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Under the UPC in effect and with a 3/4" galvanized gas line stubout at a residence in California built in 1999, the following questions are posed:
[First, the gas line is to serve two rear yard gas appliances, a BBQ and a fire pit. Point A to C is about 30 feet; point B, branching out at a right angle is about 20 feet; Point A is the stubout location.]
Under the UPC in effect and with a 3/4" galvanized gas line stubout at a residence in California built in 1999, the following questions are posed:
[First, the gas line is to serve two rear yard gas appliances, a BBQ and a fire pit. Point A to C is about 30 feet; point B, branching out at a right angle is about 20 feet; Point A is the stubout location.]
1. Should the size of the U/G coated pipe be 3/4";
2. Do all fittings have to be wrapped?
3. If an existing installation needs to be repaired due to a leak, can plastic be used? If so,
where can I get some good information on plastic tubing, or is it called PVE?
4. Does a "plastic" installation require expensive tools?
<------ lives in atlanta metro area, does not know California code
I'm assuming the fire pit is going to have a log-lighter bar and be used just long enough to get the log fire going, right?Quote:
[First, the gas line is to serve two rear yard gas appliances, a BBQ and a fire pit. Point A to C is about 30 feet; point B, branching out at a right angle is about 20 feet; Point A is the stubout location.]
And I am also assuming the BBQ is a manufactured appliance with a properly ported NG regulator, as opposed to a brick and mortar direct feed monstrosity.
1. Should the size of the U/G coated pipe be 3/4";
3/4" should be sufficient if my assumptions are correct.
2. Do all fittings have to be wrapped?
Yes, they do.
3. If an existing installation needs to be repaired due to a leak, can plastic be used? If so,where can I get some good information on plastic tubing, or is it called PVE?
Considering the short distances and that the smallest roll of ductile piping is 100 feet, I would run it in black iron piping.
4. Does a "plastic" installation require expensive tools?[/QUOTE]
Any and all of the ductile piping material is outrageously expensive in a side by side, foot for foot cost comparison to black iron -- And yes, the tools needed are prohibitively expensive for such a small job.
Black iron isn't that bad for a DIY. Most places that retail pipe, cut and thread it too. A little pipe dope and check your connections with soapy water.
In atlanta, we can not run black iron underground. We use galvanized. There are others that use a yellow poly plastic pipe too. It is heat fused.
Doug,
In my area we are forbidden from using galvanized pipe for gas lines. The reason being that the gavanized could flake off the pipe walls with age and clog the orifice of a burner. However, since most of our heater installations are electric we don't much run into gas all that much. Regards, Tom
You can't even use the X-Tru pre-coated black iron piping below ground in your area?Quote:
Originally Posted by doug238
Florida must be an exception then, Tom.Quote:
Originally Posted by speedball1
Galvanized piping is used for below ground burial and masonary penetrations for NG delivery in about 99% of the US.
We're both correct growler,
As I said we don't install many gas heaters in my area. I spoke to two building inspectors from my area and both said black pipe indoors above ground is fine and glavanized "gas pipe" is also fine, and, mandatory if any of it is exposed to the elements (outside house). The inspectors told me that regular galvanized pipe (water) is not recommended because the gas will make the galvanized coating flake off over time. They said the "galvanized gas pipe" is made with a diffenet process and is flake proof.
The last time I piped gas was roughing in a bakery in a strip mall. I used type"K" copper for the rough. And that was 20 years ago. So you're correct, galvanized is used to pipe gas. It's just got to be a special gas galvanized. Regards, Tom
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