Ask Me Help Desk - Removing anode rod...

... from a hot water heater shouldn't be this tough? Is there some trick or tool that I need? I put a monkey wrench on it, put a pipe in the wrench and can't budge it; the water heater is rocking but the rod won't come lose. (I have no idea how long it's been in there.)

Should I drill a hole down the center?

Thanks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by adlowe

...from a hot water heater shouldn't be this tough? Is there some trick or tool that I need? I put a monkey wrench on it, put a pipe in the wrench and can't budge it; the water heater is rocking but the rod won't come lose. (I have no idea how long it's been in there.)

Should I drill a hole down the center?

Thanks.

Don't drill any holes. You'll only have to replace that oversized nut.
Try squirting some WD40 under the lip and try to lube the threads. Now attach a pipe wrench to the nut and take a heavy hammer and use the pipe wrench like a impact wrench and see if you can't break it free that way. Failing all that, rent a electric impact wrench like the ones they use in tire shops and see if that won't free up that stubborn nut. Good luck, Tom

A little patience may help too. I don't think you want WD-40 in your water. Some ordinary cooking oil might do better. Put a little at the top of the thread, tap the nut lightly and let it set a day or 2. A hammer and chisel at the edge in the direction to unscrew works well too. Limit the violence, the tank is glass lined. Once it turns at all, work it back and forth, applying more oil.

Thanks.

I'm going to try some olive oil, "love taps" and patience first. (The WD40 should be no problem even if it gets into the tank -- I think the stuff is even edible.)

Quote:

Originally Posted by speedball1

Failing all that, rent a electric impact wrench like the ones they use in tire shops and see if that won't free up that stubborn nut.

I've got a pneumatic impact wrench in the garage. I wouldn't want to drag my compressor down the stairs but I could probably run it off a portable tank. But I don't think I've got a socket big enough. That's an issue for Saturday now.

Good advice above, and I will add 2 things. One a socket that fits it will be best. Two you will probably move the heater in the process if you put enough leverage on your wrench so you need to counter balance it by holding one of the brass inlet or outlet pipe nipples on top. This could get nasty. Pay attention to where the handles can go if they fly off or slip, so that you don't nail yourself. Welcome to the world of plumbing repair. The alternative is to get a new heater and this time loosen that anode rod before you install the heater. Oh one more thing, that anode rod you have was probably zinc material about 5/8" o. d. but now it will either be about 1" o. d. or the size of a wire depending on how the corrosion stages are going. If you want to successfully change those rods out without losing the corrosive material that has attached to them you need to change them out anually. And also the rods are about 30" long. If you don't have 30" above the heater (workspace) you may need to bend the old one to get it out and cut the new one to fit to get it in. Well that about sums it up. Good luck.
Darrel

Finally got it done. That was NOT fun!

Did not have a big enough socket so I stayed with the pipe wrench.

Olive oil didn't work -- probably too thick to penetrate. WD40 did the trick but it took several applications: Sunday and wait 2 days... Tuesday and wait 2 days... and today it moved. I thought that I was just mangling the "nut" but after some extra careful watching I recognized that it was finally turning. Careful positioning of the pipe wrench and taps on the handle with the hammer did the trick.

After I got it loosened, I put a 10" pipe on the handle of the wrench (for extra leverage) and worked it out slowly. Let lots of air into the system -- I had the water pressure turned off and the tank drain open (into a bucket) because I didn't want hot water spraying in my face. The old rod was just a wire without a trace of zinc, aluminum or magnesium in sight. It must have been in there a looonnnggg time.

The new one (42 inches long) went in without any fuss. It doesn't sit as low on the top of the tank as the old one did but it is as secure as I can get it and no water is leaking out. I'll keep checking it for the next couple of days to be sure.

Since the old rod was dissolved away, I'm guessing that I can get by with changing it every 3 years. I've been draining about a gallon from the bottom of the water heater every month; only been getting a small bit of granular sediment -- maybe a tablespoon or two -- since the second time. (The first time I got a good portion of cup --maybe 1/3 or more.) Any thoughts?

Thank you speedball1, labman and darrell1953!! I could never have gotten this done without the help.

One last point. Did you put anything on the threads? Teflon tape, Anti-Seize, most pipe dopes,etc. could make a big difference the next time. Might even be worth taking it out again now andputting something on it.