Last year I had an electritian run a 220 line for me so I could get a nice size all a/c unit to cool the living room and dining room area. I just started to look for a unit and I am very confused.

It maybe me but I am feeling overwelmed with things like

# 10 wire (I have no idea)
The plugs all look different
And what is 230 v I thought I was looking for 220

I know I am totally clueless and probably should have asked him all these things when he was here, but I had no Idea it would be so involved.

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Originally Posted by mns2lv4ever

Last year I had an electritian run a 220 line for me so I could get a nice size all a/c unit to cool the living room and dining room area. I just started to look for a unit and I am very confused.

It maybe me but I am feeling overwelmed with things like

# 10 wire (I have no idea)
the plugs all look different
and what is 230 v I thought I was looking for 220

I know I am totally clueless and probably should have asked him all these things when he was here, but I had no Idea it would be so involved.

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Choose a unit based on the square footgae of the areas you want to cool, also consider whether the unit / area is upstairs or downstairs, as to the 220V, 230V, they are meant to be the same, as to to the outlet's prongs design, you can change the outlet easliy to match the prong's on the unit you choose by visiting Lowe's, Home Depot and changing the outlet to match the cord.

The electrician should have matched the breaker, the wire, and the outlet. Each component is rated for a certain amperage, and never should be used with more than 80% of that value. Start with going to the breaker box and locating the breaker the electrician installed. A careful worker would have complied with code and labeled it. If not, it may be the only double pole breaker not on the list on the door of the panel. A double pole breaker is twice as big as the others and if it has 2 handles, they are linked together. If it says 30 on it, you have the #10 wire you need. If it only says 20 on it, you are limited to units of no more than about 3500 watts. That is still a large window unit.

The different plugs are specifically designed to protect you from overloading a circuit. Your only protection here from the bad, dangerous advice, such as changing the plug, is for other members to point it out. Although it would be OK to put a 30 amp plug on a 3500 watt appliance, Richardbondman failed to point out the danger of putting a 15-20 amp plug on a 30 amp one.

We have tkrussel on this forum, an highly competent electrician. Because he knows much more than I do, since he joined, I usually have limited posting to this forum to threads where somebody that knows less than I do, has posted a bad or confusing answer. I think the people asking questions would be better off if people were more careful about answering questions.

Thank you for the response I looked at the breaker and it is marked with 20, I don't mess with electricity unless I have to plug something in or unplug it so I will not be changing anything unless I pay someone to do it.

So if it says 20 what # wire do I have? Would you know that or is that something you would have to look at to know ?

This will be going on the main floor of the house through the wall and I need it for 950 sq ft.

Also what is the difference between a Perpendicular Plug and a Large Tandem Plug

With a 20 amp breaker, most likely you have #12 wires, which are smaller than #10, and a 20 amp, 230 volt outlet. As I said, that allows up to a 16 amp or 3500 watt unit. The plug should match unless you select a smaller unit. The whole system is designed to protect you from overloaded circuits or the wrong voltage. If you plugged your vacuum cleaner into the A/C outlet, it would fry it. You can't because the plug won't fit.

One more ? I found one I line that reads 220 Volt 15 Amp Dedicated Circuit is it OK to use it, if it says 15 Amp since it is less then the 20? Or would it have to read 220 volt 20 Amp Dedicated Circuit .

Just trying not to burn the house down by plugging something in lol

I am confused. What says 15 amp dedicated circuit? You can use a 15 amp appliance on a 20 amp circuit. It that case, it would be OK to change the plug or outlet. Wire, breakers, and outlets have maximum ratings. It is fine to use lighter loads on them.

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Originally Posted by labman

I am confused. What says 15 amp dedicated circuit?

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That was on the description for the a/c unit I was looking at

Everything should be fine except the plug may not fit. You have a dedicated 20 amp circuit. That means nothing else is on that circuit and it can be used with anything that draws up to 16 amps, the 80% safety margin of 20 amps. You can use a 15 amp A/C on a 20 amp circuit but not a 30 amp A/C. If the plug doesn't match the outlet, it is no big deal to change it. As I said in my first post, going the other way is a problem. It may be easier to change the outlet than the plug. It is no big deal for anybody that can shut the breaker off before they start. If you have to, and want to tackle it, post back.

