New shower/tub drain questions
I have received a permit to move my existing whirlpool to a new location and install a shower in the old whirlpool location. I have 3 questions:
1. I will be cutting into an existing 3" PVC drain and adding a 3x2x3 wye. From the wye I will have a short run of 2" pipe and then another wye from which will be another short run of 2" pipe with a vent tee then into the 2" shower drain trap. From the other side of the wye it will reduce down to 1 1/2" for the tub drain which will be separately vented into an existing 2" roof vent connected to the toilet and a lavatory. Does this sound OK?
2. What type of couplings (that meet code) should I use? If I use Fernco, do I need shielded fittings? I would prefer to use 3" PVC repair couplings without the stops.
3. The vent pipe into the roof vent referred to in question 1 will start from a 1 1/2" vent tee in the 1 1/2" drain pipe right after it leaves the trap. It will be under the floor and can only go up a few inches (maybe 6) before it will have to turn 90 degrees and go almost right back over the trap. Is this OK?
New shower/tub drain questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by melacribe
I have received a permit to move my existing whirlpool to a new location and install a shower in the old whirlpool location. I have 3 questions:
1. I will be cutting into an existing 3" PVC drain and adding a 3x2x3 wye. From the wye I will have a short run of 2" pipe and then another wye from which will be another short run of 2" pipe with a vent tee then into the 2" shower drain trap. From the other side of the wye it will reduce down to 1 1/2" for the tub drain which will be separately vented into an existing 2" roof vent connected to the toilet and a lavatory. Does this sound ok?
2. What type of couplings (that meet code) should I use? If I use Fernco, do I need shielded fittings? I would prefer to use 3" PVC repair couplings without the stops.
3. The vent pipe into the roof vent referred to in question 1 will start from a 1 1/2" vent tee in the 1 1/2" drain pipe right after it leaves the trap. It will be under the floor and can only go up a few inches (maybe 6) before it will have to turn 90 degrees and go almost right back over the trap. Is this ok?
(1) I'm looking at least three vents where one would do. Also we pick up our tubs with 2" not 1 1/2". We stopped that in the 50's.
Try laying it out this way. 3" main with a 2" Lavatory branch downstream from the toilet that will continue up to the roof for a vent after it picks up the lavatory. Now tie the tub and shower drains into the lavatory drain where they will be wet vented. That one vent will vent the entire bathroom group unless local codes call for individual vents on all fixtures, such has you'vel laid out.
(2) I assume you're asking about tying in the 3 X 3 X2 Wye, (the branch is always the last number, don't ask me why.) I would use a street wye and glue in the hub end and use a No-Hub band to tie the two male ends together.
(3) Forget the 1 1/2". Stay with 2" and just use the lavatory vent to vent the group.
If there's a problem with this click on back and we'll explore other possibilities.
Regards, Tom
more shower tub/drain questions
Tom
Thanks for the sound advice. I'll go with the 2" for the tub drain. I can't believe that my plumber used 1 1/2" for the tub when it was installed in 1991.
It's hard to describe, but without cutting through 12" floor joists, I can't vent the tub on the same vent line as the shower. There is a vent break when the drain crosses the main parallam which runs down the middle of my garage over which the main bath sits. I need to separately vent the tub and I need to know if I can come off the 2" tub drain line a foot downstream of the trap with a 2x2x1 1/2" tee and then go straight up and out of the tee with 6" of 1 1/2" pipe and then use a 90 degree elbow to go back over the 2" drain pipe with 1 1/2" vent pipe until I can eventually elbow up to the vent. ( I feel like I am writing a section of US tax code).
Finally, what is a "no hub band"? Is that PVC or a Fernco-type fitting?
