I am house-sitting and cannot locate the manual and don't have the serial number for the Maytag refrigerator in the house.
The Model is MSD2456GE taken off the right door of this side-by-side refrigerator. The center panel edge, the one that the doors close up against, is very warm. Too hot in fact to hold a hand against for more than 2 seconds. The question being, is this normal for this model?
I will be going back tomorrow, early, to get the serial number and download the user guide (if available) from the Maytag site and also I will call them.
Anything before then would be fantastic.

Thank you

I don't understand that. Some refrigerators have the coils in the side which get fairly warm. I wouldn't think there would be coils there unless the tubing runs through there on its way to the side. It is too far away to be heat from the motor. Is the refrigerator properly grounded? I am surprised how many people leave the 2 prong adapter that comes with it on the 3 prong plug, and plug it into a 3 prong outlet defeating the important safety feature. If so, wait until the refrigerator is off, remove the 2 prong adapter, plug the plug directly into the 3 prong outlet. That way, if there is a short, the next time the refrigerator starts up, it will kick the breaker off. In the mean time, do ot touch the refrigerator and anything grounded. Look at the other appliances such as the washer. Removing improperly installed 2 prong adapters, could save your friend's life. When used, 2 prong adapters need to be screwed to the cover plate.

You might also check with a Maytag dealer.

One more thing, it may be hot because it is working too hard because it needs defrosted or the external coils cleaned.

Now that the time is decent, I was able to phone the Maytag help line.
The center wall is supposed to be warm as it prevents condensation between the two walls. Strange odd engineering if you ask me.
The person who owns the unit is well aware of grounding issues and would not improperly install the unit. Additionally coils were examined and there is no defrosting blockage or build-up.
Once they return I will verify this with them, but thank you for the caution, I can't stand adapters myself.

Something is wrong. The panel shouldn't need to be too hot to touch to stop condensation.

A properly installed adapter where the frame of the outlet is grounded, is much better than cutting the ground prong off. Unfortunately, in older houses with 2 prong outlets, there may not be any ground to adapt to.

By the way, does anybody know why they still sell 2 prong outlets? Are they required by code for work lacking a ground? Otherwise, I can't think of where a 3 prong wouldn't be just as good, and the price can't make much difference. I think at places such as Lowe's they are the same price.

The center mullion divider (regardless of freezer/refrigerator configuration) always has some type of heating mechanism. It is not to stop condensation in the wall, it is to stop condensation on the surface that you can touch, usually color-coordinated with the unit's exterior. Some units have low-wattage electric elements behind the mullion cover, and will usually have a switch on the refrigerator control panel that speaks of energy consumption or humidity conditions. Other units have what is referred to as a "Yoder Loop". It is simply an extension of the condenser coil that warms the surface of the metal. In an MSD####*** refrigerator, it is a yoder loop. When the surface of the metal gets so hot you can't touch it, it means one of two things has happened. Either the condenser coil has become obstructed and air isn't moving under the unit (which you can find at the left-rear corner behind the black cardboard cover), or the condenser fan motor that creates the air movement has stopped running. Believe me, it is in no way shape or form a hazard to any occupant of the house, electrically or otherwise. Eventually, the compressor will get so hot, it will simply cease to function temporarily), and then you will lose all your food and ice. Better to deal with it sooner than later, and fortunately this model uses a completely standard condenser fan motor, readily available at any appliance repair center. Cheers.

Hi,

We just took delivery last Thursday from Lowe's on a side-by-side Whirlpool Gold fridge. Here's the closest I can find of the unit: (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...XNQ&lpage=none)

The delivery folks prepped it and gave us a quick tutorial on operation including procedure for the first 24 hrs. When we were putting food in the fridge the next day, we noticed that the frame was hot! Not warm but hot. The magnetic strip was also hot probably due to heat transfer from the frame.

We also noticed that the fridge isn't really cold even after being set to the highest setting to make it as cold as possible during the 1st 24 hrs.

Now here's what makes our situation a little different from the original post. During delivery of the fridge, the delivery folks noted that there is a dent on the top right edge of the unit (refrigerator side & not the freezer side). It is about 2 inches tall, 6 inches wide, and 2 inches deep.

The delivery folks asked us if we wanted it or get another one. The problem however is that the only other unit at the store is the floor model with bad scratches on the side that will be visible. When my wife called the store, they confirmed that the only unit they have is indeed the floor model with scratches. They offered a 20% price reduction plus the extended warranty for free.

We were still leary because we are not familiar with the construction of the fridge and what lies beneath the area that is dented. We asked the delivery folks and they said that it is just insulation under the area that is dented and shouldn't affect operation of the unit.

With much trepidation, we accepted the dented unit.

After a couple of days, we've decided to call Lowe's and asked them to replace it. They referred us to an 888 number where they said we have 30 days to accept or reject it but they have to send a tech first to see if the problem is fixable. They gave us a couple of authorized service centers to do warranty work. We've called and left messages over the weekend. No call backs yet. :(

** Do you guys think the dent has something to do with the hot door frame issue?

** Is the dent related to the fridge not cooling properly?

** Should we turn it off altogether to prevent possible further damage to the unit?

Thanks and would appreciate the collective wisdom.

r,
eagle

Haven't seen applguy for a while. He seemed to know more than me. I do know some refrigerators have coils in the side. Dent the side and crimp a coil inside, and it isn't going to work like it should. Lean on Lowe's to A fix it, B replace it, or C return your money before the 30 days is up.

Thanks labman.

We're hoping they can fix it. If not, we will ask for a replacement or a refund.

