Following the sage advice found on this site in other postings, I managed to remove the misshapen, rusted waste pipe that went from my downstairs toilet to the horizontal main line (cast iron). So now I have a cleaned out bell and test fitted a neoprene donut from Lowe's (4" to 3") and plan on putting in a 3" PVC to the toilet. I'm a little concerned about the donut being tightly enough in the bell to prevent leaks.. should I use a neoprene caulk around the donut inside the bell to ensure a seal? Is there anything else I can do for peace of mind in this case?

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Originally Posted by seancy

Following the sage advice found on this site in other postings, I managed to remove the misshapen, rusted waste pipe that went from my downstairs toilet to the horizontal main line (cast iron). So now I have a cleaned out bell and test fitted a neoprene donut from Lowes (4" to 3") and plan on putting in a 3" PVC to the toilet. I'm a little concerned about the donut being tightly enough in the bell to prevent leaks.. should I use a neoprene caulk around the donut inside the bell to ensure a seal? Is there anything else I can do for peace of mind in this case?

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If it doesn't fit snugly when dry-fitted, then you likely purchased the wrong one.

It fits snugly, it just didn't require too much effort like I've seen people describine; i.e. I didn't have to cut any plastic off to make it work.

Hmmmm...

A) Does it fit snugly into the cast iron hub?

B) Did the 3" plastic fit in w/out a lot of cussing, yelling and pleading to the Deity?

When I inserted the donut first without the PVC inside, it went in more easily. When I tried to put it in with the PVC already inside, it needed a few taps with the hammer. Getting the PVC itself in required a hell of a lot of effort, so that part I'm not concerned about leaking

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Originally Posted by seancy

When I inserted the donut first without the PVC inside, it went in more easily. When I tried to put it in with the PVC already inside, it needed a few taps with the hammer. Getting the PVC itself in required a hell of a lot of effort, so that part I'm not concerned about leaking

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Sorry, but it sounds like you have the wrong one.

Since you bought it at Lowe's, what you have was probably manufactured by Fernco.

The one you want is a Ty-Seal manufactured by Tyler Pipe -- A Plumbing supply house should have the right one.

So I checked the one from Lowe's and its not manufactured by Fernco. Went to a plumbing supply, and they gave me the fernco one, saying they didn't have the Tyler donut. Came home and tried that, same story as the one from Lowe's. What exactly is different about the Ty-Seal over the Fernco? Is it just a different size or is it a different product altogether? Thanks again for all the help here.

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What exactly is different about the Ty-Seal over the Fernco? Is it just a different size or is it a different product altogether? Thanks again for all the help here.

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There were a number of different 'weights' of cast iron drainage pipe put out over the years.

The Tyler Ty-Seal is by far the most adaptable in accommodating these differences.

Could you upload a picture of the two you have?

Did you file the pvc pipe to a bevel so it would go in easier? Did you use some form of lubricant on it also?

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Originally Posted by doug238

did ya file the pvc pipe to a bevel so it would go in easier? did ya use some form of lubricant on it also?

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It went in too easy for even that, Doug.

Sounds like he has a 'service weight donut' and 'extra heavy weight' cast iron pipe.

The Ty-Seal gasket has a built in O-Ring that fits into the ring on the inside of the hub, I am not sure what the others look like but I do know that to get the gasket into the hub you have to hold it in your hands and squeeze in one size, slip it into the hub and then release, then you my have to work it a bit to fit into the hub, then the PVC is not easy to get in either. At one time I had a 25 pound lead hammer to drive a cast iron pipe into the gasket.