Ask Me Help Desk - 91 honda civic stalls

I have a 91 civic lx. Just replaced the spark plug and cables. It was working just fine. Two days ago it stalled. The check engine came on. It took a couple of tries but a started it up again. The next day it started up just fine, then about a mile for driving it stalled. Same thing happened. The check engine light came on. It took about 2-3 tries again but I started up. In that 1 mile span back home the car stalled 3 times. Each time it would take about 3 times for it to start back up.
All the times the car stalled the check engine light came on. If the car is idle on neutral it stays on. Only when I drive it does it begin to stall.

I haven't replaced the rotor and I know it needs anew air filter. Any other suggestions?

What codes are your computer flashing under the carpet on the passenger side... count the long flases and short flashes.

I haven't checked any codes.

If you get a check engine.. or service engine light... there WILL be codes flashing. From that we can see what the computer thinks is wrong to narrow it down..

Quote:

Originally Posted by smoothy

If you get a check engine..or service engine light.....there WILL be codes flashing. from that we can see what the computer thinks is wrong to narrow it down..

I will check it today. The check engine lightdoes not remain on. Once start the car the light goes away. Its when it about to stall that the light comes on. Thanks for your geed back by the way.

What's on the dash doesn't matter... you get about roughly 10 engine restarts before the codes clear on that older computer so there is a time limit to get them.

Its on the firewall up under the glove box.. pull that carpet back and you will see a gold anodized cover.. look for a plastic window in that cover.. thats where you will see the red led that flashes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by smoothy

WHats on the dash doesn't matter...you get about roughly 10 engine restarts before the codes clear on that older computer so there is a time limit to get them.

its on the firewall up under the glove box..pull that carpet back and you will see a gold anodized cover..look for a plastic window in that cover..thats where you will see the red led that flashes.

I will check in about an hour.

If the Check Engine Light consistently comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. Normally, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM. This is the ideal time to also replace the rotor and distributor cap, if they haven't been changed in 60,000 miles.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TxGreaseMonkey

If the Check Engine Light consistently comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out, when the ignition switch is turned to ON (Position II), then focus on the distributor. Normally, replacing the Ignition Control Module (ICM) and coil solves the problem. Apply silicone heat transfer compound to the back of the new ICM. This is the ideal time to also replace the rotor and distributor cap, if they haven't been changed in 60,000 miles.

check engune light only cime on after the car stalls. Once I turn the car back on the light goes away. Is the icm easy to install?

Ignition Control Module (ICM or Igniter) and Coil Replacement

Bench testing ICMs and coils is virtually useless. It does not come close to simulating the extreme heat that often causes these components to fail. I recommend replacing these critical and problematic components every 120,000 miles or 10 years, whichever comes first.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, recording any radio codes first.

2. Remove hex-head machine screws (3), securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8mm nut driver.

3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.

4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver. A 1/4-inch drive magnetic bit holder (e.g. Wiha 52650) with a #2 Phillips head bit works really well. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.

5. Remove rotor and leak cover.

6. Unfasten ICM wires, remove coil mounting screws (on distributors with a coil inside), and set coil aside. Trick: Removing the coil first, on distributors with a coil inside, improves access to the ICM.

7. Remove both screws securing heat sink to housing, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

8. Remove heat sink from distributor and unfasten both screws mounting ICM to heat sink, using a precision #2 Phillips head screwdriver.

9. Clean connections with #240 abrasive cloth or steel wool.

10. Coat the back of the new ICM (or old ICM, if reusing) with a thin, even coat of silicone heat transfer compound. This special silicone grease increases heat transfer to the heat sink. Failure to apply silicone heat transfer compound will cause the ICM to quickly fail. Arctic Silver 5 is recommended by an AMHD member, which is available at Radio Shack.

If the ICM and the heat sink are simply placed together, the small air gaps (insulator) that naturally exist between them will inhibit heat transfer. By filling these gaps, the compound allows a direct path through which heat can travel. Failure to apply this grease is one reason why some Hondas suddenly die. Attention to detail makes a big difference with modern day electronics.

11. Mount ICM to heat sink and reinstall ICM, ICM terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ICM connectors fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

Conceptually, the ICM is a large output transistor (switch) controlling current through the primary coil. ICMs replace points and condenser in older vehicles. In the primary coil, current builds to 5 to 12 amps, generating lots of heat (due to inductance). Then, the trigger signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor controls when the ICM "switches off" current to the ground wire of the primary coil, causing amperage to go to zero. When this happens, 12 to 14 volts in the primary coil is "stepped-up" to 30,000 volts in the secondary coil. This process creates a "type" of alternating current required for the coil (step-up transformer) to work. In a properly working ICM, timing is precisely when needed to fire each spark plug.

Bottom Line: ICMs and coils take a beating.

Note: Distributor cap contacts can oxidize or corrode, creating high secondary resistance, which can result in rotor and ICM failure, reduced mileage, CEL coming on, catalytic converter failure, or failed emissions test. The secondary ignition system will destroy the ICM and coil, if you do not properly maintain the ignition system. This means replacing the distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires every 60,000 miles.

WARNING: Intermittent ICM failure can allow fuel to build-up in the exhaust system. Detonation can then blow the exhaust system off the vehicle.