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-   -   Basement shower abs drain pipe (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=79923)

  • Apr 6, 2007, 05:17 PM
    nphillips55
    Basement shower abs drain pipe
    In my basement roughin the abs drain pipe is not quite plumb, can the abs pipe about 5 or 6 inches from the p-trap, be flexed slightly to line up with the shower drain tail piece? The drain tailpiece I'm using is a B&K Industries with the rubber sleeve that slides over the 2" drain pipe then a ring nut is tightened down over it with the hair catcher pressed into place on top of that. (hope that makes sense, don't know all the technical terms but if you are a plumber I will bet you know what I'm talking about) :o)

    Thanks for any help!
  • Apr 6, 2007, 08:11 PM
    ljen18
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by nphillips55
    in my basement roughin the abs drain pipe is not quite plumb, can the abs pipe about 5 or 6 inches from the p-trap, be flexed slightly to line up with the shower drain tail piece? the drain tailpiece i'm using is a B&K Industries with the rubber sleeve that slides over the 2" drain pipe then a ring nut is tightened down over it with the hair catcher pressed into place on top of that. (hope that makes sense, don't know all the technical terms but if you are a plumber i will bet you know what i'm talking about) :o)

    Thanks for any help!

    When you say plumb, do you mean "not in line with? or the ABS pipe is sloping? ABS pipe can be flexed in inch or two. I would flex it, install the slip-on coupling,and firmly tighten the coupler clamp.Another important issue is- make sure that the ABS pipe is running downhill, so your water will drain toward the Main Sewer line.
  • Apr 6, 2007, 09:25 PM
    iamgrowler
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by nphillips55
    in my basement roughin the abs drain pipe is not quite plumb, can the abs pipe about 5 or 6 inches from the p-trap, be flexed slightly to line up with the shower drain tail piece? the drain tailpiece i'm using is a B&K Industries with the rubber sleeve that slides over the 2" drain pipe then a ring nut is tightened down over it with the hair catcher pressed into place on top of that. (hope that makes sense, don't know all the technical terms but if you are a plumber i will bet you know what i'm talking about) :o)

    Thanks for any help!

    Is there a reason why you don't just cut out the p-trap and replace it with a new one and perhaps an offset?

    It may work for awhile if you force it, but eventually the rubber donut in the no-caulk drain assembly will become elliptical and start to leak.
  • Apr 15, 2007, 07:27 AM
    nphillips55
    Hi iamgrowler, I was just being lazy, I think I had better do as you suggest and dig it back out and realign. Thanks again!

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