Do you think it has something to do with the fridge not cooling the fridge also?

Thanks,
eagle

Unfortunately, factories do not furnish information about exactly where system tubing is located within the insulation, but I do know that all the lines (which usually follow a straight path) that are embedded in the cabinet extend down and come out on the freezer side of the unit in the back. It is highly unlikely that there are any lines along the top edge of the fresh food side wall. When any cooling system is operating, it's goal is not to make anything "colder". Point of fact, there is no such thing as "colder". There is simply heat present or lack thereof. So, to make a long story shorter, when a refrigerator (of freezer) is installed and connected to power, the compressor system is activated to remove most of the heat load from within the compartments. The heat that is absorbed by the refrigerant system is transmitted by the compressor to the outside of the cabinet where the heat is released back into the room. It is entirely likely that there isn't anything wrong with it at all. I will say though, if the side is dented, the product was not handled correctly. There may be something binding the condenser fan motor, keeping it from running. If the mullion is hot, the compressor is running. If the compressor is running, AND the mullion is hot, there is an airflow issue underneath the unit. The condenser is getting way too hot. You should feel a slight amount of air going toward the rear of the unit on the right half of the grille under the doors. You should also feel a slightly stronger air stream coming back out on the left side of the same grille. If not, you can pull it out and take out the 1/4 inch screws holding the cover on the back of the unit and see if the fan is unplugged or maybe something in the blade stopping it from turning. If the cover isn't there, that would also create this problem. Don't go any farther than this, and don't let anyone know you did it. These are simple things you can try in hopes of getting some refrigeration until the call can be made; who knows, maybe you can fix it and simply cancel the call. If not, make sure you put the cover back on before they arrive. Oh, make sure you unplug it before doing anything (wouldn't want you to get lit up). Hope I have helped. As a side note, you did make one of the best choices in a refrigerator under $1500.00.

Hi applguy,

Thanks for the detailed reply. I feel better now about the dent.

At any rate, the tech finally arrived and it took him just a few minutes to diagnose the problem. He went straight to the fan. There was a piece of cardboard that was blocking the fan from spinning. He removed the cardboard to release the fan. He said that it should take care of the heat on the door frame.

He said the heat should subside/disappear after about 8 hrs of operation.

Will keep you apprised.

Thanks again.

r,
eagle

Hi,

After a few days, we noticed that the frame would be warm and cold at various times of the day. Is that normal?

r,
eagle

The center mullion will be warm anytime the compressor is running. The yoder loop behind the center mullion metal is an extension of the condenser coil under the unit. That is the coil that dissipates the heat back into the room that it removes from the interior. Warm temperatures are completely normal.

Thanks!

We feel better about it now.

Appreciate your help and your patience. :)

r,
eagle

It is normal to a degree because the hot gas line from the compressor is routed around the freezer door to keep ice from forming. You may need to clean coils under the refrigerator, however, if they are dirty because dirty coils will make it quit working. DrTom4444

I do not think the dent has any bearing on the operation of the refrigerator. If the dent was on the edge by the freezer I would be concerned, but since it is on the refrigerator side there should be no refrigerant line there to be restricted by the dent. If the refrigerator is not getting cold enough that is an airflow issue which is solved by adjusting the air vent from the freezer coil. You should have directions on adjusting this. It takes 24 hours for each change to have an effect. I would keep the refrigerator. DrTom4444

This is normal, but you need to check under the refrigerator for dirt clogging the coils. Dirt will cause it to burn up a compressor. DrTom4444

A big thanks to applguy for his answer and to simmonsp for asking the question. Its 11pm in Australia, did a quick search, found these answers and 25 minutes later we're all done and dusted. We had exactly the same problem as the initial poster had. The VERY hot dividing panel between the fridge and freezer. You could smell a mild hot electrical smell as well in our kitchen. I did what applguy suggested and sure enough there is a coil and a fan behind the black cardboard at the rear outside of the fridge. I turned off the power, removed the cardboard and quickly saw a mouse had pulled a wooden skewer into the area and one end had got caught, stopping the fan. Whist there we brushed and vaccuumed the dust from the opposite end of the coil that was building up. Its as good as new. Quickly the temp on the panel dropped after turning back on. Now to catch the mouse! There you go, ten years on and this question and answer is still helping people. A thousand thankyous! Cheers

Thanks for this answer! It helped me find a blocked coil fan blade at the rear on our Maytag fridge. Its as good as gold now and cooling quickly! I owe you a beer! Very happy! Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by applguy

The center mullion divider (regardless of freezer/refrigerator configuration) always has some type of heating mechanism. It is not to stop condensation in the wall, it is to stop condensation on the surface that you can touch, usually color-coordinated with the unit's exterior. Some units have low-wattage electric elements behind the mullion cover, and will usually have a switch on the refrigerator control panel that speaks of energy consumption or humidity conditions. Other units have what is referred to as a "Yoder Loop". It is simply an extension of the condenser coil that warms the surface of the metal. In an MSD####*** refrigerator, it is a yoder loop. When the surface of the metal gets so hot you can't touch it, it means one of two things has happened. Either the condenser coil has become obstructed and air isn't moving under the unit (which you can find at the left-rear corner behind the black cardboard cover), or the condenser fan motor that creates the air movement has stopped running. Believe me, it is in no way shape or form a hazard to any occupant of the house, electrically or otherwise. Eventually, the compressor will get so hot, it will simply cease to function temporarily), and then you will lose all your food and ice. Better to deal with it sooner than later, and fortunately this model uses a completely standard condenser fan motor, readily available at any appliance repair center. Cheers.

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