Son had car battery trouble. I have a brand new battery never used
Been sitting dormant for a year. Have a battery charger. Don't you think I should charge up the battery a bit. Then how long will it take with the car running to get a full charge. Will put the meter on
On both battery and alternator

I would charge for a couple of hours and give it a try. Once in the car, the alternator will do the rest.

If it takes the charge, I agree a few hours, and after that the car should do the rest.

Since it sat around unused, there is always a chance it may not take a charge

New battery did start but needs more charge. Another problem is the alternator
I put the meter on it. It showed 13.5 output the range is 13.8-14.8

Quote:

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Originally Posted by pastor1189

new battery did start but needs more charge. another problem is the alternator
I put the meter on it. it showed 13.5 output the range is 13.8-14.8

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That is a bit low but should be OK. That could be in the meter reading +/- 5%

Thanks ran the car in the carport , plus used a battery charger shows 4.00 amps
Battery is up to 12.1. I guess the alternator charges faster .

With an ammeter reading 4 amps, you should charge the battery for at least 4 more hours, prior to installation. Minimum static battery voltage should be 12.4 volts; regulated battery voltage should be 14 to 15 volts. It's likely you need to rebuild the alternator and install a new voltage regulator/brush assembly. On many alternators, this is an easy and inexpensive procedure. Remember, an alternator is a battery maintainer, not a charger.

Oh maybe the alternator only needs brushes. Garage wants to replace
The whole alternator

What year, make, model, and engine? On many alternators, the voltage regulator and brushes are part of the same assembly.

Example: Rebuilding Ford 4G Alternators

In most situations, if you want to save money or you are in a hurry, perform Steps 1 through 3; then, install a new regulator/brush holder assembly and replace the back cover.

1. Remove 3 screws (8mm) from the back cover.

2. Remove 3 screws (Torx T20) from the internal voltage regulator/brush holder assembly (Motorcraft 50U-10C359-AB).

3. Clean slip rings with #240 abrasive cloth. Ensure there are no grooves or ridges that will interfere with the brushes seating fully. Rotate the rotor and, using a file, carefully remove any ridges; finish with #240 abrasive clothe. This is one of the most crucial aspects of rebuilding an alternator. Many problems are directly attributable to the condition of the brushes and slip rings.

4. Test for continuity (ohms) between the slip rings, using a multi-meter. However, there should not be continuity between the slip rings and the rotor or rotor shaft. If the rotor fails either test, replace the alternator.

5. Remove pulley nut (24mm) and pulley.

6. Separate stator from the aluminum housing, using a flat blade screwdriver.

7. Test the rectifier's diodes (8) with a multi-meter. Current should only flow in one direction (forward bias). With the multi-meter set for diode testing, place the black test lead on the main terminal post (10 mm nut) that goes to the battery. With the red test lead, test each of the eight solder joints on the rectifier going to the diodes. The readings should be around 0.472 volts. If you reverse the test leads (reverse bias), the readings should be 0.0 volts. Replacement rectifiers are available, if any diodes are bad. If the diodes are good, the windings on the stator and rotor are likely fine. Diodes will normally fail, before there will be any burn damage to the windings.

8. Remove 3 screws (T20) from the front bearing retainer and remove bearing (NTN 6303-LLVA). This standard “303” bearing measures 17mm I.D. x 47mm O.D. x 14mm Wide. I substituted a Ringball RBL 6303-2RS bearing ($2.72), with a C3 radial clearance, to withstand the high heat.

Important Note: Alternator bearings normally use polyurea grease (dielectric), to prevent fire in case of seepage.

9. Clean aluminum housing and back cover with soap, water, and a scrub pad—dry with a soft cloth.

10. Install a new 6303 bearing in housing, replace retainer, and tighten three T20 screws. The temperature mounting techniques should help you do an awesome job and prevent damaging the bearings.

11. Press rotor shaft from stator.

12. Remove bearing (NTN 6203-LLH) from the rotor shaft, using a small puller. This bearing measures 17mm I.D. x 40mm O.D. x 12mm Wide. Ensure the new bearing also has a C3 radial clearance. The two bands you see on the bearing are not racing stripes--they are high tech tolerance rings, used to keep the bearing from spinning in the bore. Never reuse a bearing removed by a puller, due to the possibility of damage.

13. Press a new NTN 6203-LLH bearing ($2.57) on the rotor shaft, using the temperature mounting technique. Coat the outside of the bearing with a light coating of bearing grease.

14. Seat rotor shaft bearing in stator.

15. Assemble the aluminum housing and stator.

16. Install new voltage regulator/brush holder assembly (e.g. Taditel T815 or Transpo F796) and tighten the three T20 screws. Taditel is an OEM regulator manufacturer for GM, ACDelco, Remy, and Bosch, among others. Ford does not sell replacement voltage regulator/brush holders or any alternator components; therefore, you will have to go aftermarket. After installing an aftermarket voltage regulator, the alternator test machines at most auto parts stores will tell you the alternator "Fails." Output voltage will appear low (10 to 12 volts). Be prepared for this, even though the regulator is good and will work properly, providing 14 to 15 volts, once the alternator is installed in the car. Ask the provider of the regulator for special instructions on how to test it. D&V Alternator Testers, which are used by many rebuilders, will be programmed to test aftermarket regulators properly.

17. Replace back cover and tighten 3 screws (8mm).

18. Replace pulley, tightening pulley nut 80 lb.-ft.


Ford does not sell new 4G alternators. They only sell remanufactured alternators ($243.90), where they install a new voltage regulator/brush holder assembly. The old bearings and rectifier are not replaced. Therefore, rebuilding your alternator is clearly superior to, and less expensive than ($20.28), most remanufactured alternators on the market today. This is an easy, fun job.

Thanks for the advice on 2003 Toyota Echo

Looks like you should be able to easily remove the back cover and install a new voltage regulator/brush assembly. Shop around for a deal.

Beats me. 2003 Toyota Echo standard engine.
Car cranks up okay. Getting a jump started just in case