I have a 1989 Mitsubishi Galant with a single overhead cam 2.0 engine with only 67,000 original miles.
I have no spark to the distributor or to the plugs. I have replaced plugs, cap, rotor and wires. Then 3 used and working distributors from a local wrecking yard. Still no spark. I then was told it needed a coil. Still no spark after replacing that with a new one. I did notice that when cranking the engine over there was a very weak and thin red line of spark from the coil wire from the coil when holding it aside of the engine.
I then took a volt meter and verified there was 12 volts coming into the coil from the power wire.(blk w/white stripe) Positive 12 volts there.
Also, I had taken the brain out and put it in another car that was same year and make as mine. That car ran perfect. I think I can safely assume the brain is good beings it started and ran his car.
I have checked the wire harness plug at the end of the distributor connection near the fire wall. It is a square Blk plug with 4 prongs and 4 wires. With the tester in hand it tested as follows.
Blk wire w/ white stripe. 12 volts.
Tan wire w/ yellow stripe 4.92 volts.
Blk wire w/ blue stripe 4.92 volts.
Blk wire. 0 volts. (The Blk wire I assume is a ground)
On the distributor end of the plug there is a
Red wire (which connects to the Blk w/ White stripe on the other plug)
Yellow wire (which connects to the Tan w/Yellow stripe on other plug)
White wire (which connects to Blk w/ Blue stripe on other plug)
Blk (which connects to Blk on other plug)
Is there a way to check this end of it all? If so what to look for and how to check it.
There is also a condenser of the sort on the outside of the distributor. When purchasing a new coil prior I was asked if it has this resistor on the distributor.
It has a Blk wire w/White stripe on it. It shows 12 volts power. I was told that this was a radio resistor condenser. Just wondering if this is true. I called a dealer and tried to buy this part but it is only available with a new distributor which I don't think I need after having tried 3 distributors with them already and one that was off a running motor in a wrecked car.
I have checked all fuses for continuity under dash and under hood. The fuel pump relay under dash is working when ignition is turned on and in the starting position by hearing it click and watching the points make contact when in the on and in starting position.
Fuel pressure is at 48 psi according to my gauge when turning over engine.
Timing belt is not broken and the distributor turns and is in time with the engine and all marks are correlating to the correct line up.
Check engine light turns on when key is in the on position as it is supposed to and goes out after a few seconds while trying to start the car.
Is there any way to cross the diagnostic terminals to make this car spit out a code? If so how and which prongs?
So after checking all these things and still coming up empty handed, can you please help shed some light on this for me. What else should I be looking at? I have asked countless shops that were unable to really help me. I do my own mechanical work, but this has been a real pain to figure out not to mention that there seems to be no manual on the market for this car. Please help. I can't afford costly repair bills on a limited income.
I would appreciate any help that would steer me in the right direction to fixing this ailing problem that plagues me.
Thanks you.
Retired wrench... Richard
