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    rip-cord's Avatar
    rip-cord Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jun 28, 2008, 03:25 PM
    Baseboard Heater Wiring
    Hello, after reading quite a bit I thought I had this wrapped up but I guess I don't. I am trying to wire up some baseboard heaters for the garage. I have run a 12/2 from the panel on a 20 amp double pole breaker which goes to a double pole t-stat (I want to be able to completely shut off the heat). From there it goes to a junction box in the ceiling and down to two Dimplex heaters one on each side of the room. They are rated for 240V 2000W and I have connected both hot wires as instructed. The breaker does not trip and I hear the t-stat clicking but the heaters do not come on at all. I have taken them off and checked with my multi meter and I am getting 120V on each hot lead when I touch the ground and the white or the black and the ground or 240V together on both sides. Also both hot wires are going on and off with the t-stat. Is there a fail in the units or something that is tripped? I am not sure what is wrong. All I can think is that both heaters are faulty.

    Any help is appreciated.
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #2

    Jun 28, 2008, 04:10 PM
    Darryl,

    You should see 120 VAC from Black to ground and 120 VAC from White to Ground. 240 VAC should be seen between Black and White. There is no Neutral.

    Take the thermostat out of the circuit and turn the heaters on. If they work as promised, then you have a physical problem with the thermostat.
    rip-cord's Avatar
    rip-cord Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jun 28, 2008, 04:43 PM
    I do see 120V on each but not 240V between the white and black. I did take the t-stat out and same issue it would not come on. It was hard wired right to the breaker.
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #4

    Jun 28, 2008, 05:00 PM
    You need to go back to the Circuit breaker and make sure that Black leg of the cable goes to one breaker. The white lead has to go to another Breaker. Mark both ends of the white wire with black tape or paint to signify that it is an ungrounded conductor and not a Neutral grounded conductor.

    Bare ground must go to a ground bus, assuming that there is one in the box.
    rip-cord's Avatar
    rip-cord Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #5

    Jun 28, 2008, 05:19 PM
    That is what I did, so if that is the case what am I doing wrong? There is nothing left to rule out.
    Missouri Bound's Avatar
    Missouri Bound Posts: 1,532, Reputation: 94
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    #6

    Jun 28, 2008, 07:57 PM
    Any chance you can draw your wiring diagram and post that? Do you have 240 volts at each heater? (with or without the thermostat in place)
    Seeing what you did would be a great help in diagnosing.
    rip-cord's Avatar
    rip-cord Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #7

    Jun 29, 2008, 10:38 AM
    Today I bypassed everything to rule it all out and wired the heater directly to the panel just to see if it would come on. No go, then I had an idea and I wired it up as per the directions and checked the voltage at the other end of the heater only 120V not 240V. When I check at the panel I get 120V on each line but when I put them together I still only get 120V should I not be getting 240V now? If I ground either the black or white to the ground the breaker trips so I know that is working. I have attached a diagram it is a little rough but I think you get the idea.

    Why am I not getting 240V through the heater? I have gone back to home depot to make sure I have the right breaker. Double pole 20A Federal Pioneer breaker for my box.

    This is frustrating I have wired our whole basement on 120V and had the electrical inspector come in and pass it no problem but this simple heater connection is driving me nuts!
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    Missouri Bound's Avatar
    Missouri Bound Posts: 1,532, Reputation: 94
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    #8

    Jun 29, 2008, 11:02 AM
    It's possible both of your breaker legs are on the same side of the buss. Can you move a single breaker over so that your 2 pole is across both of the buss bars? Check for voltage right at the breaker, if you have 120 then you need to move it over to connect to both buss.
    rip-cord's Avatar
    rip-cord Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #9

    Jun 29, 2008, 12:39 PM
    Interesting I never thought of that, I will give it a shot. I looked at the other double breakers for the Range and Dryer and they seem to be installed the same way but that could be the problem. I will let you know.
    rip-cord's Avatar
    rip-cord Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #10

    Jun 29, 2008, 01:21 PM
    No go, there is a divider between each two section so you can't move it up one slot. I have attached a pic. I think I am going to have to call an electrician as much as I hate to.

    I have circled the new breaker in the pic.

    Darryl
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    smearcase's Avatar
    smearcase Posts: 2,392, Reputation: 316
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    #11

    Jun 29, 2008, 02:22 PM
    I am not a pro but I know there is a type of breaker that has two switches but it is made to create two circuits within the space normally occupied by one breaker, which results in two adjacent breakers on one pahse and thus only 120v. Could you have purchased a breaker with two switches, but both on same phase? You would get a reading from each leg to ground.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #12

    Jun 29, 2008, 02:51 PM
    Look again. The green handled breaker appears to be contacting the alternate busses.
    What size it the black handled breaker?
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #13

    Jun 29, 2008, 03:16 PM
    How about using two separate breakers instead of one. If you use two on one breaker, you will not get the phase separation that you need.
    Missouri Bound's Avatar
    Missouri Bound Posts: 1,532, Reputation: 94
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    #14

    Jun 29, 2008, 06:16 PM
    Which breaker are you using for the heaters? I see some that are not two pole, just two circuits on the same pole.
    stanfortyman's Avatar
    stanfortyman Posts: 5,598, Reputation: 279
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    #15

    Jun 29, 2008, 06:26 PM
    That breaker in the pic is installed wrong. It is clearly contacting the SAME buss stab and NOT both as it should be. Move it up 1/2 space and it will work fine.
    donf's Avatar
    donf Posts: 5,679, Reputation: 582
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    #16

    Jun 30, 2008, 06:52 AM
    Thank you!
    rip-cord's Avatar
    rip-cord Posts: 15, Reputation: 1
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    #17

    Jun 30, 2008, 03:05 PM
    There is a divider there I can't move it up half a space I would have to break the plastic. Is that OK to remove so I can move it up one? If not is is OK to use two sperate breakers, somehow that seems wrong.
    stanfortyman's Avatar
    stanfortyman Posts: 5,598, Reputation: 279
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    #18

    Jun 30, 2008, 03:33 PM
    If that is a true skinny two-pole FPE breaker there HAS to be a spot that it fits in that panel.
    stanfortyman's Avatar
    stanfortyman Posts: 5,598, Reputation: 279
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    #19

    Jun 30, 2008, 03:34 PM
    You may need to exchange that skinny one for a full size one like the big double black one on the bottom left.
    PPC's Avatar
    PPC Posts: 28, Reputation: 1
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    #20

    Feb 11, 2010, 01:03 PM

    Hi rip-cord

    I assume you figured out long ago the problem. As stanfortyman stated try to move up one space. You have to be connected across that plastic divider with those smaller FPE breakers to get the 240V. I have two or three FPE panels here and those 2-pole smaller breakers will go across the plastic divider without breaking it. Did you look at the clearance behind the breaker or try it?

    Hopefully your all good by now anyway!

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