My Maytag clothes washer (model number SAV4655EWW) was purchased in Nov. 2005. Yesterday it allowed hot water in, but no cold. I unscrewed the cold water hose where it attaches to the back of the washer and the screen looked fine. However, I had to shut the water off for the whole house because the cold water faucet on the wall didn't stop the water from pouring in after I (thought I) closed it. I found out the hard way that the recently replaced shut off valves under the nearby sink could shut off the hot and cold water to the sink and the hot water to the washer, but not the cold to the washer. Does it sound likely that the water inlet valve on the washer needs to be replaced to let cold water go into the washer? Does the cold water valve on the wall need to be replaced so it will shut off? If this is the case, I'm worried about the valve on the wall because, if I have a problem, I might not be able to switch the main water valve back on and finding a decent plumber in my area is a major challenge. I wonder if installing one of those braided stainless steel hoses would take care of the pressure. I've always shut off the water between wash days (or thought I had) and still have rubber hoses with no problems. Any suggestions on how to deal with this will be greatly appreciated. Whew!

There are 2 filter screens for each hot / cold water: one set is located in the threads of the washing machine, and the other one in one of the two threads in the supply hoses. Make sure all screens are clean.

You may have to remove them, clean them under running water, and reinstall them. They are very fine screens. They may look like they are clean, but they may still be clogged. So pay close attention to them

You should replace that cold water valve, too

Milo

I did check the screens, but maybe not as carefully as you suggest. I'll check again as part of my education. I ordered a new water inlet valve for the washer and industrial braid fill hoses, just in case. Would the new fill hoses be able to handle the pressure without replacing the cold water drain valve on the wall? How do I measure the cold water valve? I've seen both 1/2" and 3/4" online, but the measurement on my old one isn't shown on the outside and the terminology is very confusing. Also, it's installed very close to the sheetrock wall, nearly flush, which might be an issue. That protruding pipe appears to be threaded. Should thread seal tape be used with a new installation? Is it correct to say that ball valves don't have washers so I couldn't repair it in place, if needed and if that's what I have? I have no way to take a photo. I'm very concerned about getting stuck with the main water valve off and not finding a competent plumber. One recently created 4 leaks when he replaced new shutoff valves around the house and the next broke the sink when removing an old faucet.

Is it correct to say that ball valves don't have washers so I couldn't repair it in place, if needed and if that's what I have? They don't really have a washer, it is an internal seal. You don't screw ball valves open and close, they have a handle or lever and are 1/4 turn on/off. They look like this although there are different variations.
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/image/...ooooAKKKKAP//Z

The valves can be 1/2" or 3/4"... Plumber can tell the size just by looking at them... Ball valve has a plastic seal on the inside, but you cannot replace it.. you just have to purchase new valve... If you are unsure about size of the valve - than I suggest you buy both 1/2" and 3/4" vavle, use the one that fits, and return the unused valve for refund. Yes, s.s. braided hoses will hold the pressure

Hope that helps

Milo

The valve(s) I have are the old-fashioned kind with a round metal handle. Is it likely to be a ball valve (ie, requiring complete replacement to work properly)? If I have the option, I'd like to replace it with the same thing. Should I assume it's soldered and I'd need to cut the wall open to remove it? I'm hoping to avoid that. Again, finding a good plumber... Thank you for your patience.

Visual would really help...

If you look at the valve, you should be able to look if it is sweat connection or threaded one. If sweat connection than you will most likely have to call somebody with tools and know-how to install new valve for you. It doesn't have to be licensed plumber, you can try handyman, too.

If you have valve with round handle, than it is not "ball valve" but "yoke" valve. Some claim yoke can be replaced, however, I have never seen anybody replacing one nor do I know where to buy one. It is just cheaper to buy and install entire valve

I suggest you replace your faulty valve with (true) ball valve

Hope that helps

Milo

The valve is installed horizontally with its base nearly against the sheetrock wall, maybe 1/16" of threaded shank showing. The handle itself is parallel to the wall with the faucet below at an angle heading away from the wall. I found pictures of similar ones at various websites, but can't figure out how to include an attachment here. I don't have the equipment to take a picture.

Cobras, have you removed the cold hose and then aimed it into a bucket and turned the water supply back on to be sure cold water is running through the hose? If not, do this... if water flows through the hose then the issue is at the solonoid valve of the washing machine. If cold water doesn't show water then the shut off valve is suspect.

Back to you...

Mark

I removed the cold hose from the back of the machine to see if it was clogged and water kept pouring out of the hose. That's how I found out the cold shutoff valve on the wall wasn't working, since I had turned it off first. The hot water valve works fine. I ordered a water inlet valve for the washer, since I read that replacing it is best, but I'm wondering if the industrial braided hoses I also ordered will handle the pressure if I don't replace the shut off valve on the wall. I'd also like to determine what shut off valve would be needed if I go that route since the plumbing terminology I found is in Greek. Haven't found a competent plumber in this area--two horror stories just in this past year.

I have had the same braided washer hoses on my unit for 9 years. Never turn them off although I do turn off the house if we go away for more than a couple of days. Mine are 1/4 turn ball valves as are almost all newer installs.

My concerns are size, since I don't know what 1/2" or 3/4" refers to on the valves I've looked at (I think they're boiler drain angle valves), and whether the existing valve is soldered in, which might necessitate cutting the wall open to get to the connection. I don't need one of those recessed boxes for the valves, since they protrude from the wall above the washer anyway.

Guys, other than convenience, is there any really compelling reason to replace the valve? If it's leaking to the outside of the valve, then you have no choice, but otherwise why not just fix the washer, turn the house water back on, and enjoy the good life?

Hi John. The washing machine solenoid valve doesn't let cold water into the machine. Options are: 1) if coblas uses only cold water, swap out the hot hose for the cold hose and he/she is all set. Otherwise, 2). Install a new cold water shut off valve at the source AND replace the washing machine solonoid valve for best result.

Coblas, try to post a picture... would really help.

Just to be clear, I was referring to the cold water shut off valve. If the homeowner is nervous about trying to replace that, and he seems to be, then just forget it. Replace the valve in the washer, turn the house water back on, and just continue to use the old cold water valve. So long as it's not leaking, he would still be OK. Yes?

Always fun to follow these threads!

BTW, I just replaced mine. It was a good deal easier than I thought it would be. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_coQd29OAM

Well, I just replaced the water inlet valve in the washer and the supply lines and I still have the same problem. Hot water is fine, but no cold water enters the washer. I don't have a way to send a picture. There has never been any leaking--just the failure of getting cold water into the machine. The cold water boiler drain valve on the wall doesn't shut the water off--it goes through the supply line to the washer. I made a point of getting the super duper industrial braided supply lines so they could withstand the pressure of the cold water being on all the time and could live with that but it seems that the problem is with the washer.

Did you clean the filter screen inside the washer / cold water inlet ?

Milo

I installed a new water inlet valve so it didn't need to be cleaned. I assume that's the filter screen inside the washer that Milo is referring to. Just for "fun," since the hot water was coming in okay, I decided to do some laundry by adding buckets of cold water manually to the load to mix with the hot. I moved the washer closer to the wall so the drain hose would reach, and now the washer doesn't go on at all.