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-   -   2000 Honda civic EX, won't start in the cold (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=776562)

  • Nov 25, 2013, 11:13 AM
    Mista B
    2000 Honda civic EX, won't start in the cold
    Hi, I've got a Honda Civic EX 2000.

    She's old, but she's still rolling and I'd like to get her through another winter but she's being a bit stubborn.

    Now that it's cold again, she has trouble starting, so long as the it's fall/spring/summer weather she's all right but once it gets around freezing and she's been sitting for a while, she doesn't want to start. The problem actually started at the end of last winter quite suddenly, but as soon as spring rolled around I forgot about it cause it just wasn't an issue

    When I turn the key, I can hear the fuel pump kick in (the hum) and I changed the duel filter this summer, so from my understanding, the fuel supply isn't the issue. When I turn the ignition, she'll make the usual attempting to start noise and it sounds like the starting motor turns it over, but it just won't get going.

    So I figure it's electrical. The battery is new this summer as well, so it shouldn't be that. Any suggestions as to how to approach the trouble shooting, I haven't ever had to fiddle much with engine starting problems before. Any guidance would be appreciated, thanks!
  • Nov 25, 2013, 02:02 PM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Try replacing the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor, which affects fuel injector pulse width. The ECT Sensor is a temperature dependent resistor (thermistor), whose resistance decreases as the engine coolant temperature increases. It provides a richer mixture when cold, leaner mixture when hot. They become corroded, due to not changing the coolant frequently enough with a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water. The ECT Sensor has two wires going to it, while the Engine Temperature Sending Unit has only one wire. People often get these confused.

    If the problem persists, I would focus on the ignition system. First, be sure the spark plugs (NGK only) have been recently changed. Second, replace the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil inside the distributor, if they have not been changed in 125,000 miles or 10 years. I'm assuming you have a genuine Honda distributor housing. Be sure to apply a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM. Aftermarket distributors for Hondas are very problematic. If you have one, it could be the source of your problem. Let me know.

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