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-   -   No spark (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=80451)

  • Apr 8, 2007, 04:34 PM
    warich
    No spark
    I have a 1989 Mitsubishi Galant with a single overhead cam 2.0 engine with only 67,000 original miles.

    I have no spark to the distributor or to the plugs. I have replaced plugs, cap, rotor and wires. Then 3 used and working distributors from a local wrecking yard. Still no spark. I then was told it needed a coil. Still no spark after replacing that with a new one. I did notice that when cranking the engine over there was a very weak and thin red line of spark from the coil wire from the coil when holding it aside of the engine.

    I then took a volt meter and verified there was 12 volts coming into the coil from the power wire.(blk w/white stripe) Positive 12 volts there.

    Also, I had taken the brain out and put it in another car that was same year and make as mine. That car ran perfect. I think I can safely assume the brain is good beings it started and ran his car.

    I have checked the wire harness plug at the end of the distributor connection near the fire wall. It is a square Blk plug with 4 prongs and 4 wires. With the tester in hand it tested as follows.

    Blk wire w/ white stripe. 12 volts.
    Tan wire w/ yellow stripe 4.92 volts.
    Blk wire w/ blue stripe 4.92 volts.
    Blk wire. 0 volts. (The Blk wire I assume is a ground)

    On the distributor end of the plug there is a

    Red wire (which connects to the Blk w/ White stripe on the other plug)
    Yellow wire (which connects to the Tan w/Yellow stripe on other plug)
    White wire (which connects to Blk w/ Blue stripe on other plug)
    Blk (which connects to Blk on other plug)

    Is there a way to check this end of it all? If so what to look for and how to check it.

    There is also a condenser of the sort on the outside of the distributor. When purchasing a new coil prior I was asked if it has this resistor on the distributor.

    It has a Blk wire w/White stripe on it. It shows 12 volts power. I was told that this was a radio resistor condenser. Just wondering if this is true. I called a dealer and tried to buy this part but it is only available with a new distributor which I don't think I need after having tried 3 distributors with them already and one that was off a running motor in a wrecked car.
    I have checked all fuses for continuity under dash and under hood. The fuel pump relay under dash is working when ignition is turned on and in the starting position by hearing it click and watching the points make contact when in the on and in starting position.

    Fuel pressure is at 48 psi according to my gauge when turning over engine.

    Timing belt is not broken and the distributor turns and is in time with the engine and all marks are correlating to the correct line up.


    Check engine light turns on when key is in the on position as it is supposed to and goes out after a few seconds while trying to start the car.

    Is there any way to cross the diagnostic terminals to make this car spit out a code? If so how and which prongs?


    So after checking all these things and still coming up empty handed, can you please help shed some light on this for me. What else should I be looking at? I have asked countless shops that were unable to really help me. I do my own mechanical work, but this has been a real pain to figure out not to mention that there seems to be no manual on the market for this car. Please help. I can't afford costly repair bills on a limited income.

    I would appreciate any help that would steer me in the right direction to fixing this ailing problem that plagues me.

    Thanks you.

    Retired wrench... Richard
  • Apr 8, 2007, 06:31 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    . It's very possible the only thing wrong is the igniter. You have checked almost everything else out. The igniter is my bet with what is wrong. Here's what it looks like:

    Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

    These are very problematic components, especially on an 18 year old car.

    . Check for codes. I'm sure a Haynes Manual contains that information for your car. You could have a bad Crank Position Sensor, which is expensive. Best to have it throw a code telling you this first. If all else fails, call a local Mitsubishi dealer and ask how to check for codes.

    Keep me posted.
  • Apr 8, 2007, 07:07 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Here's where you can get an inexpensive Haynes Manual for your car:

    eBay Motors: Haynes Mitsubishi Cordia Tredia Mirage Galant 1983-1993 (item 180101829986 end time Apr-28-07 06:30:28 PDT)
  • Apr 12, 2007, 12:09 PM
    warich
    Thanks for the help Tx, unfortunately that wasn't the issue with the car. Thanks for trying.



    Quote:

    Originally Posted by txgreasemonkey
    . It's very possible the only thing wrong is the igniter. You have checked almost everything else out. The igniter is my bet with what is wrong. Here's what it looks like:

    Zip Code Entry at PartsAmerica.com

    These are very problematic components, especially on an 18 year old car.

    . Check for codes. I'm sure a Haynes Manual contains that information for your car. You could have a bad Crank Position Sensor, which is expensive. Best to have it throw a code telling you this first. If all else fails, call a local Mitsubishi dealer and ask how to check for codes.

    Keep me posted.

  • Apr 12, 2007, 12:24 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    What was causing the problem?
  • Apr 12, 2007, 01:04 PM
    warich
    Still unsure of what the issue is. There are no stored codes in the car beings the battery had been disconnected. It will most likely have to keep sitting unless someone can think of something else to look for.

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