I want to clarify my ansswer. I NEVER said change the "PLUG" and by plug I mean the plug that comes attached to the unit you eventually purchase. I clearly stated you could change the OUTLET to match the prongs on the unit. I perhaps also should have added that you could select a unit that has a cord that has prongs that match your installed electrical outlet. That way you would not have to change the OUTLET on the wall to match the prongs. Also, you said "I hired an electriCan to run a 220 line so i could get a nice size all a/c unit to cool the living / dining room area" and it appears to me that you advised the electrician of your intentions to install a rather large AC unit so I have to assume he knew what he was doing. I took time to look for the largest window uniit at Sears.com, found a 25,000 BTU unit that takes a 220V source and it only draws less than 2800 watts so the issue that was mentioned in another answer that you received that mentioned me "failing to point out the danger of putting a 15-20 amp plug on a 30 amp one" seems irrelevant to me. It was a pretty cut and dry question you had... you were confused about 1) #10 wire - quite frankly, it's not an issue, you wanted to cool a living /dining area, thus needed a relatively small ac unit, not a tremendously large unit and your electrician installed a 220V source - 2) the fact that the plugs "all look different" - and I understand they do to a consumer -- simple fact is that the prongs on the end of the cord need to fit your outlet - it's that simple and finally your last concern 3) you or someone or some literature mentioned 230V and you thought you had 220V - essentially, they are the same. Therefore, I firmly believed, and still do, that my suggestion that you simply change the outlet to match the pongs is still a valid solution. I perhaps should have also suggested that you simply purchase a unit whose prongs on the end of the cord match your installed outlet. I am sorry I did not mention that alternative and for that, I do apologize.

Richard,

I hope your not upset I appericiate your help I was not trying to be rude by saying that "I don't mess with electricity unless I have to plug something in or unplug it so I will not be changing anything unless I pay someone to do it." I was just stating the obvious on my end that this is not something I am capable of doing.

I'm sorry if I offended you

No you absolutely did not offend me. It was an answer you received that mentioned me as failing to point out something and also that noted that members giving answers should essentially should not give bad advice. I didn't think I gave you bad advice rather I honestly should have suggested that you find a unit whose prongs fit your installed outlet. That would have been much easier than you attempting to change the outlet and less expensive for you to call the electrician again. The other answer you received, I honestly believe, brought up issues that I believe were and still are, irrelevant though well intentioned. But absolutely no, you did not offend me at all. And I would be remiss if I didn't let you know I think it was very considerate of you to ask.

Everyone,
The issues brought up on Plugs, Wire and Breakers were ALL Very, Very Helpful to me.
I typed in the 'Question' into Dogpile Browser:
"What wire size is needed for a 220/230 volt window air conditioner?"

The Answer received:
"That depends on the current draw of the AC unit."
If it's pulling Over 30 AMPS you'll need a 40 AMP breaker and 8 GA wire.
If it's pulling Over 20 AMPS you'll need a 30 AMP breaker and 10 GA wire.
If it's pulling [U]UNDER 20 AMPS you'll need a 20 AMP breaker and 12 GA wire.
If it's pulling OVER 40 amps... hire an electrician.

Then with ALL I read Here it was plain I was doing GOOD :)

I am not in the same position as the person asking the 'Original Question' as I Do Not have a Plug Installed at ALL and can get the type needed, but it still made me get up and go look at the one I bought. Excellent tipster ;)

I then checked the gauge of the wire I had at the electrical plug box as the wires are right there. I used a .001" dial callipers to check the Wire Diameter and it was .080 which = 12 gauge wire.
So with the New Kenmore 25,000 BTU A/C Unit mentioned here and the 'Specifications' supplied by 'Sears' I was able to make a prudent decision that with 'My 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire and the New Kenmore' with it pulling only 12 amps when cooling and a 18 Max. 'Start-Up Load' I am feeling 'Very Good' about just installing the unit with 'ZERO' Problems thanks to EVERYONE HERE on this thread.

The Best,
Respectfully,
Dan

PS: - I also wondered about the voltage variance of 220/230 - strange - maybe a tolerance factor? Hummm, I wonder :\

PS: - I also wondered about the voltage variance of 220/230 - strange - maybe a tolerance factor? Hummm, I wonder :\ [/QUOTE]

Glad this thread helped you. To answer your question, "220" p

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Originally Posted by Kyle_in_rure

PS: - i also wondered about the voltage variance of 220/230 - strange - maybe a tolerance factor? hummm, i wonder :\

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Glad this thread helped you, to answer your question' "220" power In the u.s. is technically 240 volts, but this covers any voltage from 220-250. So 220, 230, and 240 volt appliances are basically the same thing.