
Keep calling them back until they fix it right since it is under warranty.

When you mean the shower head - do you mean where the water sprays out? I think it's just the original builder's faucet.

The water is on the bathroom floor. I'm not so sure it's the encloser - they have recaulked both the shower stall enclosure as well as between the baseboard and the floor and it is still leaking. My suspicion(s) - the shower was never properly installed - I'm sure the builder must know as the guy that came to re-caulk the shower stall said there was nothing wrong with the original caulking. The builder is avoiding the issue as they don't want to have to rip out a shower that they should have installed correctly in the 1st place.

N0help4u · Jul 2, 2008, 10:54 AM

Yeah I just unscrewed the shower head and replaced it.
Since it is on the floor it could be the enclosure. Tell them it would be more costly taking it through court to get it fixed and have water damage on top of it all than if they come and fix it right asap.

hoser · Jul 2, 2008, 11:02 AM

Originally Posted by N0help4u

Yeah I just unscrewed the shower head and replaced it.
Since it is on the floor it could be the enclosure. Tell them it would be more costly taking it through court to get it fixed and have water damage on top of it all than if they come and fix it right asap.

There are two faucets - one where the water comes out to "take a shower" and another faucet where water comes out like when you were take a bath in a "bathtub". There is already water staining - since the previous owner covered up the problem - we don't know the extent of the water damage - they may have to end up ripping out the entire ceiling and the bathroom floor anyhow - bunch of dolts:mad: - so am not so sure it's as simple as that.

N0help4u · Jul 2, 2008, 11:04 AM

Yeah I think you need to start threatening a lawsuit for repairs to shower AND water damage.

hoser · Jul 2, 2008, 11:06 AM

Originally Posted by N0help4u

Yeah I think you need to start threatening a lawsuit for repairs to shower AND water damage.

Not so sure I would go that far yet - but won't be using that shower again until it's completely fixed.

hkstroud · Jul 2, 2008, 02:42 PM

Before you try to fix this leak why don't you try to figure out where it is. Forget the builder. You will spend more effort trying to get him to fix it than fixing it yourself.

Close drain and fill tub. Look for leak. A leak at this time would almost have to be a leak in the faucet in the wall. No leak, fill tub to overflow. Check for leak. A leak now would be the tub overflow gasket. No leak open drain and let water out. Check for leak. A leak would be in the drain piping.
At home center purchase a 1/2 threaded iron pipe cap. Remove shower head from shower arm. Screw on cap. Does not have to be all that tight, just enough to stop the water flow. Its all right if it leaks a little. Turn on shower check for leak. A leak now means that the it is occurring where the shower arm screws into the ell of the shower riser pipe in the wall. To remove shower arm insert a large screw driver or a small rod of some type in end of the shower arm and unscrew by rotating the screwdriver in a circle. The screwdriver or rod increases the length of the bent part of the shower arm and gives you the leverage to unscrew it. You can use a pipe wrench but that will scratch up the finish. Coat the threads of the shower arm with a liberal coat of pipe thread joint compound. Reinstall. When reinstalling be aware that the shower arm must point down. As it begins to tighten decide whether you can make another full turn. If you get it as tight as you can but it does not point down, remove, re-coat and try again.

You really can skip all the other steps and do this one first, because it's a 90/50 chance that this is where the leak is.

N0help4u · Jul 2, 2008, 02:44 PM

Yeah I am thinking the pipe going into the shower head or the shower head since running the bath water doesn't cause this.
Wouldn't them fixing it themselves nullify the warranty?

hoser · Jul 2, 2008, 02:56 PM

Originally Posted by hkstroud

Before you try to fix this leak why don't you try to figure out where it is. Forget the builder. You will spend more effort trying to get him to fix it than fixing it your self.

Close drain and fill tub. Look for leak. A leak at this time would almost have to be a leak in the faucet in the wall. No leak, fill tub to overflow. Check for leak. A leak now would be the tub overflow gasket. No leak open drain and let water out. Check for leak. A leak would be in the drain piping.
At home center purchase a 1/2 threaded iron pipe cap. Remove shower head from shower arm. Screw on cap. Does not have to be all that tight, just enough to stop the water flow. Its alright if it leaks a little. Turn on shower check for leak. A leak now means that the it is occurring where the shower arm screws into the ell of the shower riser pipe in the wall. To remove shower arm insert a large screw driver or a small rod of some type in end of the shower arm and unscrew by rotating the screwdriver in a circle. The screwdriver or rod increases the length of the bent part of the shower arm and gives you the leverage to unscrew it. You can use a pipe wrench but that will scratch up the finish. Coat the threads of the shower arm with a liberal coat of pipe thread joint compound. Reinstall. When reinstalling be aware that the shower arm must point down. As it begins to tighten decide whether or not you can make another full turn. If you get it as tight as you can but it does not point down, remove, re-coat and try again.

You really can skip all the other steps and do this one first, because its a 90/50 chance that this is where the leak is.

Why would you try to fix it yourself when the home is under warranty - I know absolutely nothing about houses/construction - the shower stall is a separate unit from the bathtub... last time I looked I wasn't a plumber - thanks anyhow.

hkstroud · Jul 2, 2008, 07:47 PM

Originally Posted by hoser

There are two faucets - one where the water comes out to "take a shower" and another faucet where water comes out like when you were take a bath in a "bathtub".

Sorry my error but that sounds like a tub and shower.

Why do it yourself. Because it's easier on your blood pressure.

Milo Dolezal · Jul 2, 2008, 08:59 PM

1. Check your overflow. Make sure it is not loose. There should be a seal behind that presses against the tub. That makes the seal. The screws on overflow should be well (well) tighten.
2. Check your trim around your faucet. Make sure there are no gaps between tile and trim. If there are, caulk it.
3. See if there is no cap between spout and wall. Again, if positive, caulk it.

hoser · Jul 3, 2008, 02:28 AM

Originally Posted by N0help4u

.
Wouldn't them fixing it themselves nullify the warranty?

Exactly my point - if they can't fix this - then next steps would be to call in my own plumber and bill back the builder for the cost - but the builder has already cut into the ceiling so unlikely they would fix the ceiling hole if we went ahead on our own and tried to fix it.