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We had some construction done in the basement, and had to remove the water heater and well tank. I reset the water tank, and replaced the water heater, but now I'm having a problem with less pressure at the faucets, than what the gauge at the tank reads. I was taking a shower, all proud of the job I had done, when the pressure decreased. At the tank, a small amount of water had came out of the pipe that goes into the tank, beside the regulator. Any advise would be appreciated.
First thing to do would be to remove an clean or replace all faucet aerators an shower head.
Tell us more about that. By regulator do you mean pressure switch?Quote:
At the tank, a small amount of water had came out of the pipe that goes into the tank, beside the regulator.
Yes, the water os dripping or blowing out of the pipe coming from the tank, between the pressure switch, and the pressure gauge.
Cleaned the showerheads and faucets, and that helped the pressure problem. I watched the pressure switch cycle from 40# up to 60# as my wife took a shower, and the water drips from the pipe when the pressure approaches 60#, then stops as the pressure decreases.
If that means that water is coming out of a joint, then you simply have a leak. Disassemble and remake connection using pipe thread joint compound. If that's not what you mean, then you must have a blow off valve and that may be defective.Quote:
water os dripping or blowing out of the pipe coming from the tank, between the pressure switch, and the pressure gauge.
Please clarify.
Thanks, I didn't know what it was called, but the pipe that comes from the tank, between the pressure switch and gauge. Never had this leak before the tank was moved. So, this blow of valve can be replaced, or would the 14 year old tank just be replaced?
Show us a picture.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cplayer
Not a blow off valve but may be a pressure relief valve. Do you have a bladder tank or a pressure tank.
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I have a welltrol wx202 that has is a bladder tank.
Don't know if the valve you show is a pressure relief valve but I think it is. Don't know if it is adjustable. Don't see how it could affect water pressure at the faucet.
After you reinstalled tank, did you check precharge air pressure.
Show picture of remainder of piping at the tank.
I didn't check the pressure at the tank. I reset the tank, and turned the water back on. Sounds like maybe I should have.Quote:
Originally Posted by cplayer
OK, let's do that.
First, nice neat basement. Not often you see things so easy to get to.
Let's check the tank bladder first.
Take note of what the cut off pressure currently is.
Turn off breakers to well. Depress and hold the needle of the air valve and let all the air out. You should get only air out. If you get water that would mean that you have a ruptured or leaking bladder.
I see you don't have a drain valve at the tank. Suggest putting one in. Turn off the master valve just after the pressure gauge, the cold water input valve to the water heater and the cold water valve to the remainder of the house. Cut the PVC pipe between the master valve and the 90 ell. Put in a PVC tee. You may be able to find a 3/4" PVC tee with 1/2" threaded side port. If not put in a 3/4x3/4x3/4 tee and glue in a 1/2"threaded bushing in the side port. Install a boiler drain or hose bib.
Open master valve and boiler drain. Pressurize the tank with enough air to push all the water out of the tank.
After tank is empty adjust air pressure to 2 lbs. less than the cut off pressure of the pump switch.
Turn on breakers, close drain valve and open master valve, cold water input valve to water heater, and cold water to house.
Before doing any of this you might want to consider this.
I can't really tell what size that tank is, looks to be about 20 or 30 gallons. The draw down capacity (the amount of water you can use before the pump comes on again) is probably between 7 to 10 gallons. After you have used the water in the tank, you are dependent on the pump for both pressure and volume. That might account for the drop in pressure while you were in the shower.
In other words, how long since you changed those filters on the wall? Could they be clogged and restricting the flow from the well therefore causing a drop in pressure.
I'm not familiar that pressure release valve, don't know why you would have it. Bureaucratic requirement probably. Logic says it should be adjustable. Try tightening what appears to me to be the end or cap. That should stop the leaking when system is close to cut off pressure.
I put these last thoughts at the end just to see if you read everything before starting.
I'll start at the end first. If that doesn't help, I'll make a trip to the hardware store Monday. As for the filters, they get changed one a month, but I did change them before I turned the water back on after my "improvements".
"Depress and hold the needle of the air valve and let all the air out. You should get only air out. If you get water that would mean that you have a ruptured or leaking bladder."
Why do that? I'd simply open a low level faucet and run until pressure on the gauge drops to zero, and then set the tank pressure. Turn breaker back on and you are in business. (Not arguing...just curious.)
But I don't think setting the tank pressure will solve this guy's pressure problem. Next time it shuts off at 60#, then check the tank pressure at that time from the valve at the top of the tank. It should also read 60. If it doesn't, then the pressure gauge is likely bad.
After draining the tank, the pressure gauge was reading 20# with no water or air. I replaced the gauge,and pressure switch, and added a cold water drain valve and cold water input valve. No drips or leaks. Thanks for the help!
Congratulations and thanks for the feed back. How is the shower?
John (jlisnbe)
Something strange going on here. Thought it best to go through the entire procedure to see what popped up.Quote:
Why do that? I'd simply open a low level faucet and run until pressure on the gauge drops to zero, and then set the tank pressure. Turn breaker back on and you are in business. (Not arguing...just curious.)
cplayer
Look at the old pressure gauge and switch to see if there is any signs of blockage in piping. Right now it sounds like there might have been.
Shower working great. All faucets working great. Yes, there was some mud or rust, or something that looked like that, in the 1/4" pipe that the pressure switch is. There also was in the tee where the gauge and switch is. Since I had compressed air there, I blew all of those openings out too. Thanks again, I know who to come to if, well, when I have another problem.
Everything makes sense with that information.
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