My honda will not show any indicator lights on the ecu, I bought a new ecu and I'm still showing no indicator lights. I took off the distributer, and changed that brown relay(ignitor maybe?), same thing, the check engine light stays on, I do not hear the fuel pump, I do hear the main relay click. I am getting power to the computer, and I've tried 3 different distributers.. I also have no headlights, but I do have side markers and hazards, the car is a birthday present for my girlfriend, rims body kit the whole jazz.. PLEASE HELP!Thanks in Advance!! :o
Jerry

Check all under-dash (most likely) and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter. Here's how:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post252145

Be sure and test the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse, which controls power to the main relay's first relay. The first relay controls power to the ECM, power to the fuel injectors, and power for the second relay. You should be up and running in no time.

If it's not a bad fuse, which I think it is, then perform the tests outlined below:

https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-t...tml#post358044

Where is the ACG ALT fuse, also I only hear 2 clicks from the main relay, last one is suppose to initiate the fuel pump, I think?

Thanks
Jerry

With a test light or multimeter, you can test all under-dash and under-hood fuses in 3 minutes. It may be fuse no. 12 or 24. Honda gives you several spare fuses in the box. The ACG (ALT) (S) fuse is 15 A.

Does it run?

The car is almost firing, I put some gas down the spark tunnel, and she's almost going.. but I still don't hear the fuel pump and I'm posative it's the fuel relay. I just can't find it. Can you tell where that might be? Been a great help so far Thanks again
Jerry

Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then go out? Here's where the main relay is located for your Civic:

Honda Civic main relay Location

Turning the key on and off will help you locate it. It's normally mounted with a 10 mm bolt. Remove the lower dash cover and fuse box cover to gain greater access.

If need be, jump terminals 5 and 7 on the connector to the main relay; then, you should hear the fuel pump run, when you turn the key to ON.

If the CEL does not go out, the problem is with a fuse, main relay, ignition switch, or ECM. Run your tests in that order.

Yes now that I've changed that fuse it comes on then goes out. Before it stayed on...

Great. Now your chances of getting it to run are greatly improved. Do you hear the fuel pump run for 2 seconds, while the CEL is on?

That's my problem, I think it's the fuel pump relay that's mighgt be gone... so no I don't hear it... :S

First, try jumping terminals 5 and 7 going to the main relay connector, to confirm the fuel pump works. If the fuel pump runs, then I would replace the PGM-FI Main Relay. I normally recommend replacing them every 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first. They are a very problematic (and important) component.

Now that the CEL comes on and then goes out, check for codes.

I got one blink nothing else?? Like a half-blink, doesn't that mean there's nothing wrong...

Yes.

So did I snag another dead end? I still don't have the fuel pump, but I sounds like she wants to go

Remember to always disconnect the negative. Battery terminal before working on the electrical system, particularly when swapping out the ECM.

Again, I think the next step is to remove the main relay and confirm that the fuel pump runs, when terminals 5 and 7 are jumped. If it does, then I would replace the relay.

No, I don't think you snagged a dead end. I think you are close to victory.

Here's a simple but sometimes important step. Remove and clean the main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. It's a 3-wire brass connector.

THERE'S STILL THE POSSIBILITY THAT YOU HAVE ANOTHER BAD FUSE; E.G. THE 7.5 A STARTER SIGNAL FUSE. That's why you need to test all under-dash and under-hood fuses with a test light or multimeter!