Hi!
I'm not sure what to do, my 96 Honda accord meeded the Clutch master Cylinder replaced do to a leak. I replaced the slave as well, I have pressure in my clutch, I was hoping that was going to help my car start better. Before the cylinder s needed replaced it took a few second s to register and then would turn over' on hot days it wouldn't even turn on no sound when turning key woumt jump start eithrr, so I then would have to clutch start it. For this problem in have replaced the battery, the ground wire. Looked at all fuses. Alternator and starter both tested and passed. Now I'm looking at the relays (which I have no idea how to test) the live cable for battery, as well as then starter wire.. Ignition was replaced a year ago so I'm complely lost on whatn to do. Anyone have ideas?

Pay particular attention to Item 6.

"Car (Starter Motor) Won't Crank"

. Ensure the battery is fully charged, even if it's a new battery, before diagnosing starter problems. Then, test each cell, with a hydrometer or multimeter, to ensure that it's good. This important step is often overlooked.
. Test all under hood and under dash fuses with a test light or multimeter.
. Ensure the gearshift is in Neutral or Park (automatic transmission), or the clutch pedal is depressed (manual transmission), if the starter motor does not turn at all when the ignition switch is turned to Start.


1. If the starter motor doesn't turn, but the starter solenoid (relay) "clicks" when the ignition switch is turned to Start, the problem is with the battery, starter solenoid, or starter motor connections.

2. Disconnecting the negative battery cable first, clean battery terminals and cable connections with a battery terminal brush, No. 240 abrasive cloth, or steel wool. Also, check the battery ground cable connection to the body and engine. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished. Examine the cables carefully for hidden corrosion or internal breaks.

3. While the negative battery cable is disconnected, clean starter motor and starter solenoid connections. Apply silicone dielectric grease, when finished. Make sure all connections are secure. When installing the starter cable, make sure that the crimped side of the ring terminal is facing out. Reconnect the negative battery terminal last.

4. If the starter motor spins but the engine is not cranking, the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is slipping and the starter motor must be replaced. Also, the ring gear on the flywheel or drive plate may be worn.

5. If the solenoid plunger cannot be heard when the switch is actuated, the battery is bad, the fusible link is burned (circuit is open), or the solenoid is defective.

6. In order to check the solenoid, perform an Ignition By-Pass Test, by placing the transmission in Park, engaging the parking brake, removing the push-on connector from the solenoid “S” terminal, and connecting a jumper lead (12 AWG), or preferably a remote starter switch, between the B+ terminal on the solenoid (or positive battery terminal) and the exposed “S” terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor now operates, the solenoid is fine and the problem is with the starter relay, ignition switch, neutral safety switch or clutch interlock switch, fuse, fusible link, security system, or wiring. If the starter motor still does not operate, replace the solenoid.

7. If the starter motor cranks the engine slowly, ensure the battery is fully charged and all terminal connections are clean and tight. Then, check connections at the starter solenoid and battery ground. The engine will also crank slowly, if it's partially seized or has the wrong viscosity oil in it. Synthetic engine oil allows starter motors to turn the engine over easier and faster, thus promoting starting and reducing battery drain.

Thank you I'll go try that today :)