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skim325 · Jun 12, 2008, 07:53 PM

Hey all.
I drive a 1999 Honda Civic.
Well, technically I really don't drive it anymore... which I think where my problem stems from.

The battery on the car died a couple weeks ago, and remained dead for probably 1.5 weeks or so, till I got around to attempting to start it up, and keep it alive, which I have been doing for the last 5 months or so. Basically, long story short, have been attempting to move/drive the car for about 20 minutes or so 1-2 times a week.

Anyway, I'm trying to sell the car now, and went to go get an emission test on the vehicle.
The emissions test center associate told me they couldn't run the test because somehow the CPU in the car had lost all it's codes and doesn't have any records of having recorded a complete drive cycle.

So here's my problem. I can't get the emission test done until the CPU completes a drive cycle. I don't know what's required to complete a drive cycle on my particular car, and have been told that typically it's different for every car, and remains a mystery as to what is needed for the CPU to complete a drive cycle. Does anyone have any insight on how I could do that or any success stories on what they did in their particular case?

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

-Sam

Freeflyda · Jun 12, 2008, 08:12 PM

You need to take her out for a ride on the highway. Most of those tests are performed while you are cruising at a fairly constant speed... I would suggest a good 10-15min drive with cruise control @ or above 50mph. Every time you disconnect the battery the tests will need to be performed again... this is why your CEL (check engine light) may go off when you disconnect the battery but then come back on after you drive around town

skim325 · Jun 16, 2008, 07:29 AM

Hey, thanks so much for the answer. I'm going to try that out today.

-Skim

skim325 · Jun 18, 2008, 08:59 PM

Originally Posted by Freeflyda

you need to take her out for a ride on the highway. most of those tests are performed while you are cruising at a fairly constant speed....I would suggest a good 10-15min drive with cruise control @ or above 50mph. every time you disconnect the battery the tests will need to be performed again...this is why your CEL (check engine light) may go off when you disconnect the battery but then come back on after you drive around town

OK, so after driving the car foe a couple days, the CPU in the car had still not recorded any complete drive cycles. I went to schucks to get the battery tested, and it was virtually discharged. Despite the fact that the car was starting and running perfectly fine I bought a new battery since there seems to be a corrollationbetween a discharged battery and the CPU retaining certain information. Anyone else think this could be a deciding factor as well? I guess well find out for sure tomorrow morning as I am going to try and get it tested again. Of course I'm going to have to drive around for a bit first.

P.s. Sorry for any spelling erors. Types all this on my phone