My 1990 honda Civic DX hatchback won't start. Now hold on lol I'm aware about the main relay problem, that isn't it. It used to be an intermittent problem on hot days or short trips, then it just stopped. I took the fuel pump out and tested it and it runs, I then replaced the main relay and then my car started and ran for 2 days. Then when I was driving it, it died on me but it started up while I was still rolling down the street like a turtle. I made it home, just to have the problem again. It will not start at all I don't know what I should do. The cel comes on and goes back off like normal and the main relay is clicking, but the fuel pump won't prime so my car won't start. Where should I begin? Im not very mechanically inclined so step by step help would be appreciated

. Check all under dash and under hood fuses with a test light or multimeter.

. Check the ignition switch for wear, pitting, or melting, after disconnecting the negative battery cable.

So disconnect the negative, and then I would take the fuses out and stick the test light in the slot?would the key have to be in the on position? I've checked all the fuses but I haven't actually stuck the test light in there. I'm not sure how to check the ignition switch but ill figure something out, a bad ignition switch would cause the pump to fail but everything else to work? Ill post back tomorrow sometime around noonish after I check things with the test light, thank you

I'm sorry cars are not my strong point but I'm learning a lot from this honda. I've seen a few of your posts here and there Tx and you seem very knowledgeable I feel lucky that you replied to my post I'm actually excited because you've helped a lot of people and I'm confident that I can get my car going with your help. Here it is 29 degrees outside and 4 am and tapping my foot waiting for sunrise so I can go out there

Ok well I grabbed a flashlight and checked my fuses with a test light. A runny nose and two numb hands later all the fuses I could check with a test light are OK. Except I'm not sure about a couple things. Fuses 11,10,8,5,4 wouldn't light up unless I turned on the cars headlights, that's what the fuses are for I'm sure that's normal, just double checking. And also my test light says the 30amp fuse to the heater motor is bad but looking at it looks fine. Do I need to turn something on then check it?? That wouldn't cause a fuel pump problem anyway though right?

Fuse Testing

1. Multimeter. Set multimeter to DCV, turn ignition switch to ON (Position II), touch the black test lead to ground, and touch the red test lead, in turn, to each test point on the fuse. The meter should record 12+ volts. Voltage must be recorded at each test point on a fuse; otherwise, the fuse is bad.

An alternative method, which is very fast, is to set your multimeter to audible ohms, DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL (or you could blow the fuse in the multi-meter), and touch the red and black test leads to the test points on each fuse. When you hear the meter buzz, you know the fuse is good. This is my favorite method. If your meter doesn't have audible ohms, but it does have ohms, you can still use this method--just read the meter instead. The alternative methods perform a continuity test on the fuse. Just remember to de-energize the circuits, by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and record any radio activation codes first.

2. Test Light. Turn ignition switch to ON (Position II), connect alligator clip to vehicle ground, and touch the probe to each test point on the fuse. The test light must come on at each test point on a fuse; otherwise, the fuse is bad.

These methods allow you to accurately and quickly check all under hood and under-dash fuses in several minutes, even in dark, cramped locations. They eliminate the possibility of removing and replacing the fuse in the wrong slot. Should a fuse test bad, use the fuse puller, provided in the under dash fuse/relay box, to remove it.

Important Note: Due to corrosion, it's not uncommon for fuses to be good but not pass current, particularly in trucks. In this situation, clean the fuse's contacts with No. 240 abrasive cloth, or steel wool, and lightly coat with dielectric grease. Ensure fuse boxes are "Military Ready" for any environment.

Does the CEL come on for 2 seconds and then go out every time, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II)? If the CEL stays on sometimes, it can indicate intermittent ECM failure. This affects the main relay and the fuel pump working properly.

Fuel System Troubleshooting

This is a two-part problem: 1) Determine if the fuel pump works, and 2) Determine why the PGM-FI Main Relay doesn't work properly.

If you don’t hear the fuel pump run, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II):

Problem 1: Determine if the fuel pump works.

1. Disconnect the main relay from the main relay connector. Jump main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7, turn the ignition switch to ON, and listen for the fuel pump in the gas tank. If you can hear the fuel pump run, which is usually the case, it is likely good and you should proceed to Problem 2. If it doesn’t run, go to Step 2.

2. Turn the ignition switch ON. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 5 and ground. If there’s not battery voltage, test/replace the ACG (ALT) (S) (15 A) fuse in the under dash fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the ACG (ALT) (S) fuse. Verify that you now have battery voltage to Terminal 5. If the fuel pump still doesn’t run, however, go to Step 3.

3. Check for continuity between main relay connector Terminal 7 and the fuel pump. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring. If the fuel pump still doesn’t run, go to Step 4.

4. Check fuel pump. Even though it's certainly possible, I have never seen a Honda fuel pump fail. They are very reliable. Clean connections and thoroughly test pump motor, prior to replacement. Before going any further, all efforts must be focused on getting the fuel pump to run (i.e. solve Problem 1 first), when main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7 are jumped and the ignition switch is turned to ON. If the main relay and fuel pump still don’t work properly together, however, go to Problem 2.

Problem 2: Determine why the PGM-FI Main Relay doesn’t work properly.

5. Check for continuity between main relay connector Terminal 2 and body ground, with the ignition switch OFF. If there’s no continuity, clean the main ECM ground, which is usually located on the thermostat housing. Look for 3 wires going to a brass connector. Remove the 10 mm bolt, clean with No. 240 abrasive cloth, and apply dielectric grease. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the main ECM ground. If there’s continuity, go to Step 6.

6. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 1 and ground. If there is not battery voltage, test/replace the ECM fuse (15 A) in the under hood fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wiring between the main relay and the ECM fuse. If there is battery voltage, go to Step 7.

7. Turn the ignition switch to START. With manual transmissions, depress the clutch pedal. With automatic transmissions, the gear selector must be in Neutral or Park. Measure voltage between main relay connector Terminal 6 and ground. If there’s not battery voltage, test/replace the STARTER SIGNAL (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If necessary, repair an open in the wire between the main relay and the STARTER SIGNAL fuse. Should the main relay and fuel pump still not work properly, go to Step 8.

8. Perform the K-Test on the ECM. Remove the MAP Sensor connector and turn the ignition switch ON (not start). Using a multi-meter, check for 5 volts going between the MAP Sensor connector’s reference wire (+) and ground. As you look at the connector, this is the socket on the right. Really press the black test lead into a cleaned main ECM ground on the thermostat housing. If the voltage is low, it’s probably indicating ECM failure. Most failed ECMs will record a fraction of a volt. To me, the K-Test is simple, elegant, and accurate. The ECM controls grounding to main relay Terminal 8, which affects when the second relay inside the main relay opens and closes. If the ECM cannot control grounding to the second relay, the fuel pump will not run. The only alternative is to replace the ECM.

SUMMARY OF MAIN RELAY PROBLEM AREAS:

Terminal 1--Test ECM fuse in under hood fuse box.
Terminal 2--Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.
Terminal 5--Test ACG (ALT) (S) fuse in under dash fuse box.
Terminal 6--Test STARTER SIGNAL fuse in under dash fuse box.
Terminal 7--Test continuity to fuel pump.
Terminal 8--Test ECM (K-Test).

Many hours of research, thought, and experience went into designing this easily understood approach to troubleshooting one of Honda's most complex systems. I consider this the most thorough coverage of this subject anywhere--it doesn't get any easier or better than this.

Thank you so much. I'm sorry but I have a stupid question, I want to jump the fuel pump and see if it works instead of taking it out of my tank again. How do you jump it though?? What equipment do I need?
Yes the cel light works properly and goes out, the main relay is clicking like normal. This is actually the 2nd time it has died died like this. Usually it happens because its hot outside and it'll start after awhile. But this isn't the case anymore. When this happened before I took the fuel pump out of the tank and tested it and it worked, so I replaced the main relay and voilà my car started... for 2 days. Now its doing it again but the relay is working fine. Should I test my pump again? And this might be a stupid question but can a bad distributor cause this problem?

Problem 1: Determine if the fuel pump works.

1. Disconnect the main relay from the main relay connector. Jump main relay connector Terminals 5 and 7, turn the ignition switch to ON, and listen for the fuel pump in the gas tank. If you can hear the fuel pump run, which is usually the case, it is likely good and you should proceed to Problem 2.

Use alligator clips on the end of a wire.

I understand that I need to jump the terminals. I'm really curious about what will happen when I do that. I'm sorry this is my first car and I'm learning as I go and I do appreciate your help, but what exactly do I do to jump the terminals? Do I need like a wire with an alligator clip at each end? Because I don't have one of those unfortunately

Greater than 90% of all crank but won't start situations are ignitions system related, not fuel. With Hondas of this vintage, you normally want to focus on the distributor. Usually, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. ICM failure accounts for many intermittent problems with the engine not starting or suddenly dying. If you decide to replace the ICM, be sure to apply heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM; otherwise, it won't last long.

OK thanks. Well I'm off to find a wire and see what I can do ill post what happens shortly

o.k.

Ohhh OK I was wondering about the distributor as well. Since I don't have anything to jump the relay terminals with right now I guess I will proceed to test for spark and check the icm and coil. Not sure how long this will take me but ill post the results as soon as I get them

I would do one thing at a time. I would finish troubleshooting the fuel pump and then move on to the ignition system. Here's how to replace the ICM and coil.

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) and Coil Replacement

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing these critical and problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.


1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.


Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps, generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the trigger signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor controls when the ICM "switches off" current to the ground wire of the primary coil, causing amperage to go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is "stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely when needed to fire each spark plug.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils take a beating.

Note: Distributor cap contacts can oxidize or corrode, creating high secondary resistance, which can result in rotor and ICM failure, reduced mileage, CEL coming on, catalytic converter failure, or failed emissions test. The secondary ignition system will destroy the ICM and coil, if you do not properly maintain the ignition system. This means replacing the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires every 60,000 miles.

WARNING: Intermittent ICM failure can allow fuel to build-up in the exhaust system. Detonation can then blow the exhaust system off the vehicle.

Ooook I went to test the spark plugs for spark... and 2 of them are saturated in oil... how? Why? Is this my problem?

I guess I just have too much oil so that's not my concern right now ill figure that one out after I'm able to test for spark and get my pump going

OK the spark plugs aren't sparking but both the coil and igniter are sparking. So would that mean I need a new distributor housing?

The oil is likely from deteriorated spark plug tube seals, which are in the valve cover.

How did you determine that the coil and igniter and sparking, but not the spark plugs? If true, that would indicate a problem with the distributor cap, rotor, or spark plug wires.