So a few weeks ago, I blew a timing belt, took it into the shop to get it replaced. Turns out when I got it back the mechanic told me snapping the timing belt caused me to bend a valve. So if driving the car with a bent valve, isn't that going to ruin your valve-guide? I was just thinking I would pick up a used head from a wreckers, replace the valve seals, clean it up and just slap that on instead of doing head work to the original head. Also just wondering if you know of and can provide me with some info on how to replace a head. And also a list of tools required (hate to drive for 2 1/2 hours, and find out I forgot a tool.
In my haynes manual its telling me that I've got to remove the camshaft first before you can get at the head bolts. Is this true? Or can I get easy access to the head bolts once the valve cover is off?

Thankz,

EmJay

The cylinder head bolts on your engine can be removed without removing the camshaft.

You might be able to get away with replacing the bent valve(s). I would not even bother with trying to replace valve guides - get a new head.

I would replace the headbolts if you are going to remove them - they are prone to stretching on this engine.
Cylinder Head Gasket (new-style):P/N 12251-P01-004, H/C 4489530
Cylinder Head Bolts (10 required, use with new-style gasket):P/N 90005-PM3-004, H/C 2894988

As far as tools, you'll need an assortment of 10,12,14,17,19mm wrenches, sockets, & extensions (1/4, 3/8, 1/2 drive). Plus something to remove the old grafoil style headgasket (3m bristle brush on a die grinder). A ladyfoot prybar to pry the head loose, various long needle nosed pliers.

Thankz for the advice. Went and got my head today with no problems. Just have another question, I want to replace the valve seals, and clean up the carbon on the valves, but I was just wondering if it was necessary to remove the cam, or should I be able to work around it, and what would you recommend on how to clean up the head/removing carbon etc. Also, when I pulled this head off @ the wreckers, I never positioned the engine @ TDC, is this going to be a problem when it comes time to adjust the valve-to-rocker clearance? And any info you can send me on how to set valve clearance would be awesome. Would it be easier to adjust the valves with the head on the engine or can I adjust them with the head off?

Thankz,

EmJay

You'll have to remove the rocker arms to get at the valve seals. You can leave the cam laying in there if you want. Carb cleaner is decent at cleaning carbon, you can use a wire wheel to clean the valves up. I would adjust the valves with the engine assembled. Check out a Haynes or Honda manual on the valve adjustment. Be gentle with the jam nut on the tappets - you can pull the theads out of the rocker arms easily. It canbe frustrating to get the valves right on a higher mileage engine because there are flat spots worn into the tappets.
Also, be sure to replace the o-rings between the cam holder and cylinder head - or you will probably have oil intrusion into the spark plug/wire area once the engine is running.

Am I going to have to adjust the head so its at TDC before its put on the block, or is that just done by aligning the timing marks on the cam and the crankshaft? I know how to get to TDC, but how do I know if its on the compression stroke?

Use the marks on the crank pulley and cam pulley.
I would install the head and then install the cam holder - this way, all the valves are closed during installation. Then rotate the cam and line it up with the crank. Then install cam holder and adjust your valves.

How would I go about removing carbon inside the head? Can you give any advise on how to replace the valve seals? Not quite sure, never seen this type before, and Haynes manual really sucks with giving info.

Thankz again,

EmJay