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15 months ago we renovated our bathroom. Approximately 3 months ago we noticed a "snap" like sound when we got up off the toilet. We put 3 stainless steel washers (3/8" diameter ) under the base of the toilet. They were sticking out a bit at first because of resistance . I was able to push them in further so they don't show now. Should we caulk around the base of the toilet now(the contractor did put a ring of caulking under the toilet base when he reinstalled it)?
So you have a fragile toilet restin on tthree washers so that the full weight of someone sitting down on it is concentrated at those three points instead of around the entire base.
I see a new toilet in your future when it breaks when someone sits dow a little too hard.
Caulking is to keep crud from going under it, not to support it... the much smaller wax ring is to seal it to the drain stack... I would recommend taking it up and finding the problem and fixing it correctly.
Call the contractor back and do what needs to be done properly. You never know what the real issue is and I seriously doubt caulking will solve the problem. Does it feel loose?
Whenever a toilet is taken off the floor, the wax ring should be replaced! Caulk is just a band-aid against a flood.
Hi B44
Most likely, that "snap" sound was the snapping of the plastic closet flange under the toilet bowl and it should be repaired properly before the toilet ends up getting cracked (most likely, by those washers you installed).
Caulking of the toilet is NOT something most plumbers do, and if we do caulk around the bowl we will only caulk 3/4 of the way around the toilet bowl. This is done so that you can see that the wax gasket is leaking BEFORE it causes significant damage/mold to the ceiling/crawlspace below.
Get a plumber in (not a contractor...warranty has expired on the work) and have them look at this real quick, or if you think you are up to attempting the repair, pop back and we'll try to walk you through, OK?
Mark
The International Residential Code, section P2705-1 states " where fixtures come in contact with walls and floors, the contact area shall be watertight ". The codes intent is to protect health by describing the best methods for doing so.
Plumbers very carefully design & install drain, waste, and vent systems that guarantee sanitation - which is a Plumbers MOST important responsibility. Caulking, or sealing a toilet, or any fixture ( tub, shower base, mop basin, bidet, urinal, sink pedestal, etc. ) that contacts the floor, is a part of the sanitary drainage system.
A correctly installed toilet, on a properly prepared floor and drain connector ( flange ), will sit watertight, and sewer odor free for decades or longer. A correctly installed wax gasket will only come in contact with water when there is a back up in the pipe it is connected to, and, when installed correctly, a bowl wax will withstand the very slight pressure imposed upon it by an overflowing toilet bowl.
All plumbing fixtures can overflow, regardless of the height, or location of their drain connection, and the real value of sealing the point of floor contact, is to prevent some of the nastiest germs on the planet from having a place to gather and grow.
Perhaps there is some confusion regarding the concept of sanitation, but any plumber, who is not caulking or sealing fixtures at their base, is not doing their duty ( no pun intended ), as the code also calls for the standard " best practice " as a part of good workmanship.
Mike said,.Quote:
but any plumber, who is not caulking or sealing fixtures at their base, is not doing their duty ( no pun intended ), as the code also calls for the standard " best practice " as a part of good workmanship
I don't know where you are from, Mike, but here in the good ol' USA, most plumbers are not caulking the toilets (or any other fixtures) to the floors. Here, you quoted an international residential code...exactly where does that international code get applied....I promise you it isn't in the USA??
Further, years ago, old-school plumbers used putty to seal fixtures to the floor...only lead to discoloring of the floor grout and vinyl flooring. When caulking was introduced, many plumbers used the wrong caulking materials and for a decade or two, every time we went to remove/replace/repair a toilet or toilet flange, the floor tile would pop up with the toilet (no matter how much we cut the ADHESIVE caulking with a knife...spread too far under the toilet). We also found that when toilets were caulked all around the toilet base that when a wax gasket failed all the caulking did was to force the sewage into the ceiling below...took time and mold was created as a result.
Finally, caulking discolors and collects dust/dirt and can become unsightly, but there are times we do use it to caulk a toilet to the floor in repair work (such as when the house has little boys or BIG BOYS that seems to miss the toilet) and even then most plumbers do not caulk the entire perimeter of the drain as they only caulk 3/4 of the way around so a failed wax gasket will show upstairs instead of downstairs on the living room ceiling (as noted above).
Anyway, always good to see another perspective and different experiences, but I did want to pop in and make sure that people are aware that the plumber is NOT required to caulk fixtures to the floor under any codes in the USA.
Have a good day!
Mark
The International Residential Code for one and two family dwellings is copyrighted by the International Code Council of Falls Church, Virginia - USA, and is accepted and approved by the State
Of Connecticut as a portion of the State Building Code... what code book do you abide by?
I work with every code book in New England at some point or another. Are you talking about the IPC book? If so, there are a few states that accept that here in the USA, but not many states that I know of.
Doesn't really matter anyway as I have pointed out the negatives with caulking around fixtures. Let the people that read this in the future decide what they want to do. Isn't that the fun of this place??
Probably like most of us, by the state in which we reside and the local laws and ordinances.
WRONG MOVE! To shim a toilet bowl with anything metal is asking for the porcelain to crack and fracture. Plastic shims should only be used.Quote:
We put 3 stainless steel washers (3/8" diameter ) under the base of the toilet.
I would remove the metal washers and do the job right. Good luck, Tom
Exactly why I posted to Mike45, Talaniman...there are no absolutes in terms of plumbing code across the country or amongst countries. It is, however, always great when others share their codes and experiences!
I just couldn't stand by and let this go unanswered is all,Damn my ego again!!Quote:
but any plumber, who is not caulking or sealing fixtures at their base, is not doing their duty ( no pun intended )
Seriously, Mike45...thanks for posting. It is always a pleasure to read your thoughts/experience!
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