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Hi,
I am helping my parents remodel their home. This is scary since I am learning as I go.
I am installing a shower stall upstairs in what used to be a closet. I was told you have to set the fiberglass shower base in concrete. I needed to know if this is necessary. I have seen it done with 2 x 4's and shims. I'm hoping there will be no concrete involved.
Also, is it O.K. to vent the shower exhaust fan out the wall instead of the ceiling?
Help and Thanks!
Kris
Hi Kris,Quote:
Originally Posted by bunkykp
We don't set the shower pans in my area but id you need help with the plumbing end I'm your guy in the meantime here's something that may interest you.
Full Version : Shower pan installation
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pdwilly10-29-2004, 10:09 AM
I am in the middle of a remodel of the master bath. I have a Kohler shower receptor (pan) that is ready for installation. I have relocated the drain, trap (ABS). The trap aligns well with the pan (not glued up yet). The Kohler install instructions say nothing of laying a mortar bed under the pan is this a necessity? Is thinset mortar OK for this purpose, and how large should the mortar bed be? Also, the brass fitting in the pan has been installed using silicone under the flange, the rubber seal and then the fiber seal on the underside all tightened up. Does this sound correct? This is a second floor bath with no access from below.
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Terry10-29-2004, 10:46 AM
Some pans don't require anything under them.
If the pan is flat on the floor, it's fine.
If there are gaps under the pan, you can use a filler to fill the void.
We mainly use fillers under deck installed tubs, these are hanging in space from the edges over space. Filling the space there makes them solid and supports the tub from the bottom.
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pdwilly10-29-2004, 12:54 PM
Thanks, Terry
I just checked with Kohler to be sure. They claim that a mortar bed is not required on the smaller shower pans.(34X48) Just make sure its level and lay 30# felt on the subfloor before installing to reduce any squeeking.
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jadnashua10-29-2004, 01:22 PM
It's not so much a required thing as a desirable thing. If you can, place the pan on a clean flat surface prior to installing it. Take your socks and shoes off. Walk on the top of the thing. If you can feel it deflect/flex at all, you'll be happier if you fill in the voids under it to make it solid. If you can't feel anything move/flex, then don't bother with trying to impove it. The warranty should be the same either way - if the manufacturer says it is not needed.
Plumbers often use both teflon tape AND pipe dope on a threaded connection; either one should do the job on its own, but both usually means an absolutely bulletproof connection.
If you did do this, you'd use a sand/cement mix; not thinset.
A pro can give the specific details if you decide you want to go this route, or check over at www.johnbridge.com for some useful reading on tiling.
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pdwilly10-29-2004, 04:25 PM
Thanks for the guidance. I took off my shoes and just like you said... the movement feels lousy. Sounds like cement and sand and a touch of lime and lay it down set the pan and be done with it.
Thanks
Pete
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If you need assistance in plumbing click on back but I'm sure some of the other experts have more first hand knowledge about setting a base then I have. Guys?
You may exhaust the fan out the wall . Since hot air raises it's important to keep it as high up on the wall as possible. Good luck, Tom
Thanks for the advise!
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