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-   -   220v lines in garage question (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=836952)

  • Jan 29, 2018, 03:24 PM
    draftd
    220v lines in garage question
    My son wants to put two 220v lines in his garage.
    There is a 100 amp panel inside the garage. ( 100 amp panel outside also )


    In the 100 amp panel inside the garage... we plan to put a 60 amp breaker that will feed a subpanel approx 2' away... that will have two 30 amp breakers.


    We plan to run #6 from 60 amp breaker to subpanel.( approx 2' )

    We plan to use #10/2 for the 30 amp breakers with runs of approx 10' and 18'.


    Can the white of the #10/2 be used as a hot ?


    Can a stranded wire be used as a ground ?
  • Jan 29, 2018, 06:29 PM
    ma0641
    Yes to both. Mark the white as black or red at both ends. I use a big magic marker. THHN is approved as a ground and much easier to pull, make sure it is green. BTW, it is now 240 VAC.
  • Jan 30, 2018, 03:55 AM
    draftd
    Thank you ma0641.
  • Jan 30, 2018, 09:48 AM
    draftd
    1 Attachment(s)
    Addon to my prior 220v question
    Here's the subpanel purchased.

    Would our wiring be correct locations ?
  • Jan 30, 2018, 02:08 PM
    ma0641
    Not sure what that is, the holes on the right are for a neutral bar if you needed 120VAC
  • Jan 30, 2018, 03:11 PM
    draftd
    Thanks ma0641

    Assuming our wire locations will be correct beings you did not mention anything wrong.
  • Jan 31, 2018, 01:27 PM
    ma0641
    Looks OK. As long as you stay in the same building, you do not need a separate ground. The ground bar should not be bonded to the subpanel box, it is grounded through the main panel. In the picture, it looks like it is isolated, which is what you want. I see a screw through the plastic, that is OK.
  • Feb 2, 2018, 10:34 AM
    hfcarson
    Referring to "what is this?" - this is used to bond the neutral to the ground. This is required by the code to happen in only one location and that location is at the first overcurrent device or main circuit breaker.
    Being that this is a sub-panel, the neutral and ground must remain electrically separate from each other.
    The "what is this" bonding strap should be removed as you will not need it. What you need to do is get another ground bar and attached it directly to the box. The two holes on the right side of the box are for this ground bar. All ground wires will need to go to this bar.
    All neutral conductors are required to go to the isolated bar already shown.
    The white (neutral conductor terminates at the lug you marked as "#6 grnd". The bare or ground conductor goes to the new ground bar.

    By the way you need to use #6/3 which has (2) black wires, (1) white wire and (1) bare ground wire.
    Hope this is helpful
  • Feb 2, 2018, 05:17 PM
    donf
    Please don't forget the Ground Rod and the ECG if this is a remote building.
  • Feb 3, 2018, 07:57 AM
    ma0641
    This is 240 only and 2 ft. away from main panel. No neutral.
  • Feb 3, 2018, 08:57 AM
    hfcarson
    OK, so you don't need the neutral, then take the "what's this" bonding strap and connect it to the ground bar to effectively bond the panel enclosure to the equipment ground...
  • Feb 4, 2018, 01:01 PM
    Stratmando
    Lot of great answers above, could do this, a Quad 30/30 Breaker:

    https://www.ebay.com/i/272886286753?chn=ps
  • Feb 5, 2018, 10:01 AM
    Stratmando
    Oh Yeah, The Ground in Your Electrical Boxes Need a Solid wire for a Ground, No Stranded

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