The copper termination fitting is threaded on the brass shower valve on the cold water supply side. All the copper pipe is soldered with no leaks, but now there is a
Slow drip from the threaded portion of the copper termination fitting where it meets the brass valve. I used Teflon tape on the threads, but perhaps it needs additional tightening which can't be done now due to soldered pipes. Ugh! Help!

About the only proper thing to do is to take the piping apart, tighten and resolder.

Yep I agree with Ma0641 you need to take the piping apart and use extra Teflon tape on the fitting threads assemble and solder, good luck.

John

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Originally Posted by ma0641

About the only proper thing to do is to take the piping apart, tighten and resolder.

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Thank you!

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Originally Posted by Jonl51

Thank you!

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Before I take the pipes apart, is there any chance that I could sweat
The leaking joint after removing water, cleaning and fluxing? Or will the
Teflon tape on the threads not visible just burn up and make things worse?

The repair would only be superficial and eventually end up leaking. As much as it stinks, do it right and never worry about this again!

Mark

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Originally Posted by massplumber2008

The repair would only be superficial and eventually end up leaking. As much as it stinks, do it right and never worry about this again!

Mark

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Thank you Mark. Yes, I want it done right.

Jon,
After removing the leaking connector, I suggest pre - fabricating the new adapter fitting with a short piece of pipe - solder this joint, and let it cool before assembly with the body of the valve - this will prevent over heating both the valve body & what ever joint sealant you use. We prefer 4 - 5 wraps ( clockwise ) of Teflon tape together with a quality pipe joint compound..........

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All the copper pipe is soldered with no leaks, but now there is a slow drip from the threaded portion of the copper termination fitting where it meets the brass valve. I used Teflon tape on the threads

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Is it leaking around the threaded fitting, or from a soldered joint? If it is from the threaded area, why would he want to re-solder? Just curious.

Thank you a very good tip.

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Originally Posted by Mike45plus

Jon,
After removing the leaking connector, I suggest pre - fabricating the new adapter fitting with a short piece of pipe - solder this joint, and let it cool before assembly with the body of the valve - this will prevent over heating both the valve body & what ever joint sealant you use. We prefer 4 - 5 wraps ( clockwise ) of Teflon tape together with a quality pipe joint compound..........

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I tried one last idea before having to re-do the joint from scratch. I heated up
The nearest soldered joint until it melted and with the heat still on, tightened the
Termination fixture. Then quickly added flux and a little solder to the reheated joint.
Thoughts? Because of the small space I am in, re-doing from scratch will be a
Challenge.

I'd say it's worth a try, as long as you're on your own dime, you can work safely, and, you have access for additional repair if needed...

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I heated up The nearest soldered joint until it melted and with the heat still on, tightened the Termination fixture.

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I recently tried that, didn't work. I don't have enough hands. Solder solidifies to fast.

More important, if the solder joint is any near the fitting, the fitting will be hot. When copper is hot it softens. The wrench will distort the fitting.

Yep I agree with Hkstroud I am afraid it will not work, Thanks.

John