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-   -   Honda crx don't want to start (https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/showthread.php?t=77464)

  • Mar 30, 2007, 08:27 AM
    joecrx
    Honda crx don't want to start
    Hi can eny 1 help me with this problem
    I have honda civic crx 92 D16A9 some time don't want to start when it don't want to start I don't hear the fuel pump don't matter if its cold or hot.I leave it some time it works
    Main Relay 100% OK I tested it.ignition switch is new.
  • Mar 30, 2007, 08:43 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Your ECM may be failing and preventing the second relay in the main relay from closing. When this happens, the fuel pump won't run. Run the K-Test (see Sticky).
  • Mar 30, 2007, 10:49 AM
    joecrx
    OK
    How do I run k-test
  • Mar 30, 2007, 11:13 AM
    joecrx
    I fawned it
  • Mar 30, 2007, 11:56 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Here's how:

    The K-Test: Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start). Using a multimeter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector's reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it's probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt.
  • Mar 30, 2007, 02:21 PM
    joecrx
    Thanks
    Its late now ill do that tomorrow 1st thing and let u no
  • Mar 31, 2007, 02:05 AM
    joecrx
    Hi
    I did the k-test I'm reading 4.9volts. Dos that mean I have to chang ECM or thers a way to fix it
  • Mar 31, 2007, 09:56 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Your ECM pasts the K-Test and it shouldn't be the cause of your car not starting. I know you think your main relay is good, but if your fuses are good and your ECM is good, the problem is likely with the main relay. My advice is to resolder it or install a new one.
  • Mar 31, 2007, 10:19 AM
    joecrx
    Can the wire harness because the problem. I'm using bran new main relay I did this test it past

    Remove the main relay.
    Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 4 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the No. 8 terminal of the main relay. Then check for continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the main relay.
    If there is continuity, go on to step 3.
    If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
    Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 5 terminal and the battery negative terminal to the No. 2 terminal of the main relay. Then check that there is continuity between the No. 1 terminal and No. 3 terminal of the main relay.
    If there is continuity, go on to step 4.
    If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
    Attach the battery positive terminal to the No. 3 terminal and battery negative terminal to the No. 8 terminal of the main relay. Then check that there is continuity between the No. 5 terminal and No. 7 terminal of the main relay.
    If there is continuity, the relay is OK; If the fuel pump still does not work, go to Harness Test.
    If there is no continuity, replace the relay and retest.
  • Mar 31, 2007, 10:23 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    Bench testing a main relay doesn't mean much, since you don't have the ability to simulate the heat that causes bad solder joints to act up.

    From my experience, main relays should be replaced every 10 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. They are a very problematic component.
  • Mar 31, 2007, 12:13 PM
    joecrx
    Thanks that was very good help
    Ill try getting one of friends car and see how it runs or bye nother new one.
  • Mar 31, 2007, 03:26 PM
    joecrx
    Hi
    Ill try to get one of friends car or bye new one and see what happens
  • Apr 1, 2007, 03:21 AM
    joecrx
    Thanks that was very good help
    I got one from friend off his car gave him mine to try for one week
    When its running main relay gets very hot is that normal
  • Apr 1, 2007, 05:48 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    They will get pretty warm which, along with higher ambient temperatures, causes flaws in solder joints and leads to intermittent failure. I think it's a good idea to drill several ventilation holes in the top of the plastic cover.
  • Apr 1, 2007, 07:40 AM
    joecrx
    True its worm from the outside and hot inside
  • Apr 1, 2007, 08:05 PM
    hiperf402
    Go Back To School And Learn To Spell Correctly.
  • Apr 2, 2007, 02:42 AM
    joecrx
    English is not my language and I didn't learn english from shool. At least I have manners what you don't have I think you need a place to learn some manners.
  • Apr 5, 2007, 07:30 AM
    joecrx
    Hi txgreasemonkey
    I still have the same problem I'm confused
    When I swich it on I hear the 1st click after 8sec or more I hear the 2nd click with the fuel pump for 2sec and then it stops with 3rd click.after I let it run for 10min and then swich it off and start it its OK the Main Relay works as it has to
  • Apr 5, 2007, 09:08 AM
    TxGreaseMonkey
    I would run the K-Test and make sure your ECM is okay. Every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first, I recommend you replace main relays, igniters, coils, and even ECMs.
  • Apr 5, 2007, 12:36 PM
    joecrx
    Yes ill do that think I have to chek the main relay conecter
    Is the k- test enough to no if the ECM is okay

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